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Hub and brake drum paint color


DanVT

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Less original, but frequently used for the rear drums, is a flat-black high-heat barbecue paint or equivalent.

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

Edited by Conserv
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1976 2002 Polaris, 2742541 (original owner)

1973 2002tii Inka, 2762757 (not-the-original owner)

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Mine look like Steve's above, pretty much.

 

I hit mine up with some VHT in "Cast Iron" whilst I had them off the car. Cooked them in the oven for an hour after they cured and the paint seems pretty hard now. The colour I think looks pretty good against the satin black powder coat I did the majority of the rear suspension in. Its a contrast anyway.

 

Treated the hub the same and because I was feeling a little OCD that Saturday and had time on my hands, did the base of the flange on the axle shaft.

 

Apologies for the crappy photo of them just on the bench.

 

IMG_8129.thumb.JPG.2e0067fd9e1874f62e84401844c86425.JPG

 

Edited by zambo
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Thanks guys. 

I have the entire rear subframe off the car and in pieces; main cross piece already powder-coated satin black, taking the trailing arm and backing plates in today. 

Zambo, if you powder-coated the backing plates, did that cause any issues with the brake adjusters?

Dan

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1 hour ago, DanVT said:

Thanks guys. 

I have the entire rear subframe off the car and in pieces; main cross piece already powder-coated satin black, taking the trailing arm and backing plates in today. 

Zambo, if you powder-coated the backing plates, did that cause any issues with the brake adjusters?

Dan

 

My ‘76’s backing plates are powder coated and I have no brake adjuster issues. I’m not certain, however, what issues you are anticipating. I routinely use powder coating as a substitute for painting, on anything and everything — ‘02’s, Fords, porch furniture, barbecue grilles, etc. — and the only “issue” I have with powder coating is its tendency to fill in stampings on old steel rims, making dates, model numbers, sizes more difficult to read. Thus, I like to see rims with delicate stamping carefully painted, with extra attention to these details.

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

Edited by Conserv

1976 2002 Polaris, 2742541 (original owner)

1973 2002tii Inka, 2762757 (not-the-original owner)

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Thanks guys. 
I have the entire rear subframe off the car and in pieces; main cross piece already powder-coated satin black, taking the trailing arm and backing plates in today. 
Zambo, if you powder-coated the backing plates, did that cause any issues with the brake adjusters?
Dan


Dan - I had no issues with the adjusters. I just moved them by locking the backing plate in the vice and used a wrench to break the minor seal the PC had formed around the adjuster.

I have to think what I did up front though, now I’ve read Toby’s comment though ... [emoji848]
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17 hours ago, DanVT said:

Got it! Is that because the paint will “wear” and over time the torque on the lug nuts will diminish?

Dan

 

Yup- powder coat's a plastic, so it will 'plastically deform' and reduce the clamping force of the lugs.

Plus, it acts as a lubricant.

 

Technically, paint has the same problem, but the coatings are so much thinner I've never

had a problem that a couple of re- torques didn't solve.

 

Keep your wheels on!
 

t

 

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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On 7/5/2019 at 7:37 AM, DanVT said:

Thanks guys. 

I have the entire rear subframe off the car and in pieces; main cross piece already powder-coated satin black, taking the trailing arm and backing plates in today. 

Zambo, if you powder-coated the backing plates, did that cause any issues with the brake adjusters?

Dan

Ceramic coat them too!  Find a local detailer or do it yourself.

 

The hydrophobic, nano technology available in detailing now is more advanced than it has ever been.  This means easy cleaning and an added clear/top coat over the powder coated finish.  I had mine done while they were all pulled apart and freshly powder coated. 

Ceramic1.jpg

Ceramic2.jpg

Ceramic3.jpg

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1972 2002tii // 2008 M3

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