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Tim of Capitola

How to adjust doors

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I installed new door seals and I need to adjust the doors as they are now standing proud. I tried moving the striker latch but that didn't help.  Ideas?

 

Cheers

Tim in Capitola

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Me too! While you're at it, my windows don't go up as far as they need to either. Suggestions?

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I'm interested in this as well - would be fantastic if someone who has this figured out were to video demonstrating how to - I find sometimes a visual depiction for this sort of thing is much easier to understand. 

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You loosen the striker on the body- all 4 large cross- head screws,

and then move it.  In and out are the 2 options at the striker-

it should be allowed to latch completely while not touching 

the tapered guides vertically.

  I know, it looks like it COULD touch, but it SHOULDN'T.

 

If it needs to go up or down, then the door should

be loosened at the hinges (panel has to come off for this)

and adjusted.  Trying to lift the door with the striker will work, for a while,

but the striker and latch will wear out relatively quickly.  And the door

will be hard to close.  It's designed that way to let you close the door

while the car's on unlevel ground, or jacked up.  Don't believe me?

Try it...

 

The 'from scratch' method if the front fender is on,

 is to hang the door without seals.

Then align the front edge for depth and height,

while keeping the bottom parallel to the rocker.

THEN you start your compromise to get the rear at the right height

and angle and gap depth, trying not to mess up the good work you've

already done to the front.  

When it's PERFECT (which often involves cutting, welding, grinding, lots of

swearing, refitting the front fender, cutting and warping the door, 

hitting it with mallets, more swearing, and remounting the hood and grilles,

then you put in seals,

and go through it all over again, because almost all of the seals these

days are too bulky.

 

If the front fender's off... meh, too many words!

 

t

not video enabled.

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you need new kernals 

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FOUND 11 RESULTS

  1. Dudeland

    body and interiorMy damn doors...

    Dudeland replied to arminyack's topic in BMW 2002 General Discussion

    The cornkernals and the gromits that go in the ends of the push rods for the door opener, and one for the lock. Take out the door latch, clean it lube it and put it back in. It will be as good as new. You will need 3 per door https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/52208238999.htm?pn=52-20-8-238-999...
  2. 2002Scoob

    body and interiorMy damn doors...

    2002Scoob replied to arminyack's topic in BMW 2002 General Discussion

    My corn-kernals slipped right on, easy-peasy.
  3. ...Long story short - i bought new 'kernals' for the door latch to help with difficulties closing the door. I figured why not clean the entire door latch assembly after years of grease and grime. No problem removing the receiver and it's 4 screws (1 larger and 3 smaller). When I went to reinstall, I l...
  4. mataku527

    Can't close my door! - solved

    mataku527 replied to mataku527's topic in BMW 2002 General Discussion

    should I be able to get these grommets as well as new cornkernals at any BMW dealership?
  5. And we learned recently via the FAQ that thosekernals have a fat side and a skinny side. Have to put them in the right way for them to work the best. Details, details. Scott
  6. peterschop

    body and interiorDoor Striker

    peterschop replied to tucsondude's topic in BMW 2002 General Discussion

    +1 on the latchkernals. Your BMW dealer should have them. As far as the jack stands, I like to put a piece of wood on top of the stand to protect the frame rail and help distribute the weight.
  7. dbmw2002

    body and interiorDoor Striker

    dbmw2002 replied to tucsondude's topic in BMW 2002 General Discussion

    ...The latchkernals are a must, door wont thunk without them, check your opening rod mechanisms from interior door handles to latch, they should have plastic grommets to settle the rattles when shutting doors, rogerstii has those too

  8.  
  9. SteveJ

    Passenger Door Latch

    SteveJ replied to Tangarine-Dream's topic in BMW 2002 General Discussion

    ...verify that you have the cornkernals(puffers) on the door catch. Do the adjustment with the door window down. Be sure to gently close the door a few times afterwards with the glass up while you check for any interference.

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3 hours ago, NYNick said:

Me too! While you're at it, my windows don't go up as far as they need to either. Suggestions?

There's a stop bracket on the window lift mechanism--it's bolted to the rear guide--that's the metal piece that's fastened to the glass at the rear.  On the guide is an L-shaped piece of metal that has slotted mounts.  When you raise the window, that bracket engages a horizontal piece that's welded to the door near the top.  When the two touch, the window won't go up any further.  Adjusting the bracket downward will allow the window glass to go up further--just be careful and don't let it go up too high or it'll hit the rain gutter--and possibly shatter.

 

mike

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7 hours ago, Tim of Capitola said:

 I tried moving the striker latch but that didn't help.  Ideas?

 

 

P1020667.JPG

 

That bottom pic is how my door looks when it isn't latched all the way. This happens more frequently when the windows are closed. Are you sure the issue isn't the thickness/firmness of the new gasket? Are the gaskets OE BMW or aftermarket/"OEM"?

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From your picture, I think it is because you don't have the plastic part on the latch itself. It takes up about a coupla mm and is the first thing to do before you go to all the trouble of an adjustment. Might be a good time to replace the wedge shaped buffer too.

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(edited)
11 minutes ago, Einspritz said:

the plastic part on the latch itself

 

AKA the kernal   part number   51 21 1 809 735

Edited by '76mintgrün'02

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Funny how lack of a $4 part can cause so much grief.  The missing kernel will almost always cause an unlatched door occurrence.  Slamming the door works sometimes.  The curse of so many 02 owners.

 

The A/M door seals are another frustration.  Too fat.  Too stiff.  Has anyone figured out how to force them to work?  Surgery?  

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7 minutes ago, PaulTWinterton said:

Has anyone figured out how to force them to work?  Surgery?  

 

 

@jrhone went at his with a disc sander, I believe.  Perhaps he will chime in.  I don't recall how it worked out.

 

8 minutes ago, PaulTWinterton said:

Funny how lack of a $4 part can cause so much grief. 

 

$1.69 each! for genuine BMW, (through ECS tuning (Ray's favorite ; ) )

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Just now, '76mintgrün'02 said:

$1.69 each! for genuine BMW,

 

If you live in America. 4 bucks in Canada. 😢   

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21 hours ago, mike said:

There's a stop bracket on the window lift mechanism--it's bolted to the rear guide--that's the metal piece that's fastened to the glass at the rear.  On the guide is an L-shaped piece of metal that has slotted mounts.  When you raise the window, that bracket engages a horizontal piece that's welded to the door near the top.  When the two touch, the window won't go up any further.  Adjusting the bracket downward will allow the window glass to go up further--just be careful and don't let it go up too high or it'll hit the rain gutter--and possibly shatter.

 

mike

Thanks Mike. Between you and the Tech Article, the windows are looking good. 

Now, if I could only get my hood sorted. ; {

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