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Existential Crisis


williamtii

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Bite the bullet and have the rust abated professionally at either VSR in Bedford NH or Sports Car Restoration in Plainville CT. Do it right, do it once, don't nickel & dime it or do it half assed. 

 

Keep it a street car that's fun to drive. 

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Andrew Wilson
Vern- 1973 2002tii, https://www.bmw2002faq.com/blogs/blog/304-andrew-wilsons-vern-restoration/ 
Veronika- 1968 1600 Cabriolet, Athena- 1973 3.0 CSi,  Rodney- 1988 M5, The M3- 1997 M3,

The Unicorn- 2007 X3, Julia- 2007 Z4 Coupe, Ophelia- 2014 X3, Herman- 1914 KisselKar 4-40

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21 hours ago, saaron said:

You lost me at seventies Lincoln.  And possibly XJ6.  

 

:)

 

Well since the roll bar is out, I will need something else for a "dedicated" track car. Cant think of any car more suited than a Mark IV or a series 1 XJ6 !

 

The value thing is whats killing me, as it directly affects the price of restoration. I don't personally care since I'm never selling the thing, its been my little blue friend for over 15 years now. I have a colleague with a very nice 911 that costs an absolute fortune anytime something is done. The latest was a mistake putting it on a lift that slipped putting a small dent into the body. He was concerned since it went through the heavy undercoating exposing fresh metal. Cost nearly 2K to bang it out and hit with "factory" undercoating in a spot no one would ever see!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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There is no logical difference in cost between the same bodywork restoration on a tii versus a base model carb car. Any shop that tries to tell you that are cowboys.

 

Apart from the injection equipment and a few mechanical parts they were built exactly the same. No magic involved, doing the ‘right thing’ on one car will cost the same on the other. 

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rtheriaque wrote:

Carbs: They're necessary and barely controlled fuel leaks that sometimes match the air passing through them.

My build blog:http://www.bmw2002faq.com/blog/163-simeons-blog/

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On the west coast, a lot of enthusiasts (read not-wealthy) head to Tijuana for body work and paint. Los Panchos is a popular shop. I had rust repair and bodywork and paint done on a Corvair for $2.5K that looked as good as anything I've ever owned. I'm not sure how that would look to a collector, but it sounds like you want to enjoy the car reasonably.

 

Not sure if theres a similar play where you live, but there's enough savings there that it seems worth mentioning.

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Justin Turner

'74 Malaga 

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6 hours ago, williamtii said:

 

Well since the roll bar is out, I will need something else for a "dedicated" track car. Cant think of any car more suited than a Mark IV or a series 1 XJ6 !

 

The value thing is whats killing me, as it directly affects the price of restoration. I don't personally care since I'm never selling the thing, its been my little blue friend for over 15 years now. I have a colleague with a very nice 911 that costs an absolute fortune anytime something is done. The latest was a mistake putting it on a lift that slipped putting a small dent into the body. He was concerned since it went through the heavy undercoating exposing fresh metal. Cost nearly 2K to bang it out and hit with "factory" undercoating in a spot no one would ever see!

 

I don't understand the logic. Yes, I can be thick as my wife will attest, but still.

 

Your car is worth X today. If you do nothing, it'll continue to rust and you'll continue to enjoy it. It'll probably go up in value, but not a lot.

 

If you moderately improve it for track use, it'll cost you several thousand in suspension and safety work. You'll continue to enjoy it, but it won't go up in value much as a track use car.

 

If you fix the body, paint it, do the suspension, seals, interior etc., it'll cost you tens of thousands. The value will go up almost dollar for dollar, if not less. If you knock it out of the park, it'll go up a lot and you won't want to drive it.

What are you afraid of? Breaking even or not wanting to drive a car that is too nice? 

Whatever you do, resolve to drive the end result. Otherwise, you're kissing your sister.

 

 

Edited by NYNick
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1974 2002 Tii-SOLD

1978 911SC Coupe

1988 Landcruiser

2020 M2 CS

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I'm selling my'72 tii because I can't leave well enough alone and bought a 76 hot rod project.

 

You can crash the crap out of a car doing track days, don't kid yourself. And make sure the insurance people know that it's driver education and NO TIMED LAPS.

 

And if you're really thinking about taking it to the track, I've got some suspension you might be interested in- makes the Koni adjustables in the new car feel ... Not as nice. I'll probably end up getting another set made to fit the new car (suspension is based on tii struts, new car uses other stuff...)

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Dave.

'76, totally stock. Completely.

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I wish we had a Tijuana in the Northeast, I have read through many stories where people have been extremely happy with the quality of work and service.

 

I have heard that Rhode Island is more lax with its laws, it's the state of choice for re-chroming parts so maybe it's the same with Paint? 

 

There does not seem to be a whole lot of choices around CT, it's either super high end Ferrari kind of shops or regular body guys.  

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You may be surprised of some of the talent that can be in your area, at a decent price. I have found local Hot Rodders and guys into customizing cars have excellent resources. (and some are surprisingly affordable). Try checking out a few hot rod shows when they come around, you will find a lot of booths with custom paint shops, exhaust, wheel rehab, etc..You can see their work and see if it has value. 

There are tips on how to save money on work you can do yourself prior to paint. (removing trim, mirrors, paint removal etc) Because paint prices alone these days are getting crazy. 

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Loose: Not tightly bound. Subject to motion.
Lose: What happens when you are spell check dependent.

 

1975 Malaga. It is rusty but runs. Just like me. 

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Hi,

I did a "street" restore on my 2002ti between 2000 and 2006, just to make it 100% fit for use with no great focus on making it perfect but retain its original character. If you don't drive it in winter and its stored indoors, the progress of existing rust will not be great but definitely a risk if you do drive it during the winter months. If you only do what "must" be done (good structure, suspension, brakes and tires) you can just enjoy the car, keep driving it and watch it appreciate. Just make sure you insure it appropriately. I keep hoarding the parts I might need at some point to restore mine completely. I could pull the perfectly OK carpets / headliner to replace with "new and perfect", repaint to xx coats of clearcoat, clean the instruments, finally do the snorkel delete and get a rear bench and front seats reupholstered that match the Feb 71 spec. When I am done, it would be uncomfortable, it would sit in the living room and I would think about how to mount it on a wall for better viewing. It would no longer be ready to do regularity rallies or track days...a total loss for me.

Andrew

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1971 2002ti, 1985 E30 320i, 1960 Land Rover 109 Ser 2, 1963 Land Rover 88 Ser 2a, 1980 Land Rover Ser 3 Lightweight 

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