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floatinghead

Is my starter on its way out?

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Took it for a drive earlier and was checking for a new oil spot I found under the car when I got back. I tried to start it up and it made a weird screech type sound and I stopped trying to turn it over. Tried again and it started. And then it did it again. Is it the starter?  Solenoid?  Think they’re orginal. 

 

Heres what it it sounds like and it doesn’t sound good ....

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Yes sounds like starter on its way out. See if you can find one of those old school starter rebuild places local to you. If not, try to buy a genuine Bosch starter and not some after market starter made for 2002s. I have suffered through one that lasted me like 3 months then replaced under warranty only to last 6 months after that. Not worth the hassle.

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If you want it to crank ---  get an M3 starter.  A stock Bosch rebuild will do the job but an M3 starter turns much faster  The are sold on Ebay with no core required. Of course there are other sources  Check it out

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Thanks for the comments all! I’ll read up a bit on the options and get one ordered up soon.

As for installation, I have a tii and wondering if it is easier done from above or below? ( I’ll be doing a proper FAQ search as well).

Thanks again,

Baron


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...and I thought I read somewhere referencing the ballast resistor at the coil. Do I need any different wiring condos with these newer starters?


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You have to do it from above as you  have a Tii. You will want to remove the #4 plenum tube and throttle body to make your life easier. You might want to get a new gasket(s). Besides, I don't think there is enough room to remove the starter from below past the bell housing and steering gear or near the oil filter.....

 

The rear of the starter (toward the front of the car)  is connected to a bracket that bolts to the throttle body on the RH side looking at it. it also has through holes to the back of the starter with 8mm nuts. Then there is a 17mm bolt to the block, and a bolt holding on your ground strap.

 

THEN you can get to the two through bolts to the transmission bell housing. Remember to use the wave washers upon assembly.

 

While the S14 starter is 1.4Kw, I don't know if it is the same length, as you need / should have the attachment for the throttle body strut.

 

Also, if you take that route, be sure your ground strap and Positive wire are very good to accommodate the increased amperage of the S14 starter.

 

.......and another thing, make sure that there enough flat blade connectors that attach to the back of the solenoid to fit your wiring harness.

 

HTH

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24 minutes ago, floatinghead said:

Do I need any different wiring condos with these newer starters?

 

The ballast resister is not directly a part of the starter per se.

You have to check your wiring diagram, depending on your year; as I noted earlier.

 

Otherwise you will be subject to Homeowners Association CC&Rs; and you don't want that.

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this should work for you:

 

https://bimmerlife.com/2018/08/03/a-tale-of-two-starters/

 

 

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Update:  after some digging around I found this starter on Ebay and it just arrived today.  It cross referenced to the SR441x and the retailers name showed up on some previous FAQ posts. 

 

I just want to make sure I wire it correctly.  Besides the + wire from the battery, there was only one other female connector that slipped onto one of the two male connectors on the old starter, location shown in the pic.   The new starter has 4 male posts, labeled A-D in the second pic.  There are two different size male posts, so i'm guessing mine will only fit two anyway.  I'm guessing its A as that size looks right but haven't checked yet.  Didn't know if there was a reason it would be C.

 

 I also read some different posts about some rewiring in case they had a ballast resister at the coil, which i believe I do (73tii).  I was curious if there was some extra electrical work that needed to be done.  

 

Just want to fix it all up right.  

 

thanks,

Baron

2002-Starter-040419-1-01.png

2002-Starter-040419-2-02.png

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  If you look closely, are there any numbers on the terminals? It looks (from the picture) like there are only two terminals but they each have two common tabs for connections. 

 

Look for a number 50, this will be the terminal for the switched supply from the ignition switch that energises the solenoid and starts it cranking. This will be a black wire (from the factory). The other terminal provides battery voltage when the starter is cranking. This would be wired to the coil positive, along with the wire from the ballast resistance (this may be either a standalone resistor or the last piece of wire connected to the coil that looks like speaker wire). 

 

If you have an ‘earlier’ car (I forget how early) you may have a relay located on the rear firewall behind the distributor. This will do the switching while cranking and provide the battery voltage to the coil. In this case you don’t need to put anything on the other terminal on the starter. 

 

 

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I looked on both the old and new starters and there was no numbers visible, of course.  I only have two wires connecting to the old starter.  The positive lead from the battery which went to the larger terminal and a beige insulated cable with a single female connector that I assume was the switched power, though couldn't see the color of the wire.   

 

I do have a relay near the distributor with a (green/red?) wire going from relay > resistor > coil terminal.  So can i assume i'm ok to just plug my beige wire on the A lead of the new starter and i'm good to go?

 

Sorry for basic questions, but electrical stuff takes some time to sink in and I don't want to fry any parts if i don't have to!

 

thanks

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(edited)

Clean off and look close at your old starter solenoid wire terminals.  There are terminal numbers on it.  The new starter will have numbers too.  The number on the old starter terminal will have the same function on the new starter terminal.  Connect wires to same numbered terminals.

Edited by jimk

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