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tii alternator install technique


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Just feel like sharing my story. 

 

Am I the only one who has to unbolt the exhaust side motor mount (and lift up the engine)  to allow for clearance when up-serting the alt into the engine bay under the battery tray? 

 

In all my years with other tii's I can't recall having to do this.  Then again I can;t recall if I have ever had to replace an alt on a tii.  

 

Is this just against the norm or unpopular? 

 

 

But what do I know

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I drilled out the welds in the font and side mounting points of the battery tray and replaced them with a nut and bolt.  Battery comes out easy as well as the tray and allows you to remove tii alternator without all that fuss.  Never asked your question but here's my solution.

 

Roman

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The PO did the same on mine except they did a crap job, I cleaned it up and bolted it in better.

From a long and distant memory, I think I have dropped the sway bar previously to get it in, but that was 30 years ago, definitely shouldn't need to touch the mounts. What does the blue book say?

I would seriously look at making your tray removable, so much easier to work on that side of the motor, oil changes are a breeze.

Having a removable tray has also made me realise I don't need to relocate the battery as it takes 10mins to get it and the tray out.

Edited by SydneyTii
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6 hours ago, SydneyTii said:

From a long and distant memory, I think I have dropped the sway bar previously to get it in, but that was 30 years ago, definitely shouldn't need to touch the mounts.

 

Here is an excellent post from Paul Wegweiser that mentions dropping the sway bar.  (from almost 20 years ago)

 

"Remove alternator and bracket held to engine block. If you're doing the pan - wait until the pan is loose before taking out a tii alternator - this saves you from disassembling the swaybar mounts. Regular alternators are a snap though. Removing the oil filter helps on a tii, too!"

 

 

 

     DISCLAIMER 

I now disagree with some of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book. 

I've switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results. 

I apologize for spreading misinformation.  

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FWIW-unbolting the motor mount and jacking up up the engine is likely the same amount of fuss as unbolting a battery tray. JUST remember to remove the distributor cap before you start lifting.  

 

Removing the sway bar is much more of a pain. Especially when it comes time to reinstall the bolts into the bushing caps.    

 

but what do I know.  

Edited by conkitchen
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But what do I know

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Whenever I've had to remove the alternator on either of my tiis, I've always removed the radiator.  Even with the radiator removed, I had to tilt the alternator just the right way in order to get it out.  Probably easier to use your motor mount method.

1973 tii Inka - Oranjeboom

1974 tii Fjord/Primer - The Thrasher (my daily driver since 1986)

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I unbolt the alternator from it's bracket and hang onto it.  Then using a Big Crowbar I lever & shove the engine toward the passenger side.  This opens up enough space for the alternator to drop down and out.

 

Some reading on topic ......

 

Cheers,

 

Carl

 

Edited by OriginalOwner
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36 minutes ago, OriginalOwner said:

Big Crowbar

 

Yeah, I remember now!  Haven't done it with everything in place for 2 decades but I remember it was a puzzle and the alt only goes in one way.  The crowbar helped create that tiny extra space to negotiate the alt in from below.

 

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73 Inka Tii #2762958

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15 hours ago, OriginalOwner said:

I unbolt the alternator from it's bracket and hang onto it.  Then using a Big Crowbar I lever & shove the engine toward the passenger side.  This opens up enough space for the alternator to drop down and out.

 

The BIG crowbar technique has worked for me.  I think I used my jack handle. 

Josh (in Dallas)

'72 tii

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