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Any Idea's or help


rcf925

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Newly assembled M10 in my 68. won't build oil pressure on the starter motor. New oil pump filled with STP when assembled. Cranked and cranked, No pressure, I have a mechanical gauge hooked up. Took oil sender out at back of head under pressure I put 4 quarts of oil through there, Still no pressure after cranking. Pulled oil filter and housing, Gravity fed STP in block hole to prime pump, After cranking some more, No pressure. I know oil pump gear is much larger than crank gear so pump spins slow but this is ridiculous, I've never had this problem before on any motor, I'm using new battery

and new M3 starter. I talked to engine builder today who assembled motor and he assured me everything is correct and I 've used him for over 20 years on quite a few builds so I do trust him. I'm about ready to start ripping oil pan off and go from there or should I just assemble whole motor and fire it up and see if that cures it. Pretty frustrated right now. Any help would be appreciated

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STP is pretty thick, I'm not surprised your oil pump is having issues pushing it through your motor.  I might think about pulling the pan and oil pump, cleaning out the STP and see if you can build pressure using break-in oil after reassembly.  At least you should be able to get oil up to your cam oiling bar by cranking the engine over prior to attempting to fire it.

 

Mark92131

1970 BMW 1600 (Nevada)

 

 

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18 minutes ago, Mark92131 said:

STP is pretty thick, I'm not surprised your oil pump is having issues pushing it through your motor.  I might think about pulling the pan and oil pump, cleaning out the STP and see if you can build pressure using break-in oil after reassembly.  At least you should be able to get oil up to your cam oiling bar by cranking the engine over prior to attempting to fire it.

 

Mark92131

 

I've had 2 separate engine builders tell me they use the STP or grease to get pump primed. I'm leaning toward starting to remove pan and oil pump

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Is the pressure relief valve correctly assembled? If its missing, upside down or no spring then there will be no pressure.

'59 Morris Minor, '67 Triumph TR4A, '68 Silver Shadow, '72 2002tii, '73 Jaguar E-Type,

'73 2002tii w/Alpina mods , '74 2002turbo, '85 Alfa Spider, '03 Lotus Elise

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2 minutes ago, Einspritz said:

Did the engine builder take apart the over pressure relief valve and spring?

 

If you are taking the pan off, check that it is assembled correctly.

 

Builder said he saw relief valve in there but I don't think he took apart cause it was new pump. But that is about the only thing that would cause no pressure correct? I may have to drop pan tomorrow. I assume I can get pan off by raising front of motor? 

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If he fitted/removed the pump he would have had the relief valve in his hand, it pops out under spring pressure until the pump is secured in-place....

 

Yes, pan can be removed in-situ by careful positioning of the crank.

'59 Morris Minor, '67 Triumph TR4A, '68 Silver Shadow, '72 2002tii, '73 Jaguar E-Type,

'73 2002tii w/Alpina mods , '74 2002turbo, '85 Alfa Spider, '03 Lotus Elise

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25 minutes ago, dlacey said:

If he fitted/removed the pump he would have had the relief valve in his hand, it pops out under spring pressure until the pump is secured in-place....

 

Yes, pan can be removed in-situ by careful positioning of the crank.

 

I know he had pump off to machine block so maybe relief valve wasn't assembled correctly.  I find out I guess when I take it apart

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If you took the oil filter housing off and cranked it (no plugs, right?)

that points right at the oil pump. 

The bypass happens after that galley, so you should get a flood after maybe 4 

revolutions or so, even with the relief bypass tube unhooked.

 

Did he use an oil pump chain???

 

I would NOT start the engine, but resolve the no- flow issue.

You can run oil back into 

the oil filter housing supply port, and that will prime the pump.

if it's hooked up and any good at all. 

 

STP should have done

a decent job of sealing the pump, I'da thought.  I use engine assembly lube...

 

I suspect you'll find a gross fault- no chain, or no outer gearotor, 

or maybe a missing pickup...

 

t

 

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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35 minutes ago, TobyB said:

If you took the oil filter housing off and cranked it (no plugs, right?)

that points right at the oil pump. 

The bypass happens after that galley, so you should get a flood after maybe 4 

revolutions or so, even with the relief bypass tube unhooked.

 

Did he use an oil pump chain???

 

I would NOT start the engine, but resolve the no- flow issue.

You can run oil back into 

the oil filter housing supply port, and that will prime the pump.

if it's hooked up and any good at all. 

 

STP should have done

a decent job of sealing the pump, I'da thought.  I use engine assembly lube...

 

I suspect you'll find a gross fault- no chain, or no outer gearotor, 

or maybe a missing pickup...

 

t

 

 Thanks for responding Toby, When I crank over with oil filter off it's just a dribble out the housing, I  saw the chain was on when I got block back and assembled the engine, My engine guy told me pump looked new, He cleaned in solvent, Packed with STP and put back on, He said relief valve was in there. this motor bottom end was supposedly redone 15-20 years ago and sat idle til I sent to builder to completely go through again. The block is a 74 if that matters

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No oil relief tube sticking out. Either you didnt have one or it wasnt installed or installed upside down or no spring. It is impossible to tell if the special o ring is on top of the oil relief pressure piston.

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