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tdskip

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 Gentlemen-picking the 74 TII back up now that I’ve got some of the other projects adequately  sorted out.

 

 Before the rebuild engine goes in it would seem like now is the time to deal with brake and clutch and swapping in the five speed gear box. Based on how she sits today what would you all suggest by way of a plan of attack? 

 

Thanks!

 

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If it were me I'd drop the front subframe and do that while you're there too - nothing like fresh rubber. I assume it would also be easier to do the clutch and trans swap outside of the car and then drop the whole unit in, unless you are using a lift and a transmission jack. Be sure to bang out some room in the tunnel. 

'68 Caribe 1600-1563167

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Also reinforce the driver's side engine mount while the subframe is out.

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     DISCLAIMER -- I now disagree with much of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book as timing maps for our engines.  I've also switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results.  I apologize for spreading misinformation. 

(3-28-2024)  

 

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Thanks for the fast response-I imagine now would be the easiest time to drop that sub frame but my slippery slope alarm is going off!

 

  To your point-I’m sure all that stuff needs to be refreshed.

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Well, you could remove the steering box and weld the support piece while leaning over the fender.  I did mine that way.  (preemptively)  It was not a fun position to weld in though.

     DISCLAIMER -- I now disagree with much of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book as timing maps for our engines.  I've also switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results.  I apologize for spreading misinformation. 

(3-28-2024)  

 

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2 minutes ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

Well, you could remove the steering box and weld the support piece while leaning over the fender.  I did mine that way.  (preemptively)  It was not a fun position to weld in though.

 

I take it that’s a known weak spot?

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yes, they tend to crack at the webs about half way up, based on photos I've seen.

 

You can make your own reinforcement piece, or order one already cut out for around $20.

I think they require a little bending, is all.  


Don't double up the thickness at the tip where the nut sits, or the mount's stud can be a little short for full thread engagement.

     DISCLAIMER -- I now disagree with much of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book as timing maps for our engines.  I've also switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results.  I apologize for spreading misinformation. 

(3-28-2024)  

 

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1 minute ago, tdskip said:

I take it that’s a known weak spot?

There are 2 types of left side engine mounts on the 02, ones that have broken and ones that are going to break. Other than that give everything a good scrub down with simple green and fix the rust spot on the right side just above the frame rail.

If everybody in the room is thinking the same thing, then someone is not thinking.

 

George S Patton 

Planning the Normandy Break out 1944

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