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Help with Solex 40s


2002#3

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Project 2002 (for fun and learning) has dual side draft Solex 40s.  The PO and I have both have tried to reduce strong engine rock at idle. 

Information:

  1. 123 ignition with good timing.
  2. Valves are well adjusted.
  3. Engine seems strong, pulls well, and is performs well at all speed.
  4. Plugs sooty.
  5. Soot out the rear with cold start up.
  6. I have not done anything to the carbs.

 

NEWLY DISCOVERED OBSERVATIONs today.  When I use my hand to cover the carb throats and starve individual cylinders for air at 900-1,000 rpm:

  • cyl 1:  Engine almost dies.
  • cyl 2:  no change
  • cyl 3:  no change
  • cyl 4:  Engine slows but not quite as much as cyl 1 does when starved.

 

What might be indicated or come to mind with these 4 observations?  

 

Thanks.

 

Larry

 

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30 minutes ago, 2002#3 said:

The PO and I have both have tried to reduce strong engine rock at idle. 

 

This has nothing to do with the carb questions, but are you certain that the driver's side engine mount is not cracked?

 

Tom

     DISCLAIMER 

I now disagree with some of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book. 

I've switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results. 

I apologize for spreading misinformation.  

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Have you sync'd the carbs?  Getting them sync'd involves not only the throttle plate adjustment, but also the mixture screws for best idle.

 

You say timing is good... what is the setting at 1000rpm and have you confirmed this with a timing light?  Sidedrafts need a good bit of advance, especially at lower rpms.  Haynes manual puts a value of 18-22 degrees at 1000rpm.

 

Unfortunately, Solexes are known to develop worn throttle shafts that induce a vacuum leak.  They can be machined and bushings installed, but that is $$$$.  I've been known to slap some axle grease on the shafts and that usually calms them down significantly... YMMV.  

 

Fuel level is very important, as is the fuel pressure to the carbs.  Which fuel pump are you using?  Solexes don't need more than 3psi.

 

Ed

 

 

Edited by zinz

'69 Granada... long, long ago  

'71 Manila..such a great car

'67 Granada 2000CS...way cool

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Thanks, guys.

 

MM:  DS MM looks solid.  Only a little movement.  Easy to change both MM.

 

Synchronizing:  Not attempted.  Will do so with my neophyte/virgin carb knowledge.  5 years with a KF, so I thought it was time to learn carbs.  Looks like, with twin Solexes, I jumped directly into the Carb Deep End.  Certainly not averse to replacing them with twin Weber 40s.

 

Timing:  Currently, 10 degrees at 1,000. Seems to help.  Will try your suggested significant increase to, say, 20 degrees and see what happens.

 

Throttle Shafts:  Worn?  Certainly, could be.  If so, will not want to repair.  Will try the grease technique.

 

Fuel Level:  PO adjusted to appropriate level.  Just purchased a fuel pressure tester gauge.  Will test.

 

You know what's really fun?  Having the space (three bays), time (retired), resources (you folks), and willingness (heck, I'll try anything) to work on my 3rd 2002.  The "fun part"...I speak for all of us.

 

Larry 

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20 hours ago, Simeon said:

See if you can find the Blue Book sheets on syncing them. The PHH has a linkage that allows each throttle plate to be adjusted separately. 

This and ignition timing.  BTDT.  If you mess with the idle mixture screws and don't get a response from the engine, either the carb is plugged up or the throttle plates on the individual bores need adjusting.   I even tried the trick of using a measuring tool to set the throttle plates between bores.  The engine would still shake and the idle was too high.

Jim Gerock

 

Riviera 69 2002 built 5/30/69 "Oscar"

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22 hours ago, Hans said:

20 deg at 1000 sounds a bit radical

 

Blue Book ignition timing for a Ti at 1000 RPM has a lot of variance depending on the model of the distributor.

 

"003" Distributor - 3 to 8 Degrees BTDC at 1000 RPM

"026" Distributor - 18 to 22 Degrees BTDC at 1000 RPM

"033" Distributor - 10 to 13 Degrees BTDC at 1000 RPM

 

Mark92131

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1970 BMW 1600 (Nevada)

 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

I can’t resist posting this quick video. The 2000CS is so close to being finished. We test drove it yesterday and everything seems in order.

 

BD3F3060-5E0B-46CF-B9B7-1FBF724D5E23.thumb.jpeg.08bf922e86571b7b864251b91f903363.jpeg

 

I spent some time tweaking the tune. Here it is this afternoon with a dead-cold idle... I shoulda put the timing light on it to confirm what rpm it was loping along to... dash tach showed right at 850. 

 

 

Don’t let folks tell you that Solex sidedrafts can’t be made to work. 

 

Ed Z

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'69 Granada... long, long ago  

'71 Manila..such a great car

'67 Granada 2000CS...way cool

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Thanks for sharing that Ed. 

 

It was totally worth flipping my monitor over to watch it!

 

002.thumb.JPG.9c1b6525fdfaba4bb67da64674a10bf8.JPG

  • Haha 1

     DISCLAIMER 

I now disagree with some of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book. 

I've switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results. 

I apologize for spreading misinformation.  

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