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Megasquirt EDIS RPM Help

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I've been troubleshooting a "no rpm" issue for a couple of days and I've run out of ideas. Here is the scenario: I have a MS2 v3 with Ford EDIS + VR / Toothed wheel. The issue is that Tuner Studio does not see any RPM signal in logger, no engine speed in gauges.

 

I have done the following:

 

- Followed and checked many times the assembly instructions for the "step 50, hall / optical" circuit 

- Tried both polarities on the VR sensor

- Have measured with a scope and can see square wave (PIP) from EDIS, connected to pin 24 on relay board (0 - 12v range)

- Configured TunerStudio for EDIS, etc following instruction here http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/EDIS.htm

 

I have a couple suspects and wondering if someone can confirm some things...

 

> First, it's not 100% clear to me where the label on the PCB is referencing for optoout, see annotation #2 in image. Did I do this correctly?:

"jumper OPTOIN to TACHSELECT on the bottom side of the PCB, near the DB37 connector, opposite the heat sink"

 

> Last, for troubleshooting, I wired a test jumper to pin 1 of the opto (#4). Shouldn't I see a square wave here since that is the purpose of (#1) to take the tach signal from pin 24 and send it to the isolator?

 

Thanks for any any ideas... just need something new to try ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ 

MS2V3PCB-back.jpg

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I've been troubleshooting a "no rpm" issue for a couple of days and I've run out of ideas. Here is the scenario: I have a MS2 v3 with Ford EDIS + VR / Toothed wheel. The issue is that Tuner Studio does not see any RPM signal in logger, no engine speed in gauges.

 

I have done the following:

 

- Followed and checked many times the assembly instructions for the "step 50, hall / optical" circuit 

- Tried both polarities on the VR sensor

- Have measured with a scope and can see square wave (PIP) from EDIS, connected to pin 24 on relay board (0 - 12v range)

- Configured TunerStudio for EDIS, etc following instruction here http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/EDIS.htm

 

I have a couple suspects and wondering if someone can confirm some things...

 

> First, it's not 100% clear to me where the label on the PCB is referencing for optoout, see annotation #2 in image. Did I do this correctly?:

"jumper OPTOIN to TACHSELECT on the bottom side of the PCB, near the DB37 connector, opposite the heat sink"

 

> Last, for troubleshooting, I wired a test jumper to pin 1 of the opto (#4). Shouldn't I see a square wave here since that is the purpose of (#1) to take the tach signal from pin 24 and send it to the isolator?

 

Thanks for any any ideas... just need something new to try ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ 

 

Firstly, ya speaking a language many here ain't gonna recognize with all them new fangled tech talk like isolator and DB37's .  

 

From my limited tinkering with EDIS running Megajolt lite controller was to get a signal to read on the in-dash tach I had to use a resistor inline out of the coil pack.  Me thinks this might be a case of call tech support at the brain box company.  

 

But what do I know

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(edited)

I had this same issue and found the crank sensor was wired backwards.  Make sure you have verified a signal out of the sensor.  I also had to buy new VR sensor, as the so called good used one wasn't working.  You may have already done that. 

FWIW,

Matt

Edited by Schnellvintage
typo,added info

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I had this same issue and found the crank sensor was wired backwards.  Make sure you have verified a signal out of the sensor.  I also had to buy new VR sensor, as the so called good used one wasn't working.  You may have already done that. 

FWIW,

Matt

Maybe I’ll try another sensor just to rule it out. 

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The MS forums may help you more than the folks here, although there is a lot of folks with MS.   I do have a good amount of experience with soldering motherboards, and no offence, but yours needs a little help.  I can see that some aren't complete, and others are messy with bits hanging off.  

 

Firstly, go through each and every solder joint to make sure the cavity is completely filled.   Secondly get one of these and check to see if any of the solder joints are bridged. 

 

 

 

image.png.84c397df15a64731404fd2ea2addbf7c.png

 

 

Is your board version 2.2 or 3.0?

 

Did you double check the hall sensor part in 50a?

 

To install the Hall/optical input circuit (or points without a coil connection):

 

  1. Install and solder R12 {390H-ND, 390 Ohm, ½ watt, orange-white-brown}. This is installed between the resistors you have just been installing and the CPU socket. This resistor should be mounted roughly 1/8" (3mm) above the surface of the PCB. Also, the value of this resistor may have to be changed if you trigger from the negative side of the coil depending on application - start with the supplied value, and if gets hot while the engine is running, then increase the value, in steps, up to 10K (like 470 Ohms, 560 Ohms, 680 Ohms, 1K, ...), or even more in some applications (consult the MegaSquirt Forums list for advice). However, do not adjust this resistor on assembly, unless you have a good reason to do so.
  2. Install and solder R13 {4.7KEBK-ND, 4.7k, yellow-violet-red}. This is located 3 places close to the heat sink than R12 (which you just installed).
  3. Install and solder C11 {399-4326-ND, 0.01µF, 103 marking}. This installs at the top of the row of 'vertically' oriented capacitors above "Bowling" in the copyright notice.
  4. Leave the C30 location empty - DO NOT jumper it.
  5. If you have a Hall sensor or optical sensor, do not install D1, put a jumper in its place. It is located beside R12, further from the heat sink.
  6. For most installations, diode D2 {1N4001DICT-ND, the marked 1N4001} is not needed. Do not install D2, install a jumper (made from a snipped off lead) in its place. It is located beside D1,  closer  to   the heat sink.
    Note: this diode (D2) is needed only if the ignition system has a large offset bias - most systems do not have such a bias. So, to start, you can either solder in a jumper wire in this location, or, you can install the diode D2, and then install a jumper around the two leads of the diode - in effect shorting it out. The latter will allow you to snip the jumper later on if needed, putting the diode back in circuit. Solder the diode in observing the banded end as on the board, then solder a wire jumper across the diode itself.
  7. Install/solder opto-isolator U3 {160-1300-5-ND, 4N25). This is located near the center of the PCB. If you have bought a socket (AE7300-ND or AE10021-ND ) for this component, solder it in place instead, then insert U3 into the socket.  Observe the proper orientation (notch matches PCB - towards the heat sink, or dot for pin #1 which is the square pad on PCB at the notched end of the silk screen). If neither are there, hold the chip so that the writing is facing you and the right way around. Pin #1 is on the bottom left.
  8. Leave the C12 location empty - DO NOT jumper it. This is located above "Bowling" in the copyright notice. This capacitor may need to be installed and/or the value increased if there are noise problems with the tach signal - values up to 0.1µF will work. The 0.001µF value is a good starting point.

