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Just strait up can't figure it out. $50 reward offered.


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1 hour ago, Dudeland said:

It always goes lean when I lift off, then comes down,  It sometimes overshoots rich when coming to a stop, like AFR of about 11 then settles around 12.5, or wherever I set it in the system.

This is not killing the engine.  Is this what you saw when it dies?

A log will tell:

If there is an electrical power failure.

Sagging fuel pressure

Ignition miss

Loss of crank position signal

vacuum leak

These can be deduced from the log without any special instrumentation.

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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48 minutes ago, jimk said:

This is not killing the engine.  Is this what you saw when it dies?

A log will tell:

If there is an electrical power failure.

Sagging fuel pressure

Ignition miss

Loss of crank position signal

vacuum leak

These can be deduced from the log without any special instrumentation.

The system consists of the following inputs:  

 

1) MAP

2) TPS 

3) IAC

4) RPM

5) O2

 

It will have a crank trigger ignition, but it is a flying magnet, so the crank position is not really accurate,  It will be able to tell you the ignition advance since I mirrored the settings of the 123 in the Holley.  

 

The Holley EFI, once I hook up the crank trigger,  has a  function that it will help adjust the advance and dwell to maintain idle. 

"Goosed" 1975 BMW 2002

 

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10 hours ago, Dudeland said:

What about hard braking from speed but then lift before you stop to see if it starts back up? (eg braking from 40 to 20mph...)

 

Did you try this suggestion from irdave? What was the result? Does it only happen with clutch fully depressed? How about with car in neutral and braking hard? What happens when you pull emergency brake instead of foot brake?

 

Just thinking of some ways to rule out electrical gremlins - Or, are you convinced it's fuel delivery related?

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Ok, I shot a video and at the end of it, I was filming my hose going to the booster and realized that I hadn't changed the check valve I only checked its direction.  So before I post the video, we may have a winner.  I will check it tomorrow and see what's what. 

Edited by Dudeland

"Goosed" 1975 BMW 2002

 

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14 hours ago, Dudeland said:

It will have a crank trigger ignition, but it is a flying magnet, so the crank position is not really accurate

Doesn't matter.  If the rpm recorded disappears and the rest of the instruments read in the log, the trigger is interrupted.  I said deduced, meaning not necessarily a direct read out of what is happening.  Same goes for if there is a power interruption or a misfire.  You need to think about and figure it out not just look for an answer.

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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Don't think it would be fuel supply or it wouldn't drive.  So that rules out the pump/filter suggestions.

Low fuel pressure would show up in the fuel corrections map where it would be trying to add lots of fuel because more time is needed at reduced pressure to supply enough fuel.

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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2 hours ago, Dudeland said:

I am praying that the booster is leaking or the check valve is gone. Otherwise it is the motor itself. 

It has to be unmetered air in the system. 

 

... but how would the engine be intermittent?

 

A loss of compression would be consistent and not related to braking. 

rtheriaque wrote:

Carbs: They're necessary and barely controlled fuel leaks that sometimes match the air passing through them.

My build blog:http://www.bmw2002faq.com/blog/163-simeons-blog/

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18 hours ago, Simeon said:

 

... but how would the engine be intermittent?

 

A loss of compression would be consistent and not related to braking. 

Agreed perhaps decel with the trottle closed does something to draw the air in. 

 

Video coming

 

"Goosed" 1975 BMW 2002

 

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