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Ireland engineering Front Urethane Bushing Advice


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I agree with Blunt and others about the ease of installation of the OEM rubber bushings.  $5 worth of parts from the hardware store and the in and out is not a big deal.  With that said, a couple of caveats.  I assembled the contraption with all-thread, washers, nuts and PVC as described above. The old bushings, which were in bad shape, came out without difficultly. The new ones, even with a 30 ton press, would not go in. Prior to the press, I tried using my Chinese vice and a long persuader on the vice handle, and snapped the vice.Turns out that they were the wrong ones, even though the part # was correct.  An exchange corrected the problem and they went in without difficultly using the method described.

 

Interestingly, this thread seems to be focused on the choice of bushing material based upon its ease of installation. I'd submit that the choice should be made based upon the intended use of the car.  My '70 came with a poly steering coupler and motor mounts.  The steering wheel vibration at 3000 RPMs drove me nuts, so I removed them.  Vibration went away.  Subsequently, I had the motor rebuilt (2.3L stroker) and completely refreshed the front suspension. Everything. Stock springs, Bilstein HDs, new ball joints and I chose OEM parts for the ST sway bars mounts (used the urethane links that came with them), the steering coupler, control arm bushings, motor mounts and rear subframe mounts and anywhere else that was originally rubber.  I'm quite happy with the result mostly because the use of rubber fit my use of the car.  It's a well sorted out street vehicle.  Not used on the track or for auto cross where a less forgiving suspension might matter.

 

So, I'd think about what you want to accomplish with the car and then refit it appropriately. 

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29 minutes ago, duckdudess said:

I agree with Blunt and others about the ease of installation of the OEM rubber bushings.  $5 worth of parts from the hardware store and the in and out is not a big deal.  With that said, a couple of caveats.  I assembled the contraption with all-thread, washers, nuts and PVC as described above. The old bushings, which were in bad shape, came out without difficultly. The new ones, even with a 30 ton press, would not go in. Prior to the press, I tried using my Chinese vice and a long persuader on the vice handle, and snapped the vice.Turns out that they were the wrong ones, even though the part # was correct.  An exchange corrected the problem and they went in without difficultly using the method described.

 

Interestingly, this thread seems to be focused on the choice of bushing material based upon its ease of installation. I'd submit that the choice should be made based upon the intended use of the car.  My '70 came with a poly steering coupler and motor mounts.  The steering wheel vibration at 3000 RPMs drove me nuts, so I removed them.  Vibration went away.  Subsequently, I had the motor rebuilt (2.3L stroker) and completely refreshed the front suspension. Everything. Stock springs, Bilstein HDs, new ball joints and I chose OEM parts for the ST sway bars mounts (used the urethane links that came with them), the steering coupler, control arm bushings, motor mounts and rear subframe mounts and anywhere else that was originally rubber.  I'm quite happy with the result mostly because the use of rubber fit my use of the car.  It's a well sorted out street vehicle.  Not used on the track or for auto cross where a less forgiving suspension might matter.

 

So, I'd think about what you want to accomplish with the car and then refit it appropriately. 

 Thanks for the input. Yesterday I did purchase the Ireland Engineering bushings for the control arms and tension strut bushings, all else will be rubber. From all the wonderful input I have read here and the goods roads where I live, I am imagining and hoping I will be happy with the ride. 

Best Regards,

Scott

Edited by Scottjeffrey
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  • 1 year later...

WIth IE front suspension Poly bushings, is there any need to do the full weight on the wheels routine? 

The torque is just going to apply to the steel spacers, and the poly spins in its' special grease. 

Unlike rubber that is working like a torsion bar. 

Thoughts? 

 

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