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Early "CV" Boot alternatives?

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The clear sliding joint boot on the DS of my '68 1600-2 is destroyed beyond recognition, and the new clear boots are out of my budget at the moment.  Does anyone know what year/make/model replacement black rubber CV boots can be used?  Do the ones from a later model 2002 fit?

 

Also, once replaced with a regular CV boot do I just pack it with grease or do I need to use the gear oil if I go this route?


Thanks!

 

Alan

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Take the whole axle shaft and boot to your local parts store and ask to look at the CV boots they have in stock. Find one that's closest to original and try it , most CV boots come with new grease or you can buy a tube for like $10. Worst case scenario you waste $50 and some time putting it on.

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(edited)

They’re still available and reasonably priced (32 Euros). Don’t use grease use oil.

Edited by uai

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If you have 10 hole flanges you can convert to cv joints.

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Thanks for the responses.

 

Although I can take it down to the store and “see what fits”, I was thinking this has been done before and the information might be easily available.  My local parts stores aren’t the most helpful or well stocked, so it’d be easier to simply ask for one for a specific model.

 

Unfortunately the clear boot is NLA from BMW dealer, and the ones available are considerably more expensive than the prices you’re quoting, thus the desire to find a more cost effective alternative.

 

I’ve got a concurrent WTB thread going to potentially swap in an evenly spaced 6 bolt CV since mine are drilled for it, but was hoping to just reuse what’s there without buying the more costly clear boot.

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From what I have heard, BMW changed clear to black because the clear ones for the early 1600’s would break more frequently.... and of course - Tom Jones explains it at the comment below! Merci!

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Unless you find one of the non rubber boots at an auto parts store that happens to fit your 50 year old axle perfectly, or you convert to regular CV joint axles, you really have no alternative but to use the clear boots. Those original early sliding joints use oil rather than grease. Rubber CV boots are designed for grease rather than oil. I’ve sean many failed joints because people used grease and rubber boots rather than clear boots and gear oil.

 

I don’t have access to check current availability, but the last time I checked, BMW had replenished their stock of the clear boots, and at a reasonable cost considering it’s a part for a 50 plus year old car that they don’t make batches in the millions of.

 

 

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If yoy have evenly spaced holes, cv joints bolt right in. Those clear ones are a pig to install. I swapped mine. 

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Ive got Saab cv boots on my NK  I think.   The clear boots are avail and we have in stock.  At some point Ill install them on my car. The Saab boots were on it when I got it. Tom makes a good point about grease vs oil

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I've done these twice, once on my NK and once on my '67 1600.  There was a thread on here somewhere but I couldn't find it just now.  Bottom line is submerge the boots in boiling water for five minutes and then use some sort of "spoon" to stretch them over the pins.  Also, be very careful with the 116 needle bearings when you're taking the axles apart.  They are said to be NLA but one of mine was broken in half and a friend (thanks Nathan) sent me a link to a company in France that provides the correct size.  I ordered ten at 93 cents each so I would have a few extras.

 

What I learned in looking for alternatives to the boots is that some early 2002s with long neck diff came with CV joint axles with the correct asymmetric bolt pattern to match up to earlier cars that came with these clear boot axles.  I don't have access to my parts book right now but it tells the VIN range for the CV axles.  Pretty narrow range so finding a set could be a challenge.  What I found on my 1600 is that the diff output flanges are drilled for either symmetrical or asymmetrical U-joints/CV joints but the drive axle flanges on the trailing arms are asymmetrical, leaving you with the option of sourcing matching CV axles or replacement trailing arms.

 

The bottom line is you have to decide how many miles you plan to put on your car.  It's likely the clear boots will last long enough unless you intend to do 10-15K a year.  HTH.

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The asymmetric hole cv joints are quite rare, but they can be instaĺled on more common symetrical shafts. If you can find 10 hole inner and outer flanges, you're good to go. 

You need to boil the boots for a few minutes then use a shoe horn or spoon to stretch that sucker over the T on the shaft.

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