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More caster


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At high Freeway speeds my car behaves a little like you would expect when there's insufficient caster, which now that I finished my 5 speed conversion has come in to focus.  It is a little darty and has a slight tendency to wander.  Although I have more adjustment available with Ground Control camber plates, they run out of room at the back of the strut tower and so I'm limited to only 3 degrees on both sides (at least I know my car is nice and straight).  I would like to reach the 4.5 degree limit but I would settle for for a least 4.

 

Has anyone solved this problem?  I'm thinking of using a burr cutting tool to make a little space just for that rear plate locking screw on each side.  Kind of like but not exactly like how I marked up in the pic.

 

I've searched the caster subjects on here but they all end up being about camber.  TIA.

CamberPlate.jpg

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Can't answer the caster question, but what is your toe-in setting?

 

I have found that small changes can make a big difference.  When I changed from e21 steelies (5 1/2" x ET 18) to stock (5" x ET 29), I had to change the toe.  It felt wandery and floaty.  Now it goes nice and straight with no play... at the original stock caster setting.

 

I assume all of the steering linkage is tight... have you adjusted the steering box?  If so, how so?


Tom

     DISCLAIMER 

I now disagree with some of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book. 

I've switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results. 

I apologize for spreading misinformation.  

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I hear toe- in will help...

 

If you're running more than -1 degree camber, you start to need more toe- in for stability.

 

Caster can also be added by shortening the front tension rod by various nefarious methods, some of which involve a welder.

 

t

 

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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8 minutes ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

Can't answer the caster question, but what is your toe-in setting?

 

I have found that small changes can make a big difference.  When I changed from e21 steelies (5 1/2" x ET 18) to stock (5" x ET 29), I had to change the toe.  It felt wandery and floaty.  Now it goes nice and straight with no play... at the original stock caster setting.

 

I assume all of the steering linkage is tight... have you adjusted the steering box?  If so, how so?


Tom

Everything is new, including a very good rebuilt steering box, all completely rebuilt from the ground up with new wheels and tires.

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16 minutes ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

Now it goes nice and straight with no play... at the original stock caster setting.

 

 

Just want to point out that my caster falls short of the stock setting which is 3.5 - 4.5 degrees.

Edited by Robocopywriter
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I'd just take the car to alignment shop, They would be able to tell you whats going on, That's the one thing I did after putting my car together with Bilstein adj. coil overs and it drives straight as an arrow

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56 minutes ago, Robocopywriter said:

has a slight tendency to wander

Too much right foot! aka power steer.

 

on a serious note: play with front toe settings.

But then:

26 minutes ago, Robocopywriter said:

my caster falls short of the stock setting which is 3.5 - 4.5 degrees.

You mean your number is less than 3.5-4.5 deg? Even with top ends are drawn to direction it should be more than with oe tops?

2002 -73 M2, 2002 -71 forced induction. bnr32 -91

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Yes I know caster has effect to stability. What I meant it's usually not the issue causing wandering at speeds.

If it really is less than stock it might be the issue but then there must be something really wrong. I don't even remember typical caster values for -02, it's not discussed that often. Somehow I'm getting feeling it's not as much as 3,5...4,5 degs.

Racing is Life - everything before and after is just waiting!

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What is your toe setting now?

 

That is an easy adjustment to make by yourself and you can do it in less time than it takes to drive to the alignment shop.  It's true they have equipment to measure camber and caster as well, but it is a waste of money to go just for toe in.  I spent that money ($80) right after reassembling my front end and found that I had to tweak their toe setting to work better.

     DISCLAIMER 

I now disagree with some of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book. 

I've switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results. 

I apologize for spreading misinformation.  

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13 minutes ago, Tommy said:

Yes I know caster has effect to stability. What I meant it's usually not the issue causing wandering at speeds.

If it really is less than stock it might be the issue but then there must be something really wrong. I don't even remember typical caster values for -02, it's not discussed that often. Somehow I'm getting feeling it's not as much as 3,5...4,5 degs.

There is nothing "really wrong" it is just not up to what I want it to be.  See photo for specs from manual (1st highlighted line).  It is not discussed much here because on a stock car it is not adjustable.  And if I had to bet I would say most people on here are playing with excessive toe in order to compensate for the fact that their caster is off.

IMG_7261.jpg

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