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Just strait up can't figure it out. $50 reward offered.


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Ok so for no reason when I come to a more than gentle stop, my car stalls.   The harder I stop, the more it wants to stall.  The first person with the solution gets $50 USD sent by PayPal.  No bullshit. 

 

I have fuel injection, So it can't be fuel slosh in the carb.  I have the pickup coming from the tank (factory pickup) , into a canister type fuel filter then into the pump, then to the EFI system.  I have a consistent 63-64 PSI feed going to the system.  The system requires 60 and is internally regulated with a bypass.  It really seems like fuel delivery, but how?

 

The only thing I am going to do today is to move the fuel pressure sender from the delivery line to the return to see what the return pressure is.  I will check the internal pressure regulator to see if there is any junk in it. 

 

 

Some avenues I have pondered:. 

 

1) The motor moves forward under hard braking:

              Fresh factory motor mounts and enough play in the linkage so it can move forward and back, and not bind ( IE urethane motor mounts on order just in case) . 

2) Low oil pressure:

             Brand new oil pump,  40 psi warm, 80-100 psi cold (70 degrees f)

3) Low voltage:

             13.9 volts constant ( on the EFI computer readout).  VDO gauge showing 14.2. 

4) Gas supply:

             3/4 tank of gas

5) Fuel Pressure:

            Min 60 PSI as per manufacturer spec.  Also, the EFI will allow you to update with actual pressure for better fuel metering. 

6) Leak at brake booster:

            Pushing up and down on the brake pedal doesn't replicate the stalling problem

7) Intake loading up on fuel.

            Could be the problem... but not sure how to test this.

? Fuel volume:

            Not sure what to do here either.

 

 

 

 

 

"Goosed" 1975 BMW 2002

 

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+1  Brake booster

 

(a torn/ruptured/leaking diaphragm in the booster will result in a large vacuum leak, sometimes only noticeable during braking)

 

You can test this at idle by simply depressing the brake pedal and noting if the engine speed changes. Sometimes it’s the booster hose, or check valve, or the plastic 90 degree fitting at the booster ( I don’t think the Tii has that particular fitting). All of those are easy to repair. If the diaphragm is the culprit... that means a new/rebuilt unit. I think Ireland was offering a rebuild service at one point??

 

Hope it’s an easy repair. 

 

Ed Z

Edited by zinz

'69 Granada... long, long ago  

'71 Manila..such a great car

'67 Granada 2000CS...way cool

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Eliminate the option of brake booster by capping it off at the engine and drive the car (carefully) it will still stop without the booster. Next I had a similar gremlin, one wire connecting to the distributor was going to ground intermittently, drove me nuts I found it late at night idling the car and inspecting in the pitch black. The wiring to the distributor moves quite a bit as the engine rotates about the crank. Have you tried taking it out of gear when stopping rather than just engaging the clutch?

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Failing the brake booster that seems to be the leading contender, can you give a little more detail on how it wants to stall? Is it a rough stumble, or is it cutting out, or a smooth drop in RPM? With EFI I'm guessing you have an oxygen sensor in play - do you have an AFM? If so, what is it showing when it wants to stall?

--

Just because you're not paranoid doesn't mean they aren't out to get you.

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57 minutes ago, coloincaalpine said:

One way check valve in booster vacuum hose defective.

New brake booster vacuum valve.  I will send a pic of the valve installed to confirm the right direction. 

Edited by Dudeland

"Goosed" 1975 BMW 2002

 

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58 minutes ago, zinz said:

+1  Brake booster

 

(a torn/ruptured/leaking diaphragm in the booster will result in a large vacuum leak, sometimes only noticeable during braking)

 

You can test this at idle by simply depressing the brake pedal and noting if the engine speed changes. Sometimes it’s the booster hose, or check valve, or the plastic 90 degree fitting at the booster ( I don’t think the Tii has that particular fitting). All of those are easy to repair. If the diaphragm is the culprit... that means a new/rebuilt unit. I think Ireland was offering a rebuild service at one point??

 

Hope it’s an easy repair. 

 

Ed Z

I can't replicate the problem if I press the brake at idle.  I will do a quick film of the MAP and idle. while depressing the brake. 

"Goosed" 1975 BMW 2002

 

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20 minutes ago, tzei said:

1. Intake gaskets are done.

2. Brake booster fitting on intake manifold has bent the knee.

Brand new intake gaskets,  replaced when doing the EFI.   I will show vac at idle in a quick movie. 

"Goosed" 1975 BMW 2002

 

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