break-in engine oil with or without zinc

[flagoworld]

4 hours ago, npdw said:

And is the zinc in the oil important for the running in cycle of the first 1000km (or 600 miles)??

 

Or is it more applicable for engine oil after the running in cycle?

 

As far as I know, the zinc is ALWAYS important in this motor. It plays a very specific role, which is providing the extra lubrication needed between the camshaft and the rockers. Modern engines have rollers on the rocker arms and the rollers travel along the camshaft, meaning next to no friction. The M10 and as far as i know most other older motors use flat faces on the rocker arms that slide along the cam lobes. This sliding action is why you need the zinc for extra lubrication.

 

In other words, always use oil with zinc in it.

 

That's my understanding, anyways.

 

Search the interwebz for "flat tappet cam vs roller cam". Interesting stuff!

[Son of Marty]

Yes always zinc to keep your cam happy.

[AustrianVespaGuy]

+1 for Zinc being a necessity.  I've been using and been happy with the Rotella T 15W40 diesel oil that if memory serves has something like 1000 or 1100 ZDDP.

[Gordo]

Break in oil should be a non detergent oil to allow all the metal bits to fall to the bottom of the oil sump. If you can get a an oil that is advertised as break in oil, thats the way to go. The regular oils we all use have detergents that suspend all the good parts of the oil, making the oil and engine last longer. My practice after a new engine build has been to drain and refill with fresh break in oil after the 20 minutes at 2500 RPM cam break in was done. To each his own.

 

The high ZDP additives are highly recomended on all engines without catalytic converters. These ZDP additives can handle extremely high pressure (point) loads, like at the tip of a cam lobe. I use the Lucas ZDP additive with every oil change in my M10.

 

Cheers

[Mike A]

On 5/6/2019 at 2:46 PM, irdave said:

I used Brad Penn break in oil.  About 1,000 miles.

+1   see for instance lnengineering.com/oil

Edited May 12, 2019 by Mike A

[Mike A]

9 hours ago, Gordo said:

Break in oil should be a non detergent oil to allow all the metal bits to fall to the bottom of the oil sump. If you can get a an oil that is advertised as break in oil, thats the way to go. The regular oils we all use have detergents that suspend all the good parts of the oil, making the oil and engine last longer. My practice after a new engine build has been to drain and refill with fresh break in oil after the 20 minutes at 2500 RPM cam break in was done. To each his own.

 

The high ZDP additives are highly recomended on all engines without catalytic converters. These ZDP additives can handle extremely high pressure (point) loads, like at the tip of a cam lobe. I use the Lucas ZDP additive with every oil change in my M10.

 

Cheers

Note that the petroleum experts research shows excessive wear when ZDP exceeds a concentration of 2000ppm. Better figure out what concentration you are making when you add a supplement.

[Mike A]

Mobil 1 15-50 racing oil 1300 ppm zinc after Brad Penn 10-30 wt break-in …$25 on line for 5 quarts

Edited May 12, 2019 by Mike A

[tzei]

Does anybody know zddp for Gulf Racing 10W-60 oil? Google won't answer me

[OriginalOwner]

 

Terveisiä !!

here's a huge listing of ZDDP ppm's ...... sadly, Gulf Racing is not among those listed .......

 

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?136304-What-oil-brands-offer-the-best-protection-***Good-read***

 

Cheers,

 

Carl

 

Edited May 12, 2019 by OriginalOwner

[jimk]

He forgot to define his test, the "One armed bandit" or a SAE approved test method.

[Vicleonardo1]

After break in.

Valvoline VR-1 and be done with it. 

All the zinc (not too much) and protection one would need. 

https://www.valvoline.com/about-us/faq/racing-oil-faq

 

#3 on Carl's list above. 

Cheers! 

Edited May 13, 2019 by Vicleonardo1
More information.

[jimk]

With all the hoopla about mine is better than yours, I thought I'd do a check.

Good for another 5K 

[npdw]

I checked with Schrick, the camshaft supplier. They indicated that it is not needed to have oil with zinc. 

 

However, I deceded to buy something with zinc just to be sure.

 

thanks all.

 

gr, niels.

[AceAndrew]

2 hours ago, npdw said:

I checked with Schrick, the camshaft supplier. They indicated that it is not needed to have oil with zinc. 

 

Unfortunately the Schrick of today is not the Schrick of yesteryear.  Good to hear you are using the board's recommendation.  I can assure you (given I used to source camshafts from the same source Schrick has used since their ownership changed) that they most certainly need a good dollop of zddp.  It's a lesson many have learned the hard way.

 

Here's a list of decent oils for posterity.... https://adamsautosport.com/bmw-m10-m20-m30-engine-oil-guide/

 

Another note regarding your break in.... please be sure to check your valve adjustment after a couple heat cycles.  I've seen the lash tighten up a LOT on an engine with fresh (or reground) valve seats.  Enough to wipe a cam long before that 1000k is reached.  This is especially prevalent if the engine builder forgot to set the valve adjustment after the head was torqued (easy enough to set it correctly on the work bench and forget about later).

Edited May 14, 2019 by AceAndrew

[TobyB]

On 5/14/2019 at 6:57 AM, npdw said:

I checked with Schrick, the camshaft supplier. They indicated that it is not needed to have oil with zinc. 

 

However, I deceded to buy something with zinc just to be sure.

 

thanks all.

 

gr, niels.

So, Schrick no longer warranties their cams?  good to know....

 

t