Jump to content
  • When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Electric water pump routing


Recommended Posts

2 hours ago, Preyupy said:

you can't dump it into the top of the radiator because this is still a high pressure point in the system.

I didn't know that. Fair point.

2 hours ago, Preyupy said:

If you want to dump it back into the top of the radiator you will need a circulation pump for the heater

I don't know about this, honestly it doesn't feel right to me.

Any other suggestions? Like, flow restrictors or something?

I am trying to avoid this problem that I mentioned above, I am trying to make sure nothing skips the rad and loops around.

I think I read somewhere that's a known issue to BMW and that's why they designed this system with an external thermostat to counter temp fluctuations or something, not sure where I read it.

Edited by hozzziii
I sounded very stupid, I know
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, ray_ said:

This may be of interest.

 

https://s14net.vbulletin.net/forum/s14/general-e30-m3-discussion/50715-electric-water-pump-has-anyone-fitted-one

 

I'm going to go with an electric pump on the S14 one day.

 

Cheers,

The pump mentioned in this post is actually the exact one I had in mind!

They had the exact same problems too, great thread though.

From what I understood, the most common solution was to just delete the heater. Hmmm, I still drive this car year-round.

Also one of the gentlemen there had a picture of the coolant circuit, which is very useful!

coolant circuit.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You are not "recycling" water back into the engine without cooling it.  The water running through the heater core is cooling even more effectively that it would going through the radiator,  If you are not running the heater the valve is closed and there is no flow at all.  If you look at the diagram the water from the heater core is put back into the system at #11 which is the INLET of the water pump then it goes directly into the engine and back out #12 at the back of the head, this is EXACTLY what would happen if you run the heater return into the inlet side of the electric pump.  The external T-stat allows full water pump flow through the engine even when it is cold by opening the port to the #4 "water branch flange" so the water goes directly from the top of the engine back through the water pump and through the engine.  At the same time the T-stat closes the port on the bottom of the housing to the radiator so no water is flowing through the Radiator.  As the temperature comes up the T-stat closes the return port and starts to open the port to the radiator.  At full temp the upper port should be fully closed and the bottom one fully open. 

 

This is why when people think that they can just gut the t-stat because their engines are overheating you wind up with 50%of the water circulating through the engine without going through the radiator. 

1970 1602 (purchased 12/1974)

1974 2002 Turbo

1988 M5

1986 Euro 325iC

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also having coolant circulating thru the engine during warmup, warms the entire engine evenly.  If there is no flow then some areas could be hot when other areas are cold.

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My God I just read through the whole thread and just realized I mentioned dumping on top of rad even after you said I can't, I am so stupid, I apologize for frustrating you. Just too many thoughts circling around in my head.

19 minutes ago, Preyupy said:

The water running through the heater core is cooling even more effectively that it would going through the radiator,  If you are not running the heater the valve is closed and there is no flow at all.

Very good point sir.

Alright, so, please correct me if I'm wrong, and thank you for your patience.

From what I understood, it's fine to do the whole "Passthrough" setup and just run the heater outlet through the housing and into the pump inlet for the low pressure, am I correct?

Also, what are your thoughts on the turbo coolant drain line? do you think its a good idea to somehow insert it into the "water branch flange"?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, jimk said:

Also having coolant circulating thru the engine during warmup, warms the entire engine evenly.  If there is no flow then some areas could be hot when other areas are cold.

Yes, our good friend also pointed that out, he said the best solution is to throttle the pump down very low, easily programmable with the ecu.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 minutes ago, hozzziii said:

 

From what I understood, it's fine to do the whole "Passthrough" setup and just run the heater outlet through the housing and into the pump inlet for the low pressure, am I correct?

 

There is NO PASSTHROUGH the old water pump housing,  You are pumping water INTO it.  It is just a housing that allows you to attach a hose that then puts the water into the block. 

1970 1602 (purchased 12/1974)

1974 2002 Turbo

1988 M5

1986 Euro 325iC

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, Preyupy said:

There is NO PASSTHROUGH the old water pump housing,  You are pumping water INTO it.  It is just a housing that allows you to attach a hose that then puts the water into the block. 

I apologise for frustrating you my friend. Clearly I have a lot to learn. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You just need to understand the ports on both sides of the stock water pump were on the inlet side of the pump, there was no cross over even with the stock pump.  If the heater valve was closed there just was no flow through the left side inlet. 

1970 1602 (purchased 12/1974)

1974 2002 Turbo

1988 M5

1986 Euro 325iC

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I understood that hozzziis' idea was to make the passthrough into the pump housing by that "half pipe welding" -plan that I didn't get completely. I just think it would be a lot of work while you can easily run the hose past the pump housing instead of through it. I totally get that heater is needed in daily use.

 

I don't know how much flow there is through the turbo but I would assume it's not too much that it couldn't be mixed into the cooled water at the pump inlet.  

Racing is Life - everything before and after is just waiting!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

31 minutes ago, Tommy said:

I understood that hozzziis' idea was to make the passthrough into the pump housing by that "half pipe welding" -plan that I didn't get completely. I just think it would be a lot of work while you can easily run the hose past the pump housing instead of through it. I totally get that heater is needed in daily use.

 

I don't know how much flow there is through the turbo but I would assume it's not too much that it couldn't be mixed into the cooled water at the pump inlet.  

Yes! That's what I was saying, but somehow things got escalated, which was far from what I wanted. 

I agree it's a little extra work, I just want the hose to be secure in there and not be dangling around next to all those pulleys and belts in front, bad experience. I could just totally make a clean block-off plate and just make an inlet on it, and just run a hose or even a totally seperated pipe in front. Just thought this idea would look cool. 

 

Yea I have no idea what to do with turbo cooling line. I do know that those things get HOT, like around a thousand celcius during spirited driving. So, not really sure what to do about that. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • BMW Neue Klasse - a birth of a Sports Sedan

    BMW Neue Klasse - a birth of a Sports Sedan

    Unveiling of the Neue Klasse Unveiled in 1961, BMW 1500 sedan was a revolutionary concept at the outset of the '60s. No tail fins or chrome fountains. Instead, what you got was understated and elegant, in a modern sense, exciting to drive as nearly any sports car, and yet still comfortable for four.   The elegant little sedan was an instant sensation. In the 1500, BMW not only found the long-term solution to its dire business straits but, more importantly, created an entirely new
    History of the BMW 2002 and the 02 Series

    History of the BMW 2002 and the 02 Series

    In 1966, BMW was practically unknown in the US unless you were a touring motorcycle enthusiast or had seen an Isetta given away on a quiz show.  BMW’s sales in the US that year were just 1253 cars.  Then BMW 1600-2 came to America’s shores, tripling US sales to 4564 the following year, boosted by favorable articles in the Buff Books. Car and Driver called it “the best $2500 sedan anywhere.”  Road & Track’s road test was equally enthusiastic.  Then, BMW took a cue from American manufacturers,
    The BMW 2002 Production Run

    The BMW 2002 Production Run

    BMW 02 series are like the original Volkswagen Beetles in one way (besides both being German classic cars)—throughout their long production, they all essentially look alike—at least to the uninitiated:  small, boxy, rear-wheel drive, two-door sedan.  Aficionados know better.   Not only were there three other body styles—none, unfortunately, exported to the US—but there were some significant visual and mechanical changes over their eleven-year production run.   I’ve extracted t
  • Upcoming Events

  • Supporting Vendors

×
×
  • Create New...