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Wallace


majdomo

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Ongoing sort-out - brakes are done. Rear drums came off with a little liquid persuasion, but nothing crazy. Brake shoes looked in ok condition, so kept those for now but will hang on to the new set I bought yesterday. Impressed by how easy the rear brakes are to adjust, wish the rear drums on my 2001 4Runner was that simple!

 

I pulled the bib off the brake booster a few days ago, and just to be curious I clipped some paper towel to the end of a long pair of very thin, narrow locking pliers and swabbed the bottom inside of the booster. It came back out soaking wet with brake fluid and rusty crud. Not even chancing it, pulling the master and booster tomorrow, and will see if I can run the booster down to IE for a rebuild if I get cracking on it early. Spent some time pulling fluid from the system at each wheel, I am not going to have a repeat of yesterday's brake fluid baptism under the car when I take out the master. Plus going to Duarte gives me a chance to check out Super Burger in Pasadena, been trying to get over there all holiday break. :)

 

Ended the afternoon on a high note, though. PB Blaster did its thing and got the clutch slave to spin using a big pipe wrench, then my big pair of Channel Locks. Hit it again with PB and will let it sit overnight, which means I should be able to get that swapped out tomorrow, if I'm lucky.

 

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Good progress today. Started early and pulled the brake master cylinder and booster from the car. Master cylinder took about 10 minutes, booster a little longer because of those bottom two bolts. What a pain, reaching up from under the car to almost the top of the engine bay.

 

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Finally got the bastard free. Hard to see but the bottom of the diaphragm is all wet.

 

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On to the slave cylinder, this time it came out! Started by tapping it from the back with a hammer, driving it toward the front of the car. Eventually cut off the old dust boot and pulled the little shaft to reuse on the new slave cylinder. Was careful but still did a little mushrooming on the end where I was tapping. Got some sandpaper and sanded that flat again to continue. Once it got flush with the housing, I grabbed a drift and tapped it through. After a while it finally popped out. Let me tell you how I really feel about it...

 

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Happiness is an empty (and intact!) bore:

 

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New one installed fine, zero issues. Not crazy snug exactly like the old one, but will be good once I get new circlips, the old ones broke as I tried to pull them off. I put one back (not totally slid into the groove) just to hold it in place while waiting for new ones.

 

Packed up the old booster for the trip out to IE! Never been, geeked out a little. I expected to leave my old booster for rebuilding, but they had one in stock so got to take that home, gave me something to do this afternoon.

 

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And installed, I already moved the bib to point toward the left side of the car. Just means I need to buy a new vacuum line, should probably replace that anyway.

 

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Most importantly, got to Super Burger for mass quantities of burger goodness. Burgers are awesome, sides are just ok. Good for a dive-y burger fix.

 

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Happy New Year!

 

So to finish things out this week, I really wanted to get the window regulator fixed. I took off the driver's door card (held on by exactly two screws and no clips - super warped and no plastic rain guard underneath, perhaps not surprising, may buy Aardvarc's rebuild kit) and found the tension spring for the regulator at the bottom of the door. Not suppose to be there...and neither was the slotted pot metal part that holds the spring in place as the regulator moves up and down. Huh.


Pulled the regulator out, bought some bolts to do the repair (once for practice, once for...practice) and fashioned up some replacement bolts to get the regulator fixed up. On the first try, I Dremel'd the "flat spots" on the bolt perpendicular to the slot on the head; on the second try, I made them up in parallel. I tried it both ways mainly because my slotted part was way too gnarled to tell which way it should work.

 

Took some doing, but finally got the spring working the way it's supposed to...only to find the teeth on the regulator at the top of travel to be too flattened out to keep tension. The first time, I just thought I hadn't put enough tension on the spring (it has very little tension as installed, if at the bottom of travel), but then it kept slipping even out of the car. I'd get it cranked up to the top of travel, only for the regulator to slip and grind against the crank gear.

 

So I'm looking for a driver's side window regulator, among other things.

 

Other stuff. Most of the brake hydraulic parts are here, but wish I'd spent the day installing that instead. More for next weekend.

