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Spal radiator fan installation with speed control (longish)


Healey3000

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Thanks!

 

I used a PIC 16F18324 for this.  If there is interest in this controller, I think it should be changed to be more packaging-friendly,  I've done a PCB layout for an 8-pin Ampseal header and the board fits completely within the footprint of that connector.  This would allow for a small, sealed module that can be placed just about anywhere.

 

The over-temp warning can be dispensed with because there is a temp gauge in the car anyway.  If there are other features that should be considered, they can be folded in as well.  It all depends on the level of interest and the volume.

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Wow!  I thought that was a purchased product (surface mount components, silk screening, etc)  Very nice end result!

 

I was planning on doing a micro controller based dash board based on CANBUS data pulled from the Megasquirt, using Arduino type products (build a purpose built board, or one of the offshore nano/mini boards).  Cooling control could be added based on coolant temp that MegaSquirt returns over CANBUS (I'm assuming that's one of the canbus data points on a Megasquirt).  I haven't written C code in a bunch of years, so I stick with the Arduino stuff for the simplicity of the language, availability of libraries (most of which are C, I think) and the large amount of info available on the interwebs.

 

Now you've got me thinking :)

 

Let me know what you think a packaged version would be worth.  Keeping cooling on separate hardware from a dash program isn't the worst thing in the world.  Bad code on my part could keep the cooling routines from running and overheat an engine, or set a value rather than compare (== vs =) and overheat an engine. 

 

I'd rather have something made by someone who knows what they're doing taking care of something important as cooling fan control.

 

Thanks for the write up!

 

Allan

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19 minutes ago, uai said:

Hi, do you know whether the Ford / Mercedes Part would work correctly if the input signal would be 20 kHz too?
Thanks

Uli

Hi,

 

The module needs a 100 Hz input, +/- something.  I did fiddle around with the input frequency but don't recall when it drops out.  In any case, if you do have an ECU to drive it, those often have trouble getting to 20 kHz on the PWM output.

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Hi,

 

Actually, I messed up a little on that silkscreen in the lower left corner, if you notice :D.  I prefer SMD components as it makes things more compact and also more reliable.

 

As for making a module, I think the biggest question we need to answer is the packaging.  Using a PCB that just has solder points for wires would allow the user to have a pigtail with the connector of their choice.  Since these lines carry minimal current, you don't need much.  If you can find a nice enclosure to put it in, you could potentially seal it and place it underhood.   If you are okay with mounting the board in the cabin, the pigtail approach also works.

 

The other approach is to use a board mounted header.  The Ampseal connector is around $7 but you also need the mate, so the costs add up.

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Sorry me again with a perhaps dumb question. Can I use them as a Solid State relay with added slow up / down functionality with a PW of 100% (read no pulse at all).

Here In germany the A-Klasse Parts are like 4-5€ used so why bother with a relay?

Thanks

Uli

 

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