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Rear view mirror, driver's door issue.


Scottjeffrey

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I have reached the point of having to concede that the set screw holding my mirror on is not going to come loose. Weeks of penetrating fluids and different screwdrivers and different hands, lol have gotten nowhere with it. I took the door panel off hoping for an easy solution from inside but it appears that is not the case. I see the two bolts protruding into the door through a 'something' but even If I take the glass out it doesn't appear to be a clean remove and replacement. So before I start drilling the set screw out ( I am loathe to undertake it; the screw looks like to do a good job you would need a drill which is super thin to avoid interference with the door and might end up with a hole at an angle which isn't how it is supposed to be. So, before I start with the drill, any ideas or magical incantations?

Many Thanks,

Scott

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Yes, cover the area behind the mirror base with blue tape followed by a couple of layers of duct tape to prevent the drill chuck from leaving you a reminder of the excellent job your going to do.

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If everybody in the room is thinking the same thing, then someone is not thinking.

 

George S Patton 

Planning the Normandy Break out 1944

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Great idea Nick if you have a pencil tip soldering iron it's sure worth a try. As we used to say in the tug boat biz "thats second deck thinking there son".

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If everybody in the room is thinking the same thing, then someone is not thinking.

 

George S Patton 

Planning the Normandy Break out 1944

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Just went through this with a friend's car.  What I ended up doing was to very carefully insert a thin putty knife blade between the mirror gasket and the door.  This was a ratty old door so we weren't worried about the paint--you should put down several layers of masking tape on your paint before you insert the putty knife blade.  Then gently pry up with the putty knife, and see if you have enough space to insert a thin screwdriver blade between the putty knife and the mirror gasket.  Pry up with the screwdriver blade; it's bearing against the putty knife so you're spreading the load so as not to dent the door.  While doing this, pull back on the mirror base.  Pry a little at a time, and chances are the mirror will pop off its bracket.  The bracket is pot metal and the set screw is steel, and in my experience the set screw will have chewed a little notch in the bracket where they touch, and a little upward prying will pop the set screw over the notch in the bracket.  

 

Once you have it off the car, it'll be much easier to drill out the old set screw, but that's tricky too.  Try center punching the screw remains and start with a very small bit to keep the hole centered.  Gradually use larger bits; if you're lucky it'll eventually come out.  If not, it's a 6 x 1 mm thread, so re-tap the hole.  If 6 x 1 doesn't catch, use a 1/4" x 20 tap and get an appropriate stainless steel allen head set screw.  We were lucky and able to re-tap the hole with a 6 x 1 mm tap.  

 

mike

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'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
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Just went through this with a friend's car.  What I ended up doing was to very carefully insert a thin putty knife blade between the mirror gasket and the door.  This was a ratty old door so we weren't worried about the paint--you should put down several layers of masking tape on your paint before you insert the putty knife blade.  Then gently pry up with the putty knife, and see if you have enough space to insert a thin screwdriver blade between the putty knife and the mirror gasket.  Pry up with the screwdriver blade; it's bearing against the putty knife so you're spreading the load so as not to dent the door.  While doing this, pull back on the mirror base.  Pry a little at a time, and chances are the mirror will pop off its bracket.  The bracket is pot metal and the set screw is steel, and in my experience the set screw will have chewed a little notch in the bracket where they touch, and a little upward prying will pop the set screw over the notch in the bracket.  

 

Once you have it off the car, it'll be much easier to drill out the old set screw, but that's tricky too.  Try center punching the screw remains and start with a very small bit to keep the hole centered.  Gradually use larger bits; if you're lucky it'll eventually come out.  If not, it's a 6 x 1 mm thread, so re-tap the hole.  If 6 x 1 doesn't catch, use a 1/4" x 20 tap and get an appropriate stainless steel allen head set screw.  We were lucky and able to re-tap the hole with a 6 x 1 mm tap.  

 

mike

Hi Mike, Great ideas. Many thanks!

Scott

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Just a thought..what about using the tip of a soldering iron to super heat it up and then try to loosen it?

NYNICK!!!!  You're the man!!! Got out my soldering iron and viola!!!!  I really can't thank you enough. It was thrilling when I heard the squeak of the set screw beginning to move!  83194486_10220953164400328_4872429286784499712_n.jpg.c764b53d3a04c61c982f8d0f1e7f7000.jpg

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Awesome. For the record, I pulled that idea right out of my butt. All those rookie hours in my garage trying to figure stuff out yields inventive solutions I guess.?

 

I hate that mirror attachment method btw. So stupid.

 

Congrats!

Edited by NYNick
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1974 2002 Tii-SOLD

1978 911SC Coupe

1988 Landcruiser

2020 M2 CS

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Great!!

 

Now the fun starts - you take the door cards off only to find they need new cardboard :) and that the round plastic piece that covers the vent window knob is mangled as the PO didn't know how to take it off .. the joys or our cars... 

 

P.S. my best investment last year was the Bolt Buster - heat induction tool - couldn't use it for this job but its great for rusty nuts of all shapes and sizes...  

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