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Wallace


majdomo

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Small update - sourcing a 4 speed trans from a 73 locally for cheap. Will have that on hand to swap with a clutch job / driveshaft refurb later. I think my clicking is coming from the clutch fork, need to take off the trans to get to it... and the current trans is pretty hosed... and this one is cheap and it’s like, close, so...

 

Scope creep!!

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You did try adding some grease to the end of the push rod, right?

Mine started clicking and TobyB offered that advice and it did fix mine.

 

Not wanting to slow your momentum though.  Go man Go!

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     DISCLAIMER 

I now disagree with some of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book. 

I've switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results. 

I apologize for spreading misinformation.  

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No... I didn't do that yet, mainly bc it doesn't look like it's coming from the end of the rod, it feels like it's coming from inside the trans or maybe even the slave cylinder. And because I'm a masochist and yeah, I can TOTALLY do a transmission by myself, on jack stands, right? RIGHT??? :)

 

Point well taken, I should just shut up and give the easy thing a go, though....

Edited by majdomo
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The easiest thing is to dribble or shoot a little oil in there and I'll bet that does it.  Grease will be a longer lasting solution. 

 

I was relieved that it was such a simple fix.  

 

Don't shut up... please keep the updates coming.  

  • Like 1

     DISCLAIMER 

I now disagree with some of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book. 

I've switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results. 

I apologize for spreading misinformation.  

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When I did overhaul of my'74 some time back I pulled the engine out and went to replace the clutch. when I got the clutch fork out of the housing I discovered that the pivot pin in the bell housing had the nylon pivot surface cracked...I ordered and replaced the pivot pin after much MAPP heat to the area in the bell housing and twisting and levering of the pin.  That might be the source of your fork slop.  Be sure to check the condition of the bearing in the flywheel.  Given the other bits your have already had to replace, if last clutch job was a hack job there could be bad or missing bearing... Mine was missing.... 

  • Like 1

CarlkkinMadCity

'74 ex-malaga 8 yr. driving restoration

4-spd, recaros, front bbk, I.E. bars+.s.exhaust. heater refurb(thanks Kieth), total motor rebuild 175 mi ago

(thanks Steve P., Jeff I.)

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The clutch click is more irritating than anything and probably not even worth worrying about. Going to try out the grease trick first and go from there... however I’m still picking up that transmission this weekend. It’s too close to pass up. I can find room in the garage for it, totally. Plus, the guy I’m buying from needs some inspiration to keep going with his electrified ‘02 project. His wife said that if this motivates him to start work on the car again (after 4 years of sitting), she’s buying me a pony. And I need a pony. So.

 

Good thing my wife doesn’t go on this board. :)

 

Waiting on the last batch of suspension hardware from Walloth Nesch to turn up on Friday, then can get going on that big project. Woot!

Edited by majdomo
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Alrighty... old and busted:

 

FC2C4EE8-3FC1-461C-B788-B85D870AB30D.jpeg

 

vs new hotness:

 

8CDB1914-CB4E-4200-9A56-EF2CF2674CDB.jpeg

 

Also got the trans today, so that’s waiting for me here. Not sure if I should store it this way, but it fits in the space I have for it for now...
 

A79498AB-5EC6-45AF-8676-D03F33DCE52D.jpeg

Impressed with Walloth Nesch, received an entire catalog of their stuff... unfortunately it’s for an E24, but it’s the thought that counts! Also, had the fun surprise of thinking I’d ordered a couple of those giant bolts that secure the control arms to the subframe, but then realizing I forgot to add them when ordering at 2am. Will give the existing ones a try, they just look really dirty. 

 

Edited by majdomo
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Started on the front end today. Spent the whole day out in the garage, pulling off parts and cleaning others. Went very slow, got everything off the passenger side and ready to go for install tomorrow. Finally had to quit when I ran into the dreaded outer control arm bushing...that f*cker does NOT want to go in, will be taking both sets to a shop tomorrow and have them pressed. Pulled the outer tie rod and got the lower ball joint out of the pitman arm, which took some doing. Created a small divot in my brake disc when I got a little overzealous with the pickle fork, which probably means I should get a new one (awesome). Driver's side should go way faster, but may not get it all done tomorrow.

 

Heading out to IE in the morning to get a gland nut wrench, the one I have for the E30 won't work. Also going to pick up some new hardware for the sway bar end links, the ones on there are way rusted and busted. Big honkin' bolt from the control arm had some surface rust, but the die grinder and a wire brush made quick work of that.

