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Weber DGAS 38 throttle shaft issue (URGENT)

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Hi all. I went to swap out a borrowed Weber 38 for a brand new one I bought and I’ve run into an issue. The throttle shaft is too long and blocks the necessary hole. I did some digging, but came up empty handed. Is there any way to shorten this without chopping it? Has anyone else run into this problem?

 

Thanks

Sam

 

 

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Add a couple of washers to space it off from the end of the shaft. 

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Could you just run a nut onto the shaft, then the linkage piece, then another nut with the retaining tab washer under it?  Simply spacing it out by the thickness of the nut?

 

(32-36 here, so maybe I'm off base)


Tom

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Add a couple of washers to space it off from the end of the shaft. 



That’s what I thought at first, but clearance on the other end becomes an issue almost immediately... with the old carb there was enough room that the return would be just in front of the hose, if I add enough washers to clear the throttle shaft, i’m going to be up against the hose whenever i’m not on the throttle.

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Could you just run a nut onto the shaft, then the linkage piece, then another nut with the retaining tab washer under it?  Simply spacing it out by the thickness of the nut?  

(32-36 here, so maybe I'm off base)

 

Tom

 

 

You and I had the exact same initial thought, but see my reply above to Simeon. Shockingly I don’t have enough clearance on the other side to do that without the throttle return spring bashing into the hose

 

Also, there’s the issue that the threads don’t go all the way to the base so I’d have to stack washers. ce5eae961ed55f0db67bdadd73942335.jpg

 

 

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I believe the slip joint where the rod enters the firewall allows for engine movement and you will need enough clearance to the hose to allow for that.

 

It looks like less than a quarter of an inch of shaft length difference; if that little bit is all you need to make it work then maybe cutting the shaft off is the easiest/best fix. (?)

 

I'd do it with the nut/washer in place.  Might even add an extra washer and cut flush to the nut, then pull the extra one out.  It'd suck to find that it is too short someday, but that is probably just paranoid thinking.

 

 

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I believe the slip joint where the rod enters the firewall allows for engine movement and you will need enough clearance to the hose to allow for that.
 
It looks like less than a quarter of an inch of shaft length difference; if that little bit is all you need to make it work then maybe cutting the shaft off is the easiest/best fix. (?)
 
I'd do it with the nut/washer in place.  Might even add an extra washer and cut flush to the nut, then pull the extra one out.  It'd suck to find that it is too short someday, but that is probably just paranoid thinking.
 
 



I’m with you there on the paranoid thinking Tom, but the more I think about it the less I think it’ll be an issue long term. More than anything I just feel weird about chopping a brand new Weber, but that feels like the best (and easiest) bet.


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Is that red lock tight?  You can also bent over that "brass" tab to keep the nut from backing off.  Good time to set your idle screw and start the tuning process.  Have fun!

 

Mark92131

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Is that red lock tight?  You can also bent over that "brass" tab to keep the nut from backing off.  Good time to set your idle screw and start the tuning process.  Have fun!
 
Mark92131


I used a little red loctite on the threads. I actually don’t know what that paint is called but it works similarly to loctite. I bent that tab up afterwards as well. It’ll go in tonight and I’ll tune it tomorrow. I’d love to get it all done tonight, but this car is rather loud and I don’t want to bother the neighbors tonight!


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