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zambo

Diff Refresh - do the bearings?

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I have the diff on the bench after a monumental clean up session on the weekend.

 

Looks good now - will be better with painting to follow.

 

I planned to do the two bearing seals - I have rattled off the drive flange bolt and they (the drive flanges) just pull out ... actually is that how they are supposed to come out, just with a little hand pressure?

 

So the question is, is it worthwhile to pop (and replace) the bearings whilst in there with the seals out? I have no noise coming from the rear end historically,, nor much of a leak except a bit of weep around the drive flange output, etc. -  but is my question just good old "whilst I'm in there" scope creep at work? Pinion seal appears solid - no moisture there at all.

 

Thanks as always for any advice/suggestions.

 

Rich

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(edited)

This isn’t a question anyone can answer with a firm yes or no.  

 

You can certainly pull the covers and check for pitting on the rollers/races.  That wouldn’t hurt and would at least help you make a more educated decision.  If you go for it you’ll want to change races as well,not just the bearings.

 

edit: I think it would behoove you to change the pinion seal before changing bearings.... if you are asking for opinions.  The moment you put it back in, it will decide to leak.

Edited by AceAndrew
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20 minutes ago, AceAndrew said:

This isn’t a question anyone can answer with a firm yes or no.  

 

You can certainly pull the covers and check for pitting on the rollers/races.  That wouldn’t hurt and would at least help you make a more educated decision.  If you go for it you’ll want to change races as well,not just the bearings.

 

edit: I think it would behoove you to change the pinion seal before changing bearings.... if you are asking for opinions.  The moment you put it back in, it will decide to leak.

 

Thanks Andrew - that's a very good point re: the pinion seal. I was thinking leave well enough alone, but then there is "Murphy's Law" of course.

 

 

 

 

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you know when one undertake pinion seal replacement it gets complicated meaning replacing clamp bush and setting pinion preload. 

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(edited)
36 minutes ago, Buckeye said:

you know when one undertake pinion seal replacement it gets complicated meaning replacing clamp bush and setting pinion preload. 

 

Thanks - it had crossed my mind ... there are plenty of articles I've read on FAQ about the need to replace the bush when the whole thing is re-torqued. That was behind my leave well alone comment. 

Edited by zambo

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If the pinion is not leaking, the pinion rolls smoothly,

and the pinion gear is not galled, I would not recommend

touching it.  Because then you get to reset the pinion

preload, and that's a 6 banana job due mainly to finesse.

 

The side case bearings are far bigger than they need to be

for dimensional reasons, so you can easily inspect them, 

and then put in new seals.

 

t

 

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Thanks Toby - it looks like “keep it simple” is the order of the day on this one and if something leaks later, well as I have discovered it’s not an epic job to get it out again - heavy but certainly not epic .

Appreciate all input as always.

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Well I pulled the thing to bits to clean and paint over the next few nights. It’s interesting that once apart, it seems a far less “mysterious” piece of kit than you had framed in your mind (assuming you’ve never broken one down before).

 

The drive race bearing races look really good as do – to my relatively untrained eyes – the bearings themselves.

 

As to galling on the internal components, not sure exactly what bad should look like, but I think mine seem to appear in reasonable condition.

 

So following a range of advices here, I plan on replacing the bearing seals on the drive shafts and the bearing race carrier “O” rings, new gasket on the cover plate and torque everything up nicely and see how we go. Whether it will then leak is an unknown, but it will look “purdy”.

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