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Rear Sub-frame overhaul flop.


pinkey

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I am super bummed. I have worked very hard in my little spare time between work and school and finally finished my full rear sub-frame overhaul. New bushings, adjustable Posi-lock from IE, 3.90 LSD etc. etc. The catalyst that started this expensive project was the famous "my car is wanting to change lanes when I get on/off the gas pedal" plus the diff sounded like it was starting to clunk around. I just drove it after getting everything back together and all of the symptoms are still there!!! the shifting when on/off throttle, occasional clunking when I go from drive to reverse and back again. The only thing that was not replaced that I can think of is the bolts that come down from the trunk and go through the center of the sub-frame mount bushings. Any thoughts? maybe the actual sub-frame mount boxes welded to the body are rusty? they seemed fine when I inspected them. Please help! I am super bummed and not sure what else it could possibly be. Hopefully I just missed a bolt somewhere... I will get back under there tomorrow and make sure everything is nice and tight. 

 

P.S. Any good ways to test if the sub-frame is shifting or moving around?  TIA

subframe1.jpg

subframe2.jpg

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Driving a vintage car always makes traveling an adventure.

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For future reference, best to confirm source of problem before replacing parts. Perhaps drive shaft related? CV joints? I would get the car up on stands , car in park in your case, and turn a tire back and forth to load components. Put your other hand around components to feel for play

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Did you replace the center support bearing on the driveshaft? And, how's your little rubber transmission mount looking?

 

Either of those will make some thumpin' when getting on-and-off the gas, as well as other symptoms. 

 

Here in Germany when you go to the TUV or even some mechanics, they have the floor with the moving plates that that'll use to push and pull your suspension around with to look for any concerns... Never seen anything like it in the US thou.

Edited by 2002Scoob
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Do you have current alignment data / has the rear been properly adjusted after mods?

From the photos I see adjustable camber toe thingies. If toe is not correct this will explain some behaviour.

e.g. if your rear toe in is (asymetrical) off the car can turn to one side on braking but run perfectly straight under normal condition.

 

 

 

 

Edited by uai
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19 hours ago, Buckeye said:

Axle bearings?

Trailing arm bushing orientation?

1970415558_ScreenShot2019-09-26at5_50_18AM.png.98bb7f0ef6e8784a9c31fa57a3f326f7.png

Did you follow rear axle installation per following. I know it is for long neck diff, but it works for short neck too. 

1807312579_ScreenShot2019-09-26at5_51_34AM.thumb.png.47bb0a418251297d375420b16dee82ef.png

 

19 hours ago, Buckeye said:

Axle bearings?

Trailing arm bushing orientation?

1970415558_ScreenShot2019-09-26at5_50_18AM.png.98bb7f0ef6e8784a9c31fa57a3f326f7.png

Did you follow rear axle installation per following. I know it is for long neck diff, but it works for short neck too. 

1807312579_ScreenShot2019-09-26at5_51_34AM.thumb.png.47bb0a418251297d375420b16dee82ef.png

I was careful to make sure the bushings went in the correct orientation. I referenced the YouTube video that was made awhile back.  

 

 

This is a great diagram! going in the 2002 folder on my computer for sure! I did leave the bolts loose at "C" and "D" when attaching the driveshaft, before installing I made sure to pull the diff as far back (to the rear) as I could, the flanges on the rear diff cover seemed to butt up against the studs coming down from the diff support bracket "D". Despite it being all the way back the driveshaft was butted up against the input shaft of the diff pretty good (took some force to get it aligned). Maybe there is a way to get the diff to sit a little further back and have it naturally slide forward when I bolt it up against the drive line. (not sure what else I could loosen up to let that happen. Hope that makes sense. 

Edited by pinkey

Driving a vintage car always makes traveling an adventure.

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19 hours ago, Hans said:

For future reference, best to confirm source of problem before replacing parts. Perhaps drive shaft related? CV joints? I would get the car up on stands , car in park in your case, and turn a tire back and forth to load components. Put your other hand around components to feel for play

A great point. I should have pinpointed the problem before diving in. I will get back under there tomorrow.

Driving a vintage car always makes traveling an adventure.

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