jturner

Door brakes replaced, still clicking

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I had the same issue on my driver's door bracket last Fall, it was free to pull in and out about 1/4" but no click. Drove down to visit Mintgrun76 and he carefully welded the bracket from the outside.  It's not the easiest place to weld but he did a great job. I also installed new door brakes.

 

image.png.195b9332d9371bca4f3546e872591b97.png

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I also installed new brakes and had the mount properly welded. Still clicks. For me, it’s the pin moving that causes the click.  

 

Anyone know the correct pin size that go with the brakes from Harry?

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3 hours ago, TodB said:

I also installed new brakes and had the mount properly welded. Still clicks. For me, it’s the pin moving that causes the click.  

 

Anyone know the correct pin size that go with the brakes from Harry?

 

Did your set from Harry not come with a bolt/nut to replace the pin? Mine is snug, I can measure at the shop later.

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4 minutes ago, jturner said:

 

Did your set from Harry not come with a bolt/nut to replace the pin? Mine is snug, I can measure at the shop later.

 

Pretty sure mine came with some nylon washers/ bushes to take up even more slack. 

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Mine did come with a pin, nylon washer and locknut but it still moves and clicks. I just need to pull it and get the correct larger  size. 

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1 hour ago, TodB said:

Mine did come with a pin, nylon washer and locknut but it still moves and clicks. I just need to pull it and get the correct larger  size. 

 

The bolt it comes wIth is M5, fwiw.

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On 2/10/2019 at 11:08 AM, 7502 said:

I had the same issue on my driver's door bracket last Fall, it was free to pull in and out about 1/4" but no click. Drove down to visit Mintgrun76 and he carefully welded the bracket from the outside.  It's not the easiest place to weld but he did a great job. I also installed new door brakes.

 

image.png.195b9332d9371bca4f3546e872591b97.png

Even better than my idea!!

 

I assume all was well and click/pop gone after the Mint work 😁

 

Randy

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As mentioned, it is a bit tight to get the welder in there, but it seems like a permanent fix.


I borrowed the photo and fixed the welds up a little bit. :D 

718001967_weldphotoshop.png.9ecbad6eb7403d340c6c805109f2800c.png

 

I replaced my door brakes and they still click, even though the tabs are solidly attached.  I think the hole in the tabs that the pin/bolt pivots in gets elongated over time and the slop makes the sound.  It would be tough to drill them out larger and keep the holes perpendicular to the tab.

  • Haha 1

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@'76mintgrün'02 what do you think if that tab could plug welded? Drill a small hole into A pilar sheetmetal then weld to the tab. I just don't know if weld gun nozzle will fit between two tabs.

Thanks. 

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(edited)
6 hours ago, Buckeye said:

what do you think if that tab could plug welded?

 

I am sure that could be done.  I think we even discussed that option.

 

My TIG torch has gas lens collets, so they are a bit bigger than the 'regular' ones.  

The advantage is that they require less Argon gas, due to improved/focused flow and you are also able to extend the tungsten further out of the cup.  It'd be a reach to stick it out the full depth of those tabs, but not impossible.  I guess it wouldn't be much different than the lower weld I did between the  tabs.

 

They make some really cool little TIG torches for getting into tight places.

 

A stick welder might buzz a puddle in the middle.  I don't have much practice with that type of welding though.

 

edit- thinking back, most of the difficulty had to do with being able to see the puddle with the torch in the way.  

Edited by '76mintgrün'02

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