Real HP Numbers on a Street M10

[Seth Horwitz]

I've searched and searched for some quantitative data on an M10 upgrade, and the only thing I've found is from Metric Mechanic. Lots of guys on here say "do the following cam, change the pistons, increase compression, ... and you're good." What's "good"? I'm not looking for a rev-happy track car, but a solid build that's more fun on the street. Are there any accepted new HP numbers (or more importantly increase over stock) for various configurations? Dynos are great, but "seems a bit faster at the low end" is OK, too, I suppose. Thanks. 

     Seth

 

[Simeon]

https://adamsautosport.com/information/tutorials/bmw-m10-street-hotrod-engine-checklist/

 

 

[joysterm]

There are so many variables that need to be considered including budget,  drivability just to mention a couple that impact any net gain in terms of HP. Machining, cam choice, head type,  carb selection, ignition and exhaust all add to the performance. They can also work against that goal if not matched correctly.

 

I would suggest you find a reliable engine builder assuming of course you are not building it yourself to help in the process. An experience engine builder will  be able to concil you based on your needs and build something that fits your  budget. The higher the budget the more options open up for you if you that is what you are looking for.

 

IMO,  bolt-on bits will provide a limited HP increase to a otherwise stock engine. If an significant  increase in performance is what you are looking for the you may have to dig a lil deeper.

 

Good luck with it....

[jrhone]

Anywhere between 100 and 150.  

Seriously the variables are the parts.  The installer. The tune.  Various heads.  Various pistons.  Various compression.  Various exhaust.  Various ignition.  Various intake.  So with all those variables your experience will vary.  Lol. 

 

A well built M10 should get u 140-150 if you have at least 9:5.1 pistons and either a weber 38 or dual DCOE 40s or electronic fuel injection, headers or tii manifold, 123 Dizzy or other hot spark ignition system and a good tune so it all works well together.   Lots of variables to get you pretty much the same output.  

 

The link to adams autosport is GREAT info!   

Edited February 20, 2019 by jrhone

[Schnellvintage]

HP is truly made with greater flow. Higher compression pistons, larger cam, larger induction, and exhaust to get all those burned gases out. Larger valves and ports can also assist with flow. Like others have stated, bolt on items can only do a little to a stock and most of the time tired motor.


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[TobyB]

135.

 

t

 

[Rich]

TobyB, I have always loved your succinct input and style, it reminds me of my late great English teacher in High School who at the beginning of our final exam said " gentleman, brevity is key " ?

[d.hitchcock]

Mine has the 9.5:1 pistons, EFI, an e12 head, 292 cam, header, etc. Just got it running and tuned ... These are WHP, obviously.

 

Edited February 21, 2019 by d.hitchcock

[NYNick]

Add lightness. By far the cheapest performance gain out there.

Edited February 21, 2019 by NYNick

[Seth Horwitz]

14 minutes ago, NYNick said:

Add lightness. By far the cheapest performance gain out there.

 

Doesn't that make the car worth twice as much, too? Porsche and Mercedes have been doing that for a number of years. 

[Schnellvintage]

Here you go.  10:1, 284 deg cam, ported head, Megasquirt 2.  everything balanced.  HP measured at the rear wheels. 

Edited February 21, 2019 by Schnellvintage
update info

[d.hitchcock]

Nice!

My engine bay is sorta like yours.

 

[Oldtimerfahrer]

Seth, not sure where you searched but there are a lot of places (including here) where the ballpark figures are mentioned for various stages and combinations of components. The person doing the work will give you or lose you the extra horses and durability. What use are 160hp, if the thing goes up in smoke because someone saved in the wrong place? Just bolting some standard package isn't the way to joy. I have a dyno on my agenda this spring, after x years of tuning and adjusting and the result should be a bit over 150. Just short of forged pistons, lightened rods and the like.

Andrew

[Oldtimerfahrer]

Seth, not sure where you searched but there are a lot of places (including here) where the ballpark figures are mentioned for various stages and combinations of components. The person doing the work will give you or lose you the extra horses and durability. What use are 160hp, if the thing goes up in smoke because someone saved in the wrong place? Just bolting some standard package isn't the way to joy. I have a dyno on my agenda this spring, after x years of tuning and adjusting and the result should be a bit over 150. Just short of forged pistons, lightened rods and the like.

Andrew

[NYNick]

46 minutes ago, Seth Horwitz said:

 

Doesn't that make the car worth twice as much, too? Porsche and Mercedes have been doing that for a number of years. 

No, it doesn't necessarily raise the value of the car. In fact, some would argue it devalues classic cars most times as the modifications involve removing OEM parts. But not me.

 

But, it's inexpensive "HP". Let's do some rough math.

Le's say a stock Tii weighs 2315 pounds. +/- 

I've removed about 200 pounds from my 74, or 8.6% of it's weight. +/-

Let's say my Tii was 135 HP from the factory pushing 2315 pounds around.

Now it's pushing 2115 pounds around with 135 HP!  8.6% less weight!

 

That would be like taking a stock Tii weighing 2315 and increasing it's HP by 11 HP to 146 or 8.6%.

So most of that performance you are chasing with $$$ can be achieved simply by reducing weight.

 

Add lightness.