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jturner

ST rear sway bar - install not lining up

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The ST instructions have this diagram that shows three possible holes for the end link to attach to.

 

None of the holes line up, if the end link is torqued before assembly (ensuring the upper-end-link bushings are seated correctly).

 

So I'm assuming everything needs to completely loosey goosey to get it attached, THEN torque all the bushings. Maybe so there's some preload on the system?

 

Doing it this way pulls the upper bushings out of alignment with their seat, which worries me. But I can get over it.

 

Just a dummy check.

 

(Also, how the hell could you use the other two holes?)

IMG_5907.JPG

IMG_5908.jpg

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Everything has to be loose. Also, you will need to adjust the joint length to match the bar location. Make then longer then what you have right now.  The bar needs to be able to move almost freely up and down before being attached to the ends.

 

Looks like you have the car on the ground, so that is correct.

 

steve k.

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1 minute ago, steve k. said:

Looks like you have the car on the ground, so that is correct.

 

It's on jack stands. I'm redoing the brakes and suspension all at once so I did the sway bars while they were accessible.

 

I didn't even think of that. They'll probably line up when the suspension is loaded, huh?

 

Also, how do you know how long to make the end link? Should I just copy the stock one? The front-ward pivot points are stock.

 

 

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the bar should be free to move up and down until you attach one of the ends.  You can adjust so that is it high up but does not interfere with anything when suspension is compressed. 

 

You will probably need to make one end link longer then the other as the cars do not compress evenly on both sides.

 

steve k.

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Doesn't the diagram show the upper bolt mount is adjustable fore / aft so the link is straight?

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2 hours ago, Einspritz said:

Doesn't the diagram show the upper bolt mount is adjustable fore / aft so the link is straight?

 

That's just a generic drawing, they probably use it for any application. On our cars the mounting point is static/welded.

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13 hours ago, steve k. said:

the bar should be free to move up and down until you attach one of the ends.  You can adjust so that is it high up but does not interfere with anything when suspension is compressed. 

 

You will probably need to make one end link longer then the other as the cars do not compress evenly on both sides.

 

steve k.

 

So I want it as high as possible, without it contacting anything else on compression. And that height might be different on each end. Copy that.

 

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38 minutes ago, John_in_VA said:

I thought the bar was supposed to be parallel to the ground.

Not important at all, but their length makes them be close to that. It will have to be moved up and down based on which hole you use. 

 

Steve 

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message to ST:  it is an anti-roll bar.  Don't mind me, I had a bad day. 

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(edited)

For a performance aftermarket installation, the down link length should be adjustable. I has to be adjustable so that, when attached to the antiroll bar arm when the car is on the ground, there is no load imposed on either wheel. If you want to get really anal, have someone of your weight sit in the driver's seat and then adjust the link. Not too critical for a street build. But if you are looking to lower your lap time by a few tenths you'll be happy you did it right.

Edited by Mike A

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36 minutes ago, Mike A said:

For a performance aftermarket installation, the down link length should be adjustable. I has to be adjustable so that, when attached to the antiroll bar arm when the car is on the ground, there is no load imposed on either wheel. If you want to get really anal, have someone of your weight sit in the driver's seat and then adjust the link. Not too critical for a street build. But if you are looking to lower your lap time by a few tenths you'll be happy you did it right.

 

Good. Stuff. The blue book has almost nothing on fitting the "stabilizer", and STs own instructions had me doing it on jack stands.

 

So the point of adjusting the end-link length is to make sure there is NO preload on the system at rest.

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^^^ you got it

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Anti-roll bar is a spring that is only in action when one wheel is uneven with the other. So when car is at rest it needs to be unloaded.

 

I can post some pictures and formulas later. 

 

Steve K 

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(edited)

You are right...it's a torsional spring which is what jturner is installing I presume. But "sway bar" is a misnomer. 

Edited by Mike A
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