If you later find you have an intermittent tach signal on the vehicle, but it doesn't work at all speeds or all temperatures in the car, check the Hall circuit modifications here: Hall input circuit mods

This input circuit is also used - with the modifications below - if you want to trigger off the negative side of the coil, since the points control the negative side of the coil's primary circuit. However, you can only trigger off the coil's negative terminal if you are NOT trying to control ignition timing. Do either 50a or 50b, not both.

 

Did you check this link?

 

http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/inputHEI.htm

 

Some other things to double check.  But I can't see everything.  From what I can tell you are good so far. 

 

V3.0 main board:

  • DB37 pin #36 to the SAW pin (#3) on the ignition module
  • DB37 pin #24 to the PIP pin (#1) on the ignition module
  • On the V3.0 main board:
    • use the 'Hall sensor circuit' (step #50.a in the assembly guide) - jumper D1 and D2,
    • jumper OPTOIN to TACHSELECT on the bottom side of the PCB, near the DB37 connector, opposite the heat sink,
    • jumper TSEL to OPTOOUT on the bottom side of the PCB, near the center.
  • jumper JS10 to IGN (this uses the processor port for the SAW signal directly),
  • jumper XG1 to XG2 on the bottom side of the PCB, near the 40 pin socket,

If you are using the relay board with a v3 main board:

  • the SAW signal connects to the S5 terminal (#11 on the 20 position terminal strip) on the relay board, it comes from DB37 pin 36 (make sure you have a wire connecting pin 36 to pin 36 in the MegaSquirt/relay board connecting cable),
  • the PIP signal connects to the Tach terminal (#15 on the 20 position terminal strip) on the relay board, it goes to DB37 pin 24.

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Thanks for the honest feedback and thoughtful response. Yes, my soldering could use a little love and checking for bridges is a good idea. 

 

I’ve been over 50a so many times I’ve lost count :) 

 

It’s a V3 board. 

 

FWIW, Earlier today I followed some advice from the diyautotune forum and tested the isolator and it is working properly- emits 5v when pin 24 is grounded and 0v when12v is applied. Almost temped to just buy an assembled version and chalk this one up to education. I’ll check it light you mentioned and we’ll see.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Thanks for the honest feedback and thoughtful response. Yes, my soldering could use a little love and checking for bridges is a good idea. 

 

I’ve been over 50a so many times I’ve lost count :) 

 

It’s a V3 board. 

 

FWIW, Earlier today I followed some advice from the diyautotune forum and tested the isolator and it is working properly- emits 5v when pin 24 is grounded and 0v when12v is applied. Almost temped to just buy an assembled version and chalk this one up to education. I’ll check it light you mentioned and we’ll see.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

What's your injector layout in the settings -> engine constants?

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Thanks for the honest feedback and thoughtful response. Yes, my soldering could use a little love and checking for bridges is a good idea. 

 

I’ve been over 50a so many times I’ve lost count :) 

 

It’s a V3 board. 

 

FWIW, Earlier today I followed some advice from the diyautotune forum and tested the isolator and it is working properly- emits 5v when pin 24 is grounded and 0v when12v is applied. Almost temped to just buy an assembled version and chalk this one up to education. I’ll check it light you mentioned and we’ll see.

Send a pic of the other side of your board.  Let us know what your "injector layout in settings -> engine constants ."  Something tells me you may have installed a diode backwards. It will be simple, it always is.   

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Cool... just making sure it wasn't set to sequential injection, which could cause no rpm to show up. Since it requires a cam signal to do sequential.

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Also, here's my Ignition settings. The instructions given don't line up 1:1 with the latest version of Tuner Studio, so maybe something isn't right? They say to do the following:

 

Trigger offset = 0° (this will vary slightly, depending on the wheel/pickup configuration),
Ignition Input Capture to 'Rising Edge', ('Falling Edge' for MicroSquirt® only if using the VR input circuit - not recommended),
Cranking Trigger to 'Calculated',
Coil Charging Scheme to 'EDIS',
Spark Output to 'Going High (Inverted)', ('Going High (Inverted)' for MicroSquirt).
Trigger Wheel Teeth to '0' (zero)

Screen Shot 2020-01-12 at 8.55.07 PM.png

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What's that "Cam Input" setting? Are you sure that should be enabled? Unless you gutted the distributor, you probably don't have a cam sensor?

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