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Dudeland

Battery relocation sanity check.

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11 hours ago, Vicleonardo1 said:

Just a question for the Tobe King: 

Why (as the Brits say) spelled phonetically: Al loom in e yum cable for Rase kar?  isn't Al (Atomic number 13)  flambe? 

 

So is petrol!

 

Because the aluminium is lighter, and FAR easier than drilling a lot of speed holes in the copper wires....

 

No, it's a terrible idea for anything BUT raceycar.  And there are a few things you have to do to make it work,

from NoAlOx to having copper tails at the ends...

 

t

 

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On 8/5/2019 at 7:02 AM, xr4tic said:

Lots of info here:

 

 

 

I bought an AntiGravity ATX-12-HD and will be mounting it in the stock location - weighs 3 lbs, is 1/3rd the size of the original battery, and I won't have to mess with running thicker cables through the car.

 

ed1b84d0b8926098642b7847143ea807.jpg

Please keep us posted on this.  It would be great to not have to run the cables to the back.  I just need more space for the charge pipe. But first I just want to get the basic FI system installed. 

 

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If they weren't so expensive, if one Antigravity doesn't do the job, you could always add a second and still have some room. (Or carry a spare in your back pocket)    ..😁

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On 8/5/2019 at 1:33 AM, visionaut said:

Odyssey installed in standard location works for me.. (less weight & more space than stock, simple & direct wiring, easy access/charging).

 

+1

 

Installed an AGM battery in the stock location with a custom battery tray. No mods necessary, can go back stock bolt-on tray when I please... which won’t be anytime soon. 

BC5A4646-FD31-4D4E-9992-5A23DB983733.thumb.jpeg.0305977bc56726f1aee0562804af21d5.jpeg

 

Very happy with the new found space, especially around the tii air box!

 

3CAAFD6D-FE56-49D1-9ED4-B4880125B3A5.thumb.jpeg.ebee4f2c606b9f906722d430382ee95f.jpeg

 

Vince

 

 

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17 hours ago, Vicleonardo1 said:

If they weren't so expensive, if one Antigravity doesn't do the job, you could always add a second and still have some room. (Or carry a spare in your back pocket)    ..😁

 

I would check with the manufacturer about the feasibility of putting two in parallel. The ‘clever’ parts of the battery management system onboard each battery might not like it. 

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19 hours ago, Vicleonardo1 said:

If they weren't so expensive, if one Antigravity doesn't do the job, you could always add a second and still have some room. (Or carry a spare in your back pocket)    ..😁

 

I got the 480CA version, they also offer 680CA and 900CA versions.  They're bigger/slightly costlier, but cheaper/smaller than getting 2 batteries.

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21 hours ago, Dudeland said:

Please keep us posted on this.  It would be great to not have to run the cables to the back.  I just need more space for the charge pipe. But first I just want to get the basic FI system installed. 

 

 

I'm still working on re-wiring the car, so it will be a bit before I can even test it out.

 

Plenty of room for a charge pipe though, ~6" of space between it and the alternator.

 

20190815_201210.jpg.dea3cd6595a2ea540c9a4de1921cc1ea.jpg

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On 8/15/2019 at 11:47 PM, mvliotta said:

 

+1

 

Installed an AGM battery in the stock location with a custom battery tray. No mods necessary, can go back stock bolt-on tray when I please... which won’t be anytime soon. 

BC5A4646-FD31-4D4E-9992-5A23DB983733.thumb.jpeg.0305977bc56726f1aee0562804af21d5.jpeg

 

Very happy with the new found space, especially around the tii air box!

 

3CAAFD6D-FE56-49D1-9ED4-B4880125B3A5.thumb.jpeg.ebee4f2c606b9f906722d430382ee95f.jpeg

 

Vince

 

 

Yes there’s not much space between the battery and the airbox with a regular battery, and to change the oil means battery out and airbox end off if you really want space to move, let alone the tray if you want clean or check the alternator. 

I have the TEP battery holder and a battery box but am procrastinating really well🙄

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1 hour ago, Chris_B said:

battery_tray_solution.thumb.JPG.291fd0445c0ec93b5e52f86141ee204b.JPGThis works, too.imageproxy.php?img=&key=7d302bdd2ef0d0f9

Yeah I was looking at this one as well.   Just not sure if anyone is running EFI and a stereo on this. 

 

 

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That battery won't support that for long. You should look at your battery as for starting the car only. If your charging system is otherwise OK, it shouldn't be a problem. I could be wrong, but I don't think an FI system will take that much power. I have a ~450W (300W sub, 150W other) stereo (no FI) and am running an 80 amp alternator. Easily enough to handle this.

 

 

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I have an “80” amp alternator that really puts out about 65 at full chat. I always want to over build the battery system. The stereo isn’t anything crazy. Just like to have a good amount of voltage on hand.


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On 8/17/2019 at 4:37 PM, Dudeland said:

I have an “80” amp alternator that really puts out about 65 at full chat. I always want to over build the battery system. The stereo isn’t anything crazy. Just like to have a good amount of voltage on hand.

 

The battery is mainly for starting the engine, after that, it's on the alternator to provide power for running everything, including the stereo.  Even a full size battery will have issues if your alternator isn't up to the task.

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On 8/17/2019 at 3:52 PM, Chris_B said:

A 1 farad cap would take care of that.

How so?  You mean for the stereo?

 

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