 

Made many many many many trips to the hardware store BUT had a blast pulling busted, rusty, dry, hosed up crap off the car and getting ready to install some fresh bushings, bearings and strut inserts. Got after it this morning before getting started... I think this car is faster than the E30...!

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Oh my. Best laid plans today.

 

Started good enough - got my control arms and bushings together, took them down to the local machine shop ("we should be able to do this, no problem...") and then went along my merry way down to IE. While there, I get a call from the tech at the machine shop - "your control arms still had the outer part of metal from the old bushings, so I took one out, but I can't seem to get the bushing to go in!" WTF. Since I'm literally at the counter at IE, I ask them to bring me one of their control arms to take a look. Sure 'nuff, there's a metal sleeve inside each bore, as they come factory. Duh. This asshat at the shop has now completely f*cked my control arm. I buy my end link hardware and the gland nut wrench, and I'm about a minute down the road when I have a sneaking suspicion that I'm not going to get to use stock rubber on this project, so I head back and buy a full set of poly bushings as an insurance policy.

 

Get back to the shop, and he's totally wrecked the control arm and one of the bushings. The inner sleeve from the outer bore is a mangled mess, as is the bushing he tried to force into the bore...without the inner sleeve. "I swear it just popped right out!" Well, yeah, if you go at it with a screwdriver and some pliers, moron. Fortunately, he started working on the one where I had the inner already set, so the other arm was still intact. I retrieve my intact arm, take it home and tell them to try and find a replacement for less than $300 (Guess what - doesn't exist. F*ing idiots.)

 

I get started on the other control arm, and insert the poly bushings. Still a really tight fit, takes some persuasion from my BFH but I get those all set. I finish assembling the strut, install the inner side of the outer tie rod, and then do my fancy safety wiring while on the workbench. I also tried my luck and pulled the idler arm bushing from the subframe. Took some work with a drill, a mat knife, and some channel locks, but that finally comes out. Poly goes in to that bore with no issue. Finally, I get a call from the shop who hosed my control arm, and they said for me to come down and get some cash as a replacement. I got $240 out of them, figuring that the $60 is good karma since they did spend time trying to find a replacement and doing work, even if it ended up hurting them.

 

So now I have a full strut assembly and complete control arm ready to install. I also spent some time hitting the tension arm with the die grinder and some spray enamel, so those look good and match up to the other hardware under the car.

 

Frustrating day, now I'm off to find another replacement control arm....

Edited by majdomo
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Ok. Finished the passenger side today. Had a very serious case of stupid when trying to put everything back together, spent over an hour trying to figure out how to get both the tension arm and the big bolt for the control arm to line up and not bind. Solution - make sure that the top nuts are tightened down somewhat, and that the tension arm is tightened up (not torqued), so that the big bolt just lines up easily. Things went much easier after that.

 

Finished out the day by tearing down most of the driver’s side. Everything is apart and cleaned except for the strut housing. Reassembly should go a lot faster now that I sort of know what to expect. Downside is that the wife is very irritated by my being “gone” all day. 

 

On the other hand, it’s not like we were going to do much, so.

 

Anyone ever use those toe plates you can get on Amazon? Do they work ok? Thinking of buying a set to do my own alignment. Tired of having to haul it down and pay $80 just to have someone spin the tie rods and line them up. If there’s a good way to do it at home, I’ll probably give it a try.

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If you are installing control arms with rubber bushings, you need to have weight on the wheels before tightening the fasteners.  The rubber bits want to be in the loaded position, so they are not being twisted when at rest.

 

Toe in is easy to do at home.  I made a couple of wooden straight edges and attached one to each wheel.  I like them better than plates, because they do not require a flat floor and they reference the tire above the bulge at the bottom.  Here's a thread on the topic.

 

 

  • Like 1

     DISCLAIMER 

I now disagree with some of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book. 

I've switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results. 

I apologize for spreading misinformation.  

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Share on other sites

10 hours ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

If you are installing control arms with rubber bushings, you need to have weight on the wheels before tightening the fasteners.  The rubber bits want to be in the loaded position, so they are not being twisted when at rest.

 

Toe in is easy to do at home.  I made a couple of wooden straight edges and attached one to each wheel.  I like them better than plates, because they do not require a flat floor and they reference the tire above the bulge at the bottom.  Here's a thread on the topic.

 

 

Thanks! Using poly bushings, but still set the car down for the final tightening on the bushing fasteners. I don’t think they need preload as the center is not attached to the outer poly bushing, but did it anyway. 
 

Thanks for the link on the toe sticks. I’ll probably run down for some tape measures and my own sticks later to give it a try. We’ll see how far I get today, aiming to have it all buttoned up by end of the day. 

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