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Healey3000

The Nightmare Before July Fourth - rear glass

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Hi,

 

I read all the posts, watched all the videos and then thought I'd give it a try since the rear glass seal leaks like it isn't there.

 

Getting the lip of the gasket to engage along the bottom edge and sides wasn't a problem but the top edge gave me fits.  The glass/gasket seems to sit too far from the metal lip and it also seems like the glass is sitting too low.  The gasket's lip  just can't reach.  I took it back out, but of course, the 3m butyl compound is everywhere and is a real pain to clean.  I hope I haven't trashed the gasket.

 

Banging, pushing, slapping on the glass with a helper just couldn't get the glass in place.  I have seen that at least one other forum member has this exact problem but no suggestions were posted then.

 

What am I doing wrong??

Thanks!

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Try setting rubber seal out in the sun for a while to heat the rubber to make it more flexible 

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Are you using the string trick?  IIRC:

 

A.) Put the seal around the edge of the glass.

B.) Run a piece of string inside the seal groove where the frame is supposed to go.

C.) With helper, Lift the glass/seal over the trunk, set it on the lower lip of the frame, and wiggle/push it down to get the seal seated on the lower lip.

D.) Helper outside the car, you inside the car. Helper pushes glass into rough position, while you start pulling on the string so that it pulls the inner lip of the seal over the frame.  Work up both sides (both ends of the string) and then across the top.

E.) Lots and lots and lots and LOTS AND LOTS of Windex at all of the above steps!

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Lose the buytl goo, clean it all off.

Parts 2 & 3 on youtube under BMW E10 windshield

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The butyl could be causing the clearance issues as the rubber and glass already are quite tight. The mastic BMW talks about seems to be a finer liquid from a caulk type gun as opposed to the thick filler strings. Clean all lumps etc off all surfaces with tar remover or paint prep solvent then do as Austrian Vespa guy....

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Thanks, folks.  I am doing all of these steps with the exception of Windex.  The seal fits well on the glass so it does not appear to need any lubricant.  I have given up on the butyl and may shoot some all around under the gasket after it is installed.

 

Step C is different from what I'm doing.  If I understand correctly, you are suggesting that the glass/gasket be lowered down such that the lip goes over the metal.  I'm using the rope to make that happen.  What about something like Silglyde in the rope groove?  That will stay in place unlike Windex, which evaporates.

 

I tried a couple more times and found that if the seal rolls over on one side, the assembly moves such that the other side is very difficult to get in place.  I suspect that lubing the rope groove may help.

 

Okay, excellent input, I'll give it a try!

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1 hour ago, AustrianVespaGuy said:

Are you using the string trick?  IIRC:

 

A.) Put the seal around the edge of the glass.

B.) Run a piece of string inside the seal groove where the frame is supposed to go.

C.) With helper, Lift the glass/seal over the trunk, set it on the lower lip of the frame, and wiggle/push it down to get the seal seated on the lower lip.

D.) Helper outside the car, you inside the car. Helper pushes glass into rough position, while you start pulling on the string so that it pulls the inner lip of the seal over the frame.  Work up both sides (both ends of the string) and then across the top.

E.) Lots and lots and lots and LOTS AND LOTS of Windex at all of the above steps!

 

Just did the rear window seal on my '73 about a month or so ago. It's a bit of a pain but it's absolutely doable. I had my daughter help by pushing slightly on the outside where the string was pulling out. I was on the inside back seat pulling the string.

 

Couple of points - make sure the window is absolutely centered left and right and adjust as needed while the string is pulling out. A little too much and the seal will curl in on one side. Second, I started the rope pull at the bottom of the seal. I tried both ways and the bottom works best. As your partner pushes gently from the outside, you pull the string and the window will pull in as it is supposed to.  Don't hesitate to stop and adjust the window as needed, pushing down from the top, etc. I also unlatched the side windows so I could put my arm out and pull the glass in around the corners, which IMO are the hardest parts.

Push down on the glass when doing the top - note that this means your force is parallel to the glass, pushing it to the ground more than pushing it against the car.. 

 

I used windex and it worked.  Took me three times to get it how I wanted it.

 

And when you are done, go and buy the locking strip tool with the little wheel. It makes a difference. Another learning curve...

 

Good luck, don't give up!