 

UPDATE - window regulator on order from goodkarmech - thank you!

Edited by majdomo
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Minor update from this afternoon - all hydraulics are in, clutch slave finally clipped in place, brake master is in (what a PITA - do the lines before putting it on the booster), new line from clutch master to slave is in, and I gave the fluid reservoir some love while it was out with some brake cleaner and degreaser. Also, new braided lines to new plastic elbows in the brake MC, along with the new vacuum line to the booster.

All that’s left for now is bleeding the system and giving ‘er a go. Not going to make cars and coffee tomorrow am in the 2002, don’t want to wake the neighbors with my compressor for the brake bleeder.

Other stuff - I am still trying to get to that nut on the opposite side of the pedal box, so I can install the clutch return spring once it arrives. I don’t know if there’s any way to get to it without wrecking the foam, but will do some searches on the FAQ. Also looking for a dome light to replace the busted one in the car, which is that rectangular one from VW, not an oval-ish one for BMW. Searching also for a rear roundel with...patina to install on the car.

Assuming all checks out with the work I’ve done so far, next project will be the suspension and tires. More tomorrow!


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That foam just holds water and promotes rust anyway ;-)

 

I think the sunroof cars had the oval light while the non-sunroof ones have the rectangular. Yeah. They break. New ones are available. Used ones.... break... ;)

 

Cheers,

 

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Ray

Stop reading this! Don't you have anything better to do?? :P
Two running things. Two broken things.

 

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50 minutes ago, ray_ said:

That foam just holds water and promotes rust anyway ;-)

 

I think the sunroof cars had the oval light while the non-sunroof ones have the rectangular. Yeah. They break. New ones are available. Used ones.... break... ;)

 

Cheers,

 

Nice. So I'll dig into the foam and see if I can remove, or may just cut a small bit out of the side so I can get to the nut. Either way, I was finally able to see it with a small shop mirror and some twisting under the car.

 

My car is non-sunroof, so maybe the rectangular one is correct? It certainly is cheaper.

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25 minutes ago, majdomo said:

Nice. So I'll dig into the foam and see if I can remove, or may just cut a small bit out of the side so I can get to the nut. Either way, I was finally able to see it with a small shop mirror and some twisting under the car.

 

My car is non-sunroof, so maybe the rectangular one is correct? It certainly is cheaper.

 

Just pull out the foam insulator and toss it, give the poor pedal box some ventilation. OEM replacements may even still be available for <$100 ?.

 

Non-sunroofs, i.e. standard sedans, which some like to refer to with the more recent, trendier moniker "slicktops" (somewhat homologous to calling a modern Touring/Sports Wagon a "longroof", but since most came with dual sunroofs they could be referred to as "longroof non-slicktops") do indeed have the basic, more affordable, rectangular dome lamp - one bonus to having a Plain Jane 2002. The fancier oval-shaped lamps came on the "non-slicktops".

 

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2 minutes ago, golf73 said:

 

Just pull out the foam insulator and toss it, give the poor pedal box some ventilation. OEM replacements may even still be available for <$100 ?.

 

Non-sunroofs, i.e. standard sedans, which some like to refer to with the more recent, trendier moniker "slicktops" (somewhat homologous to calling a modern Touring/Sports Wagon a "longroof", but since most came with dual sunroofs they could be referred to as "longroof non-slicktops") do indeed have the basic, more affordable, rectangular dome lamp - one bonus to having a Plain Jane 2002. The fancier oval-shaped lamps came on the "non-slicktops".

 

Thanks! So I can buy half a pedal box foam with all the money I save on the dome light! ;)

 

The foam under there is pretty crusty and has plenty of dirt and other crud in it, behind it, etc. It's actually a little green, probably from moss? I just sort of feel bad for yanking it, after surviving under the car for all these years.

 

I don't go in for the trendy monikers, but I do brake for "slicktops"...the E30 318is is one too, the only option on it is a factory LSD (the only option that counts!) Lighter up top and less stuff to break!

