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Air Filter Lid/Cover Gasket - What do I use?


JWT

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Good morning and happy New Year!!  Can someone lead me to what gasket material to use for my filter cover/lid on my 1600?  Basically item (2) in the drawing.  I searched for some answers but only came up with Weber carb mods, etc.  The drawing is generic...I have the four clamps on my lid but that's not important I thought.  Any suggestions are appreciated, thank you!

 

 

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Edited by JWT
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3 minutes ago, Hans said:

If the original is NLA, I'd get some thin closed cell foam tape and see if it will fit. Otherwise a large square of adhesive backed thin foam sheet and cut one out.

Yes, sorry...it is NLA.  Part No. 13711250111.  I was thinking of that as well and will just amazon some skinny stuff and try it I suppose.  Wasn't sure if anyone had done a re-pop of this part or not.  Probably not really the most lucrative of parts to reproduce and sell. Ha.

Edited by JWT
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BMW put a gasket top and bottom for a reason I expect. Not that big a deal to make something. I found an industrial foam place near me and the did a "cash" sale for a square of thin (less than 1/8") adhesive backed foam to make some similar gaskets. Closed cell is best

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Hal is correct butt If you want to have a flexible seal, I recently sealed some concrete cracks with a sealer that is gray colored and very firm after curing but flexible.  Squirt some in the lid groove, smooth with a wet finger and let it cure.  Bought it a Home Depot.  Check the tube for oil/grease resistance.  i used all of what I bought, so I don't have a tube to check.

Edited by jimk
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A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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Originally the seal was a giant rubber O-ring, NLA as per previous posts.  However...a good substitute is at your local hardware store.  Go to wherever they have supplies for repairing window screens, and buy a length of "screen spline"--it's a round cross section rubber (sold by the foot) that's used to hold fiberglass screen material in its aluminum frame.  Get the largest diameter spline you can find and it should give you a good seal.  Join the ends with glue or tape, or simply glue to the underside of the air cleaner lid.

 

And BTW, an air filter for most any 6 cylinder GM car (other than the Pontiac Sprint) from the 60s is a near perfect replacement for the OEm air filter cartridge for all 1600/2002 one barrel carb air filters...

 

mike

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'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

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9 minutes ago, mike said:

Originally the seal was a giant rubber O-ring, NLA as per previous posts.  However...a good substitute is at your local hardware store.  Go to wherever they have supplies for repairing window screens, and buy a length of "screen spline"--it's a round cross section rubber (sold by the foot) that's used to hold fiberglass screen material in its aluminum frame.  Get the largest diameter spline you can find and it should give you a good seal.  Join the ends with glue or tape, or simply glue to the underside of the air cleaner lid.

 

And BTW, an air filter for most any 6 cylinder GM car (other than the Pontiac Sprint) from the 60s is a near perfect replacement for the OEm air filter cartridge for all 1600/2002 one barrel carb air filters...

 

mike

 

I know exactly that screen material..that is a very good idea.  I will try that first.  I like the fact that a seal goes in there just to mitigate any fumes and/or make a nice tight seal inside the filter box.  Great info as usual by all.  Also good info for my one barrel Solex air filters!  although....if I am a stickler for a NLA gasket I will have a hard time using a GM air filter !!  To my own chagrin of course....haha. 

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2 minutes ago, JWT said:

I will have a hard time using a GM air filter !!  To my own chagrin of course....haha. 

I won't tell if you won't!  I've been using those GM filters since about 1977 or so...

 

mike

'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

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21 minutes ago, mike said:

Originally the seal was a giant rubber O-ring, NLA as per previous posts.  However...a good substitute is at your local hardware store.  Go to wherever they have supplies for repairing window screens, and buy a length of "screen spline"--it's a round cross section rubber (sold by the foot) that's used to hold fiberglass screen material in its aluminum frame.  Get the largest diameter spline you can find and it should give you a good seal.  Join the ends with glue or tape, or simply glue to the underside of the air cleaner lid.

