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Looking for opinions...EFI talk


scatman75

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A quality bicycle brake cable is plenty strong for any throttle body and ITB setup. If your return spring are that strong to break an brake cable, something’s not right. Have you seen the factory throttle cable for a 318i, it’s very thin.
FWIW.


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On 3/4/2019 at 6:35 PM, jimk said:

Cooler than 318i

Cruise control too.

Buy a blank and mount for the crank position wheel.

 

I love the Tll EFI conversion.

 

I paid $1500 for all things needed and went the Kugelfischer route, I'm sure a real EFI conversion would be much more efficient for power and economy  

 

IMG_0305.thumb.JPG.916ff73d930071484e69c91d183c9ff2.JPG

 

 

I don't take myself or opinions Seriously

My 4th 2002 and the first set of Square Tail-Lights

See the 4 versions of my 2002 project here: SoCal S2002 | Facebook

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Just a quick note for the not-so-bicycle inclined.  A mountain bike brake cable is great.  Please make sure to get brake housing as well.  Under almost no circumstances should one use shift housing, it can split under compressive forces- just not designed for that kind of use.

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Dave.

'76, totally stock. Completely.

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52 minutes ago, scatman75 said:

explain a little further

this got me googling and the first page up is a good one.

 

 

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/cables.html

 

it explains the two types of cable housings used on bikes.

Conventional Helical Housing

Compressionless "Index-compatible" Housing

     DISCLAIMER 

I now disagree with some of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book. 

I've switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results. 

I apologize for spreading misinformation.  

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8 hours ago, scatman75 said:

@irdave can you explain a little further maybe provide a photo just trying to visualize what you mean

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

 

Let me put this first...  The housing of a cable needs to be held in place so the cable can slide through it and do what we need it to do- like the bowdin (sp?) cables for the heater- if the housing is not fixed in place, when you pull the cable the whole thing moves, not just the cable, which is moving the arm on the other end to do what we want...

 

Like Tom found, the bicycle brake housing is spiral wound and can deal with compressive forces, like pulling on the cable kinda' hard, which the housing resists so you can transfer the force through the cable, and stop the bicycle. (Hydraulic brakes are obviously a different deal.)

 

The shift housing has the wires that makes up the housing running longitudinal, which doesn't support much load (it will split) but does allow for very precise movement of the cable- which all the fancy new shift systems need (all the way back to 8 speed really, so not so new.  If the bike has clicks when it shifts, it's using this housing.  Back in the days before clicks brake housing was fine.)

 

And the shift housing is stiff, so it doesn't like making sharp turns at all- brake housing is much more tolerable of going around corners...

 

If anybody actually does this, let me know.  I can put together a couple of pictures on how to trim the housing to length, how to clean up the end so the cable slides through like it should (and not hang up), which ferrules are better, soldering the end so it doesn't fray, etc...

 

Or you could talk with Marshall about just using the Honda Civic (?) throttle cable and making a bracket.  I think his works great on his M2... @mlytle He can probably quote the page number for us.  That's probably a better solution all the way around.  I would just do that.

Edited by irdave

Dave.

'76, totally stock. Completely.

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How did you anchor it? would love to see a picture

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I don’t think I have a photo, but any clip that holds the sheath of the cable tight while allowing the inner cable to move freely would work. As long as it has a tab to mount it to another piece of course.

-David

1972 2002 - 2577652 Follow the fun

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On 3/12/2019 at 9:56 PM, Chamonix72 said:

Meh...all you single throttle body guys! Go big or go home. LOL Just kidding, but know there are other options, including a couple different types of ITBs. Granted they take a bit more work to get right, but you get the sound of dual DCOEs, which is pretty intoxicating. Just no pesky distributors and carburetor jetting.

I have Megasquirt with EDIS and a wasted spark setup. The ITBs are from dBilas, originally meant for an E30 M10. The aforementioned Patrick at Midnight Motorsport did all the work. The car has been really reliable for the years I have been running EFI. I recommend reading through the DIY Autotune forums. There is a wealth of knowledge out there about EFI in general. You can even learn how to do some basic tuning.

e42903ee8dd68c5362cf0e9db67dacb6.jpg

 

Got any more details on this?  I'm curious how much fabrication was necessary.

 

I've done motorcycle ITBs with megasquirt on a 16V VW, but it had a ton more room, no brake booster in the way.

 

Plus I'm to the point I'm willing to pay a bit more for something more bolt-on, I'm tired of the car spending more time in the garage than on the road.

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John Baas

1976 BMW 2002

2001 BMW M5

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One important bit to note with any cable, make sure the stop for the outer cable on the throttle-side is located somewhere on the engine itself.  If the cable stop is on the chassis side instead, then any movement of the engine will pull on the inner cable some and you'll get small but annoying bits of unintended throttle adjustment!

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