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zambo

Fuel tank gasket - width and thickness?

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I was under the rear end today cleaning the under-body and could see that the foam seal/gasket for the tank was just turning to dust when I touched it.

 

So given scope creep is inevitable in these matters, I'm thinking I'll take the tank out and clean it up and repaint it. Had a look at all the historic posts on the gasket question and think I will settle for the EVA closed cell foam ... questions I have are, is there a particular minimum width and thickness it should be? Is like 25mm x 3mm or 5mm adequate?

 

Thanks

 

Richard

 

 

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It doesn’t need much. I literally went to Bunnings and got a roll of closed cell EPDM rubber self adhesive draught excluder section.

 

Maybe 10mm wide by 5mm deep. 

 

You could also also use a good bead of seam sealer applied with a caulk gun. 

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I gather bunnings is like lowes. Closed cell foam tape, maybe 1/4 to 3/8 thick 

11 hours ago, Simeon said:

It doesn’t need much. I literally went to Bunnings and got a roll of closed cell EPDM rubber self adhesive draught excluder section.

 

Maybe 10mm wide by 5mm deep. 

 

You could also also use a good bead of seam sealer applied with a caulk gun. 

 

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38 minutes ago, Hans said:

 

I gather bunnings is like lowes.

 

 

Bingo. 

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(edited)
14 hours ago, zambo said:

is there a particular minimum width and thickness it should be? Is like 25mm x 3mm or 5mm adequate?

 

The OEM kit has two pieces, approx 15mm x 5mm x 60cm and a wider piece.  IIRC.

 

The OEM stuff is pretty useless, and keep in mind that it compresses to the extreme.  Closed cell not so much. As is, the top of the tank/sending units/hoses pretty much touch the floor board.  If the tank is raised, it will press against (raise) the floor boards. Just something to keep in mind.  I used OEM but wouldn't again.  I would use thinner closed cell, NOT caulking...too messy to re&re. IMO.

Gasket1.thumb.jpg.f9a447a0192938bddfb827c3889335d8.jpg

 

Edited by PaulTWinterton

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The OEM stuff looks like it will hold moisture, so I'm not going there.

( which is not a problem for you, Paul, since your car doesn't get wet  )

 

My tank's coming out to repair a little rust along the passenger's side and I'll probably reinstall it with this stuff.

71cQqP0eHaL._SL1500_.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/Butyl-Window-Flange-Camper-Sealant/dp/B0070O93HA/ref=pd_cp_263_4?pd_rd_w=COVyM&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=S3J199XBQF8CZVW01AFF&pd_rd_r=5d7f4ba7-487f-4174-a330-e2d91f7bd38d&pd_rd_wg=W8oMj&pd_rd_i=B0070O93HA&psc=1&refRID=S3J199XBQF8CZVW01AFF

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Do not use open cell foam (aka "sponge") as a gasket here.  As its namesake implies, it will hold water--the main reason 2002 gas tanks tend to rust at their center seam, which is in close proximity to the gasket.  When I pulled my gas tank for a general inspection and clean up (and to get rid of the OEM gasket remains) I reinstalled it with 3M strip caulk (aka "dum-dum").  Stays flexible, doesn't absorb water, conforms to any irregularities and best of all, will make the tank easy to remove the next time you have it out.

 

Use the same stuff to seal your heater box to the firewall...for the same reasons.

 

mike

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I used the same 'caulk tape' I posted above, to seal the pedal box upon re-installation.

Probably similar to the 3M stuff (I've not used that) in that it will be easily removable.

The black 3M strips would look better than grey, but I'll use what I have on hand.  

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