 

And BTW, an air filter for most any 6 cylinder GM car (other than the Pontiac Sprint) from the 60s is a near perfect replacement for the OEm air filter cartridge for all 1600/2002 one barrel carb air filters...

 

mike

 You say “near perfect”. Care to expound?   Not trying to be a jerk, just curious.


The supposed correct replacement filters I’ve put purchased from auto parts stores leave something to be desired (loose center register, too thin to seal against the lid or so thick that you to exert extreme force to cam over the latches). In one case the filter I received (in a Beck Arnley box fwiw) the top and bottom plates were made of a hard plastic, not a soft foam. No hope of that sealing...

 

It’s clear to me that the bean counters are having their way in the manufacturing departments. So many parts now are “close enough” and no longer “correct” because someone saw that these 2 P/Ns are dimensionally “pretty close” on paper. “Let’s make ‘em the same part” “We’ll save a ton”... 

 

*steps off of the crate muttering to himself*

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Like the creativity on some of these ideas. But does anyone know how these ideas will hold up with the heat in the engine compartment?

 

Loose: Not tightly bound. Subject to motion.
Lose: What happens when you are spell check dependent.

 

1975 Malaga. It is rusty but runs. Just like me. 

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This is the first thread I have ever seen on this topic.  I've gathered a few lids with that gasket missing and I don't think it makes too much difference.  The metal to metal fit is really pretty tight and any air that might get through there is going to go through the filter. 

 

If you're someone who's painted your assembly, you will appreciate the gasket.  It keeps the parts from chafing.  It also helps with sound dampening the "air silencer".  Pound on the top of a clipped down lid and it is a very dull thud.  I love snapping the lid down, with those wire-bent spring-clips.

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I don't think there is room for a rOund rubber strip.  The original stuff is more like neoprene and quite thin.  

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As for the filter itself, my car came with an off-brand filter that was similar to the crappy ones Jake describes.  Then I found a MANN filter in an air cleaner housing I bought and it won my appreciation.  The rubber is much thicker and softer, with a ridge around the top and the bottom.

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In the two barrel housings, there is a little rubber plug that is a cushion between the filter and the fuel pump. 

004.thumb.JPG.afcc35ff13e86153e7f026b2cfd680c4.JPG

The top of the plug sticks up (too far) and poked a hole in the underside of my old filter rubber.  (this one has been ground down)

003.thumb.JPG.b358a3c5c73c058982c93962bf2dd8af.JPG

This filter has much better clearance, with the ridge on the bottom.  I am now a FAN of the MANN filters.  

 

Tom

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     DISCLAIMER -- I now disagree with much of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book as timing maps for our engines.  I've also switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results.  I apologize for spreading misinformation. 

(3-28-2024)  

 

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Mannfor ~ $12-$14

 

Hengst for ~ $26

 

Genuine BMW for ~ $28

 

I guess I have the cheapest of the nicer ones.

I blew a little dust out of it today. :) 

     DISCLAIMER -- I now disagree with much of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book as timing maps for our engines.  I've also switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results.  I apologize for spreading misinformation. 

(3-28-2024)  

 

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I had no idea there was ever supposed to be a seal there! I'll have to look more closely on the underside of my 1-barrel lid, but it's a tight fit without it. 

 

And my filter housing also has the rubber bumper for the fuel pump, although the pump I have on there now sticks up too far and causes the air cleaner to hit the underside of the hood... 

 

Since my housing is stamped "PUROLATOR," I generally used that brand while they were available from my local parts stores. But now that they and M10 oil filters are no longer regular stock, I've switched to adding an extra Mann or Mahle filter of one sort or other to my online orders when helpful to get free shipping. 

 

-Dave

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Colorado '71 2002

'17 VW GTI Sport
'10 Honda Odyssey Family & Stuff Hauler

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