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hozzziii

Electric water pump routing

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(edited)
2 hours ago, Preyupy said:

you can't dump it into the top of the radiator because this is still a high pressure point in the system.

I didn't know that. Fair point.

2 hours ago, Preyupy said:

If you want to dump it back into the top of the radiator you will need a circulation pump for the heater

I don't know about this, honestly it doesn't feel right to me.

Any other suggestions? Like, flow restrictors or something?

I am trying to avoid this problem that I mentioned above, I am trying to make sure nothing skips the rad and loops around.

I think I read somewhere that's a known issue to BMW and that's why they designed this system with an external thermostat to counter temp fluctuations or something, not sure where I read it.

Edited by hozzziii
I sounded very stupid, I know

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2 hours ago, ray_ said:

This may be of interest.

 

https://s14net.vbulletin.net/forum/s14/general-e30-m3-discussion/50715-electric-water-pump-has-anyone-fitted-one

 

I'm going to go with an electric pump on the S14 one day.

 

Cheers,

The pump mentioned in this post is actually the exact one I had in mind!

They had the exact same problems too, great thread though.

From what I understood, the most common solution was to just delete the heater. Hmmm, I still drive this car year-round.

Also one of the gentlemen there had a picture of the coolant circuit, which is very useful!

coolant circuit.jpg

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You are not "recycling" water back into the engine without cooling it.  The water running through the heater core is cooling even more effectively that it would going through the radiator,  If you are not running the heater the valve is closed and there is no flow at all.  If you look at the diagram the water from the heater core is put back into the system at #11 which is the INLET of the water pump then it goes directly into the engine and back out #12 at the back of the head, this is EXACTLY what would happen if you run the heater return into the inlet side of the electric pump.  The external T-stat allows full water pump flow through the engine even when it is cold by opening the port to the #4 "water branch flange" so the water goes directly from the top of the engine back through the water pump and through the engine.  At the same time the T-stat closes the port on the bottom of the housing to the radiator so no water is flowing through the Radiator.  As the temperature comes up the T-stat closes the return port and starts to open the port to the radiator.  At full temp the upper port should be fully closed and the bottom one fully open. 

 

This is why when people think that they can just gut the t-stat because their engines are overheating you wind up with 50%of the water circulating through the engine without going through the radiator. 

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Also having coolant circulating thru the engine during warmup, warms the entire engine evenly.  If there is no flow then some areas could be hot when other areas are cold.

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My God I just read through the whole thread and just realized I mentioned dumping on top of rad even after you said I can't, I am so stupid, I apologize for frustrating you. Just too many thoughts circling around in my head.

19 minutes ago, Preyupy said:

The water running through the heater core is cooling even more effectively that it would going through the radiator,  If you are not running the heater the valve is closed and there is no flow at all.

Very good point sir.

Alright, so, please correct me if I'm wrong, and thank you for your patience.

From what I understood, it's fine to do the whole "Passthrough" setup and just run the heater outlet through the housing and into the pump inlet for the low pressure, am I correct?

Also, what are your thoughts on the turbo coolant drain line? do you think its a good idea to somehow insert it into the "water branch flange"?

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3 minutes ago, jimk said:

Also having coolant circulating thru the engine during warmup, warms the entire engine evenly.  If there is no flow then some areas could be hot when other areas are cold.

Yes, our good friend also pointed that out, he said the best solution is to throttle the pump down very low, easily programmable with the ecu.

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20 minutes ago, hozzziii said:

 

From what I understood, it's fine to do the whole "Passthrough" setup and just run the heater outlet through the housing and into the pump inlet for the low pressure, am I correct?

 

There is NO PASSTHROUGH the old water pump housing,  You are pumping water INTO it.  It is just a housing that allows you to attach a hose that then puts the water into the block. 

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2 minutes ago, Preyupy said:

There is NO PASSTHROUGH the old water pump housing,  You are pumping water INTO it.  It is just a housing that allows you to attach a hose that then puts the water into the block. 

I apologise for frustrating you my friend. Clearly I have a lot to learn. 

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You just need to understand the ports on both sides of the stock water pump were on the inlet side of the pump, there was no cross over even with the stock pump.  If the heater valve was closed there just was no flow through the left side inlet. 

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I understood that hozzziis' idea was to make the passthrough into the pump housing by that "half pipe welding" -plan that I didn't get completely. I just think it would be a lot of work while you can easily run the hose past the pump housing instead of through it. I totally get that heater is needed in daily use.

 

I don't know how much flow there is through the turbo but I would assume it's not too much that it couldn't be mixed into the cooled water at the pump inlet.  

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31 minutes ago, Tommy said:

I understood that hozzziis' idea was to make the passthrough into the pump housing by that "half pipe welding" -plan that I didn't get completely. I just think it would be a lot of work while you can easily run the hose past the pump housing instead of through it. I totally get that heater is needed in daily use.

 

I don't know how much flow there is through the turbo but I would assume it's not too much that it couldn't be mixed into the cooled water at the pump inlet.  

Yes! That's what I was saying, but somehow things got escalated, which was far from what I wanted. 

I agree it's a little extra work, I just want the hose to be secure in there and not be dangling around next to all those pulleys and belts in front, bad experience. I could just totally make a clean block-off plate and just make an inlet on it, and just run a hose or even a totally seperated pipe in front. Just thought this idea would look cool. 

 

Yea I have no idea what to do with turbo cooling line. I do know that those things get HOT, like around a thousand celcius during spirited driving. So, not really sure what to do about that. 

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