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Engine Seized

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Hi Everyone,

 

My car was running so good after I put the 123 Ignition in last night!!  I had about 50 miles on it and it started to lose power, followed by some clatter coming from the engine.  The temperature did not get too high, according to the 123 App it maybe hit 200 F (I understand this may not be very accurate).  The car leaks and burns oil at a good rate, and when I came to a stop I was two quarts low.  The motor seized; if I put it in 4th and try to push it nothing moves.  The starter will not crank the motor, it just engages and stops.

 

A couple of questions:

 

Does anyone know if the low oil level would cause it to seize?  I would assume so, but then again, maybe there are differing opinions.

 

Can anyone think of a particular component that would cause this?  My thought is a spun bearing.

 

I am going to start looking for a spare M10 in the Minnesota area to rebuild.  If anyone has a lead, please let me know!!

 

Thank you,

 

Bob

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Have you taken off the valve cover to have a look?

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How did you set timing with your 123? If it's too early, even just at part of the curve, it might have caused pinging and melt your pistons. My bet is on this one.  pinging - detonation

 

Surely it could be low oil too, but in that case you should have seen oil pressure light at some point. 

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Sure sounds like the symptoms of a seized engine--low oil, followed by losing power and then seizure.  A very good reason to have an oil pressure gauge; by the time the oil warning light comes on (at 7.5 psi!) it's too late.  Decreasing oil pressure on the gauge would have warned you of an impending disaster.  

 

If you are VERY lucky, you might find it'll turn over after it's cooled down.  But before driving, do a compression test to see if you have any broken rings or other internal damage.  And at least fit a temporary oil pressure gauge to see if you still have oil pressure.  If you don't, that'll indicate a damaged bearing.   I was once given an E21 that was run out of oil twice (by teen-aged daughter), primarily for its five speed tranny.  After cooling down and filled with oil, it ran again, actually rather well! I drove it off and on for a year and sold it to a young college student (with caveats about it's history)--and it was still running OK two years later.  But that's the exception rather than the rule.

 

You may have learned an expensive lesson about checking your oil regularly, especially on a car with a known thirst for oil.  

 

In sympathy

mike

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The part that should concern you is the clatter before it seized up... how were your valves adjusted? If on the tight side with an aggressive timing curve... this could happen.6d806ee6a192013e2425208582cc687a.jpg7e63628c2f0d7ce1d9eaea9da9ea27fe.jpg
An intake seat dropped and disintegrated into pieces...



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14 hours ago, Mike G said:

Have you taken off the valve cover to have a look?

 

Not yet, but I am going to take a look this weekend.

 

13 hours ago, Tommy said:

How did you set timing with your 123? If it's too early, even just at part of the curve, it might have caused pinging and melt your pistons. My bet is on this one.  pinging - detonation

 

Surely it could be low oil too, but in that case you should have seen oil pressure light at some point. 

 

I set the base timing at 8 degrees.  The last curve I loaded had a max advance of 30 degrees (so 38 total).  I have another post on the FAQ about why I switched to the 123, but the summary is that I was having problems with pinging between 2800 and 4500 RPM that I could not remove without changing the base timing to somewhere ATDC.  I eliminated this with the 123 and it ran good, but it is possible that I created detonation in the high-RPM range (I did not hear anything irregular).

 

I will take a look at the plugs tonight.

 

Thank you,

 

Bob

 

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