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Need help getting my Side draft Weber’s dialed in...


Caseyjames

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Hey guys. I could really use some help/advice. Almost three years ago I rescued a 1976 2002 from a garage In Southern California that had been sitting for nearly 15 years. Had a mechanic there go through the car extensively to get it running. It has excellent compression, a schrick cam, dual DC45 Weber carbs and a Korman intake. When I had the car shipped over to me in western MA it was running “decent” but seemed super rich, would get really loaded up when idling/under 1500 RPMs, has a timing surge on the highway and a massive intake leak. Did a ton of research, adjusted the carbs and made it a little better, converted to electronic ignition, and fixed the intake leak. But still runs rough. Messed with timing, found TDC, timed it- this helped a little, but still can’t get it dialed in. It’s super Happy at wide open throttle but hates cruising around town and has a massive misfire/stutter (pops/backfires through the intake) especially when letting off throttle and coasting in gear. I’ve brought it to two local “specialized” euro mechanics in western Ma but to no avail. I’m about ready to give up. Is it possible to actually get it to run Right with the set up I have or lost cause? I can send all the invoices as to what’s been done or helpful. Any advice (specifically a good mechanic in New England that could help) would be much appreciated. Thanks! 

AB977015-977A-40FD-93A1-F87F7401B57A.jpeg

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Not going to get into precise jetting. 45s and a cam above 292 is going to be at the limit of "streetable" when picking up your dry cleaning or getting granola at the co-op. 

Piston specs, compression numbers, leak down numbers. Cam, current jetting, float levels, emulsion tube fuel levels, timing, ignition components, fuel grade. Throttle position observations, carb sync, what plugs, plug reading....

Or you can just take a hose to your ear and the velocity stack and work from there.

 

Good luck

 

YMMV

Edited by Guest_anonymous
YMMV
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Do you know how the carbs are jetted, or at least what venturi size you've got? What grind is the cam? How did you time it? What do the plugs look like after idling and after normal running? Need some basic info before diagnostics can be started. Baseline first, then adjust.

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Just because you're not paranoid doesn't mean they aren't out to get you.

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Thanks everyone for your input.

1. The Jets: I don’t know the exact size, the mechanic just said he called Weber and “jetted them according to their original spec” I can try to get some more information though.

2. Plug condition: I’ll try to attract a pic of the plug as well as the invoices as to what’s been done so far.

3. Timing: Set the timing according to the specs I found in an old Haynes manual, but not sure If that’s accurate due to the cam? I took a paint stick, found TDC on the flywheel by the timing ball and then used a timing light to line it up through the peep hole on the bellhousing. 

 

Ill also attach a pic a pic of the engine so you can see how the carbs are mounted. 

AE0FC939-DD82-4389-B7EF-C0CBCC38CCA6.jpeg

A176FE9D-0F64-481B-AC5B-761E571845FF.png

16C3B009-E648-4334-9249-CC6C70C2DA56.jpeg

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Casey,

 

If you’d like someone to set it up for you, I’d trust SCR (Sports Car Restoration) in Plainville, Connecticut (just west of Hartford). They are one of the best ‘02 shops in the U.S.

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

Edited by Conserv

1976 2002 Polaris, 2742541 (original owner)

1973 2002tii Inka, 2762757 (not-the-original owner)

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3 minutes ago, Conserv said:

Casey,

 

If you’d like someone to set it up for you, I’d trust SCR (Sports Car Restoration) in Plainville, Connecticut. They are one of the best ‘02 shops in the U.S.

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

Awesome! Ill Give them a ring tomorrow??

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Looks like the start of a decent formula. Sounds like there is an electric fuel pump. Keep pressure around 2psi. Check float levels. Time to max advance of 32-35° at 3500 rpm pull back from any pre detonation. If it is hard to sync the carbs short of twisting the butterflies I would suspect there is a lope in vacuum in the firing order due to the 20psi drop between 4 and 2. That might be some of the in between read of the cylinder head rebuild and not the bottom end. Purely internet speculation ymmv 

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Also don't discount your mechanic's comment about the distributor and timing advance. Check to see if you have something approaching a proper advance curve.

 

Cheers,

Ray

Stop reading this! Don't you have anything better to do?? :P
Two running things. Two broken things.

 

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9 minutes ago, ray_ said:

Also don't discount your mechanic's comment about the distributor and timing advance. Check to see if you have something approaching a proper advance curve.

 

Cheers,

Good call, excuse my lack Of experience- but what/how is the best way to check or test that?  

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30 minutes ago, Guest_anonymous said:

Looks like the start of a decent formula. Sounds like there is an electric fuel pump. Keep pressure around 2psi. Check float levels. Time to max advance of 32-35° at 3500 rpm pull back from any pre detonation. If it is hard to sync the carbs short of twisting the butterflies I would suspect there is a lope in vacuum in the firing order due to the 20psi drop between 4 and 2. That might be some of the in between read of the cylinder head rebuild and not the bottom end. Purely internet speculation ymmv 

Ok, awesome advice. I’ll try to mess with the timing again and go from

there. Thanks again for all you input, appreciate it so much. 

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