 

Jason

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Jason,

 

Thanks for the encouragement.  One difference is that I have pre-installed the lockstrip, as per the factory manual.. I've also spoken with a person who did a lot of these back in the day and he also said that the lockstrip should go first.  As I view the gasket, the lockstrip only curls the gasket down towards the chassis and does not appear to impede pulling the seal over the lip.

 

I bought a tool from Blunt but it is not the type with a wheel.  I thought I would get the wheel type but this one is very difficult to use and does not fit the lockstrip correctly.  That makes me hesitate to install the strip afterwards.

 

Did you soak the rope in Windex, too?

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(edited)
39 minutes ago, Healey3000 said:

 

  What about something like Silglyde in the rope groove?  That will stay in place unlike Windex, which evaporates.

 

 

I just wouldn't do that.  Windex is used because it evaporates and leaves little residue. You get a better seal. If your dead set against windex you could use talc or baby powder.

Toss the cord in a baggie with talc and shake it/work some talc into your cord.

Edited by tech71

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4 minutes ago, tech71 said:

I just wouldn't do that.  Windex is used because it evaporates and leaves little residue. You get a better seal. If your dead set against windex you could use talc or baby powder.

Toss the cord in a baggie with talc and shake it/work some talc into your cord.

Windex it is, then!!

 

Thanks

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As to using the tool from Blunt to install the strips after everything else...  My car came with the windows and gaskets installed, but no strips- so I got the tool (no wheel) and some strips and installed them.  It's pretty straight-forward to do once you figure it out, which isn't that bad, with lots of soapy water.  It's really easy to scrape the lock strip with the tool. 

 

I did it by myself, I work with my hands for a living doing mechanical stuff.  I'd like to try the tool with the wheel.  There are a couple of spots where the gasket is rolled under a little bit next to the body.  The used lock strip JimK gave me went in WAY easier than the new one I bought- so maybe if one were to install a new strip, bending it a little into the shape and orientation you want before trying to install it might be helpful.  Oh, and I used the skinny tip...

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I installed the windshields myself...or rather, my son did while I got told what to do on the outside. We looped the rope around the seal twice, not once, and used plenty of windex/soapy water in a spray bottle. It took us 3 tries for each windshield. I was instructed to push firmly in front of the rope as he pulled from the inside. Finally, it worked, but not without some frustration.

 

I installed the lockstrip afterwards. I have the same V shaped tool you're probably talking about. After scraping the living bejesus out of the front one, I kinda got the hang of it but asked a friend to help with the rear. Use a LOT of soapy water. I learned to twist or align the lockstrip so it faces down properly as the tool follows behind...this is what the second pair of hands does. Plus, a rubber mallet helps. The corners are especially tricky, so make sure the strip is twisted and aligned downwards as you go around those corners. We also used the plastic pointed windshield tool at times to finish up. The second one took 10-15 minutes with 2 people. The first one took me an hour or more by myself.

 

I would advise getting someone who has done a windshield before to come over and help. It's a 2 man job anyway.

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So...where does one get the lock strip install tool with the wheel?  And is it easier--less frustrating--to use than the tool Blunt supplies (which I have).  Or should I just take it to a glass shop?

 

mike

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10 minutes ago, mike said:

So...where does one get the lock strip install tool with the wheel?  And is it easier--less frustrating--to use than the tool Blunt supplies (which I have).  Or should I just take it to a glass shop?

 

mike

 

Having done it once, I think I could get a lock strip in without much scratching at all, and it would be easier with 2 people.  And softening the edge that bites into the strip helped a lot...  Really the issue is that the tool kind of needs to stay around 45 degrees from the strip or perpendicular, and when the handle of the tool gets too close to the strip (too far from perpendicular) it will bite into the strip. (45 is approximate and off the top of my head- just to get you an idea.)  If you had 2 people and took your time (and refused to get frustrated) I think it's possible to do it without scratching anything.

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19 minutes ago, mike said:

So...where does one get the lock strip install tool with the wheel?  And is it easier--less frustrating--to use than the tool Blunt supplies (which I have).  Or should I just take it to a glass shop?

 

mike

 

https://www.autobodytoolmart.com/equalizer-locking-strip-tool-pa1348-p-34298.aspx?gclid=Cj0KCQiAvKzhBRC1ARIsANEXdgwNPculsgb2rnDllR-TV7MSAJQ0xesafQdEI4bd29mhFYhN3ftdFfcaAhd0EALw_wcB

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