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Robocopywriter

Chewed up Dshaft center bearings

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Can anyone tell me what causes this?  A few facts.

 

1)  The drive shaft center bearing was shot when I bought the car a couple of years ago.  And replaced.

 

2)  It has only been driven 1000 miles at the most since the replacement.

 

3)  The car was rear ended recently.  Damage was limited.  Body shop put the car on the frame rack and pulled it back.

 

4)  I did drive it, but very little, before it went to the body shop

 

4)  I have noticed vibration only since getting it back from the body shop (possibly not related and just coincidental).

 

Thanks.

IMG_6985.jpeg

IMG_6984.jpeg

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In the second pic it looks like something hit the center bearing and cut the metal surround.  How "old" was the "new" center bearing?  The way it is torn looks like the rubber was old and dried up.  When it was installed was it properly pre-loaded?

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IMHO

 

You'll know when you disconnect the center support.  If the diff has been pushed forward the support will forcibly try to drop to release the pressure and it will require force to hold it in (bolt on) position.   Easy enough to loosen the diff and move it back.  

 

I learned something a few years ago, from a Toby comment.  If the engine, driveshaft and differential have previously been removed from the car, bolt in the engine/transmission, driveshaft and CSB BEFORE tightening the diff to the rear subframe.

 

Confirm that the CSB housing is pre-loaded / slid forward 2mm. 

Confirm that the guibo is not distorted.

 

I agree that the CSB looks old and maybe just sagging and torn from age and abuse.

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As stated first off.  Center bearing was box fresh when it was put in and has less that 1000 miles.

 

The drive shaft is not the sliding center section type, so pretty difficult for the diff to move relative to the drive shaft.

 

It would be easier to move the center bearing (not the diff) since it has a slotted mounting.

 

The bearing was fitted properly and tightened down last after everything else, including the diff.

 

Thanks for all input.  I'm going with this cause: driving the car before it was repaired.  And probably pretty badly worn engine mounts.

 

 

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36 minutes ago, Robocopywriter said:

The drive shaft is not the sliding center section type, so pretty difficult for the diff to move relative to the drive shaft.

actually no.  the diff is slot mounted also.  if diff is jammed forward, could force the driveshaft to kink at the center u-joint, or deform the guibo, or shear the trans mount, or shear the engine mounts

 

37 minutes ago, Robocopywriter said:

It would be easier to move the center bearing (not the diff) since it has a slotted mounting.

see above. the center bearing slotting is to allow pre-loading of the rubber surround.

 

38 minutes ago, Robocopywriter said:

The bearing was fitted properly and tightened down last after everything else, including the diff.

"fitted properly"....assume this means it was preloaded forward?

 

39 minutes ago, Robocopywriter said:

And probably pretty badly worn engine mounts.

suggest replace engine mounts, trans mount and guibo at this point.

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My 2 cents-

 

it takes a pretty hard hit to move the diff.  If the repair bill was under $10k, and/ or did

did not involve a clip, it's pretty unlikely it moved.

 

It is also unlikely that the body shop messed with it.  Unless they had to.

They try not to.

 

That CSB looks ancient, for whatever reason.  It's also odd- the threads on the driveshaft

bolt look like it's been apart recently, but the rust on the shaft itself looks 'period correct'.

 

Without knowing what happened at the body shop, I think I'd just take it out, 

make sure the u- joints are OK, then try another, good- quality CSB and see what happens.

 

t

 

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Exactly.  The car was hit, not totaled lol.  Thank you.  Gradually removing all the period correct rust.  Hope it doesn't devalue the car.

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2 hours ago, Robocopywriter said:

Center bearing was box fresh

I + one friend have had these new bearing rubbers to fail pretty soon. Maybe these where from some old batch? Dunno but it has happened.

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Could it be that the engine/tranny combo is not properly aligned vertically? Rear seems too low or front too high. Was the car converted to 5-speed?

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Are the u joints clocked correctly even one spline off will cause the d/shaft to whip every revolution. 

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Just because it is "box fresh", it could have been on the shelf for 20 years,being passed from one failed parts distributor to another. It happens.  That carrier belongs in the Smithsonian.    I'd return it for a new one.

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