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21 minutes ago, majdomo said:

Thanks! So I can buy half a pedal box foam with all the money I save on the dome light! ;)

 

The foam under there is pretty crusty and has plenty of dirt and other crud in it, behind it, etc. It's actually a little green, probably from moss? I just sort of feel bad for yanking it, after surviving under the car for all these years.

 

I don't go in for the trendy monikers, but I do brake for "slicktops"...the E30 318is is one too, the only option on it is a factory LSD (the only option that counts!) Lighter up top and less stuff to break!

 

Yes! You are on the path to Wizardry, I can feel it. Keep the insulation foam if you're feeling nostalgic - even a new one could easily tear when installing unless you are super careful and have the patience of a murderer on death row. Try a VW outlet like WCM for the dome lamp if it's the same part #, might be less dinero to buy as a VW part instead of BMW

 

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More today - bled brakes and clutch, fired it up and all was good...with the brakes and the clutch!

 

All set for a short trip.

 

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Drove for a short distance, but since I wasn’t sure about gas or the gas gauge, I hadn’t put any in and ended up here. Engine just straight died.

 

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Got some gas in it, but the car still wouldn’t start. I pushed on some of the spark plug wires, and one had come loose. Fired right up after that, but on the way home, it died again. Just before cutting out, it felt like it had a misfire. It hadn’t had that when driving previously, and once I let it cool for about 5-10 minutes it started up again and was fine. One of the wires in the engine bay was super hot, coming off the Crane unit. I have no idea which one it is, will take some photos to see if someone can give some insight.

 

Started chasing down some of my cluster gremlins. Was able to pull the cluster, it’s pretty similar to the E30 actually (rather, the E30 is very similar to this). The knurled nuts on the back were identical except these are 10x easier to get to, fun to see that some things carry forward. I grounded both the gas gauge and temp gauge to the crossbar behind the cluster, cleaned the glass, cleaned more rat poo and pee, and generally did some scrubbing.

 

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Someone’s been in here before:

 

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Before the extra ground, the temp gauge pegged at hot at startup, which suggested a bad ground. I also checked the temp gauge circuit from the engine all the way to the plug on the back of the cluster, as well as pulled the temp / gas gauge to check for any stray connections. All looked fine, but one I got it all reconnected, no response from the temp gauge but the gas gauge looked good. I have no idea if the sending unit is busted or just not making a good connection on the engine to ground, but will try that next.

 

I am genuinely stumped on why the car dies after running for like 10 minutes. It just seems like an electrical problem, but can’t rule out overheating just yet.

 

Also, can anyone tell me what this thing is? Looks like it’s missing a ground. Not sure what it does, maybe part of my problem?

 

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More things - the window regulator showed up today, so that was installed, and did some cleaning on the drivers side door card. This interior is going to look awesome once I get to all the cleanup it needs!

 

 

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That's a VDO oil pressure sender (aftermarket),unless I miss my guess...

 

Your stalling issue sounds like crud in the fuel tank pickup screen to me. Have you visited the tank yet? Next time see if the carb squirts fuel via accel pump.

 

GL,

 

 

 

Edited by ray_
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Ray

Stop reading this! Don't you have anything better to do?? :P
Two running things. Two broken things.

 

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That component next to your distributor is an aftermarket VDO oil pressure sending unit with a low pressure light.. one side functions like the factory sender. The other terminal goes to a VDO oil pressure gauge. Good thing to have. The ground is through the engine block.
Cheers,
Matt


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16 minutes ago, majdomo said:

Someone’s been in here before:

 

29cada838be45d0645c719ac15c85b0c.jpg&key=d0805b96eea671ffeaea3a42a24d59cf953a30aa89cda270aefaccc75e7273e0

 

 

@FunkyLaneO  perhaps?

 

(he's got a speedometer repair video on youtoob).

 

@KFunk possibly?

 

(that's all I've got)


Tom

 

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     DISCLAIMER -- I now disagree with much of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book as timing maps for our engines.  I've also switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results.  I apologize for adding confusion.  (3-28-2024)  

 

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