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New 2002 Owner, I have so many questions


ADDvanced

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45 minutes ago, ADDvanced said:

Okay, small update, cleaned the hell out of this thing last weekend, vacuumed out tons of actual DIRT and sticks from the trunk, surprisingly no rust and spare tire well is decent, and covered all engine electricals with plastic and sprayed the engine down with engine degreaser foam, and pressure washed the engine compartment.  Was absolutely filthy, still is, but it's a lot better.   One problem:  Now the car is completely dead.  Won't crank, shows no signs of life.  Yay.  Going to search the forums for an answer...

 

 

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Run, schmun!  Hell, half of our ‘02’s don’t run. And more than half don’t look this good!

 

Congrats on a great find!

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

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1976 2002 Polaris, 2742541 (original owner)

1973 2002tii Inka, 2762757 (not-the-original owner)

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1 hour ago, iinca said:

wow what a difference!

 

love the color..and the wheels.

 

and the fog lights are the same as mine too.

 

you've got my twin sans knee trim!

What's your VIN?

 

You actually like the wheels?  I hate them.  Thinking about respraying them a cream color.   The factory hubcaps don't fit since they're 14s and the hubcaps are 13s.  

 

Vin is 1678432

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49 minutes ago, ADDvanced said:

 

You actually like the wheels?  I hate them.  Thinking about respraying them a cream color.   The factory hubcaps don't fit since they're 14s and the hubcaps are 13s.  

 

Vin is 1678432

 

Your steel rims look like either 5x13’s, the OEM rims for square taillight ‘02’s (1974-76), or 5 1/2x13’s, the OEM rims for early e21 cars (1975-?). The size and manufacturing dates are stamped into the faces of these rims. These “styled steel” rims were not designed for wheel covers; they used solely a small center cap. Your car’s original steel rims were 4 1/2”x13, and would accept those full wheel covers.

 

I’d estimate that VIN 1678432 was manufactured in December 1970. It’s a U.S.-spec 1971 model. BMW Group Archives (info.grouparchiv@bmwgroup.com), at no cost, will provide the car’s precise manufacturing date and confirm the original color (presumably Malaga) if you email your car’s VIN to them and ask for their data on the car. Then you can enter this data and your car into the forum’s Registry! ?

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

Edited by Conserv
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1976 2002 Polaris, 2742541 (original owner)

1973 2002tii Inka, 2762757 (not-the-original owner)

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1 hour ago, ADDvanced said:

 

You actually like the wheels?  I hate them.  Thinking about respraying them a cream color.   The factory hubcaps don't fit since they're 14s and the hubcaps are 13s.  

 

Vin is 1678432

 

Yes they are boring alone.... BUT if you sprinkle a little bling on them you might like 'em. It's a Late Model OE look..and if you go with the e21 versions you get the offset that makes them appear to be

205's sticking out from the fenders

 

Did you say Cream? Ok... don't make me bust out the blackboard....

IMG_3871.JPG

Edited by iinca
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4 hours ago, ADDvanced said:

Now the car is completely dead.  Won't crank, shows no signs of life.  Yay.  Going to search the forums for an answer...

 

 

Good old pressure wash is an excellent way to clean the engine and cause electrical issues at the same time.  Personally, I'd start with shooting air at all the electrical bits and then focusing on grounds around the starter.  Oh yeah, maybe you disconnected the power to the solenoid with the pressure wash.  It's easy to disconnect at the best of times. A simple spade connector on the lower solenoid area about 6 oclock.   That would cause a "dead" response when you turn the key.

StarterPic1.thumb.jpg.557cf76a1e98978966cc396423c180f5.jpg

 

If it's turning over, I'd dry all the distributor parts and plug wires, including inside the dizzy.  I know you covered the dizzy with plastic, that's what I'd do too, but it's still possible to get moisture in there.

 

Good luck.

Edited 1 minute ago by PaulTWinterton
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73 Inka Tii #2762958

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1 hour ago, iinca said:

 

Yes they are boring alone.... BUT if you sprinkle a little bling on them you might like 'em. It's a Late Model OE look..and if you go with the e21 versions you get the offset that makes them appear to be

205's sticking out from the fenders

 

Did you say Cream? Ok... don't make me bust out the blackboard....

IMG_3871.JPG

Now that is a fine looking wheel.

  • Thanks 1

76 2002 Survivor

71 2002 Franzi

85 318i  Doris

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You guys...

 

I look away for 5 minutes and get besmirched mercilessly :P

 

The city/hwy switch on the Frigiking allows the compressor to cycle. It's just a little thermostat.

 

Yeah, so there's not a FAQ here. The Google search method works well, as has been pointed out.

 

As you may know by this late date, the front signals are grounded by the mounting screws (hint, hint).

 

If you have further questions, just call Don (Beeemer) at 985-640-3....

 

:D

 

Cheers,

  • Haha 1

Ray

Stop reading this! Don't you have anything better to do?? :P
Two running things. Two broken things.

 

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crack the bleeders and see if they retract.  if so, it is probably due to rubber flex lines being old and swollen shut.  

     DISCLAIMER 

I now disagree with some of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book. 

I've switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results. 

I apologize for spreading misinformation.  

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2 hours ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

crack the bleeders and see if they retract.  if so, it is probably due to rubber flex lines being old and swollen shut.  

 

No they work fine as regular brakes, but when I pull the ebrake, the shoes expand, but when I put the ebrake lever back down, they stay 'outwards'.  Trying to find images of the drum brakes assembled correctly but half the images I am finding in threads do not work.

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18 minutes ago, ADDvanced said:

Trying to find images of the drum brakes assembled correctly

ccs-32029-0-36734500-1382972194_thumb.jp

 

taken from here

 

     DISCLAIMER 

I now disagree with some of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book. 

I've switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results. 

I apologize for spreading misinformation.  

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