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weber 32/36 running rich - need advice


Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

I finally got my '76 mintgrun up and running after removing a blown engine last fall and putting in a rebuilt one - it's so great to back in my 02 again! Unfortunately, it took much longer than anticipated and I didn't do any preservation work to the carb during the waiting time, and it runs like it too..

Idle is set at 1000 rpms and it's running okay there. Any lower (~800) and when I give it throttle it bogs down first before picking up power. It runs fairly well up to about 4k rpms, but after that I get a serious loss of power. The power loss seems to be timed with the secondary jet opening (I get loss of power when reaching a certain point in pedal travel while driving). On a hard accel I get decent pull up to ~4k - 4.5k, then "bog down" kind of feeling and sound. On the freeway in 4th (4spd tranny) and a strong headwind (been that way lately out here in the bay area) I can't push it much past 4k rpms even when floored. I also got about 11 mpg on my first tank of gas running through the rebuilt engine.

I'm thinking about buying a carb rebuild kit from Pierce Manifolds, does this seem like the logical next step in troubleshooting this?? Also, is there an alternative to running the electric idle jet?

tia

dug

--

76 mintgrun

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Guest Anonymous

....BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING ELSE, ADJUST THE DWELL USING A METER TO 60* , AND TIMING USING A TIMING LIGHT! - LOOK FOR BALL MARK IN INSPECTION HOLE AT 1500 RPM , WHILE ANY VACUUM HOSES TO THE DISTRIBUTOR ARE DISCONNECTED. reconnect the vac. hoses after setting the timing.

THEN ; PROCEEDT TO THE CARB REBUILD.

AND , no advantage to fuel shut-off solinoid . source of idle problems, I prefere a carb model without it .

Message: ...my WEBER perscription:

32/36

Float Level 40mm

PRIMARY

idle 60

main 140

air correction 145

SECONDARY

idle 55

main 170

air correction 175

....keep in mind that depending on how high you are (above sea level)and ambient temps, extreme cold or hot either way, these settings may need a half to full jet size up or down on Main & Air Correction.ALWAYS keep the AIR Correction jet size larger than it's mated Main jet (170 main - 175,180,190 air Corr.)

Adjust throttle control shaft (carb to firewall shaft)so it is level and straight - inline with carb, adjust with piviot bracket on firewall. Then adjust rod end (on rod coming up from pedal box to control shaft)to achieve full throttle opening on carb stop when depressing gas pedal and you looking at rear of carb to confirm full opening.

DO NOT PRESUME 'a stock rebuild" ????

this carb is so simple, but even simpler for someone to s_ _ _ up !!!

BUY & READ any of the books about WEBER carbs

>>>>>>>>>>>>>----------<<<<<<<<<<------<<<<<>>>>>>>>>------

The other major improvement is when you have the carb top section off, plug the hole in the carb that mates with a tiny brass jet in the carb top. There's only one.

Use epoxy to plug the brass tube.

It's a secondary enrichment passage, allows "course" amount of gas to be drawn on secondary opening. By closing it off you run solely on main and air correction jets. Much more precise than with passage open. Trust me, you'll grin after you feel improvement !!

-------------------------- <<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>>>------------

Go to Pierce Manifold link below , order "complete " carb overhaul kit, some extra top section gaskets, and order a How To Weber Book from them. You'll be an expert in no time.

^^^^^^^^^^>>>>>>>>>><<<<<<<<<<<<<^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

0o=oo==o0

Trust Me.

CD

76 2002 # 2743711

I what to hear how big your grin was after these changes

Link: one stop WEBER store: PIERCE MANIFOLD

Link: http://www.piercemanifolds.com/mid.html

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Guest Anonymous

internal parts are buggerd , drilled , molested that buying a new carb $$ ="s the repair parts $$

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