steering box

[Markster]

On 2/8/2020 at 8:24 AM, Einspritz said:

It is best to press it out, as you can't just pound it out with a hammer. A cradle made with the proper angle is what you need to make. The "axle" is heat treated / hardened so you can't grind it.

 

They all have the "bluing" from some heat source.

 

See my previous posts if you want to upgrade the shaft bushings.

 

HTH

OK now....

 

 Here is what I have -  ?.  ( I am having fun here - I love this community) 

 

I have a 2500 lb manual arbor press and that did not do much but move it a tiny bit enough for me to observe hey wait a minute that follower axel is rotating.  Therefore the hardened steel pin is not a press out, not tapered either.  The pin is somehow forged on the ends.  never seen this before.  But perhaps standard practice in something as important as a steering box follower.  How did they do this in Germany?  If they flanged it in situ how come the shaft did not deform while getting pressed?  So odd to me.  

 

So after a night's sleep and some patience and much consternation and even a google how to I drill hardened steel - I had two choices - a die grinder and cut the follower right through the middle (sloppy at best) or according some blog I found I could use a masonry bit!  So I employed the masonry bit.   First 3/16, some remnant dust from my recent masonry work at the house - ? and it was a wow moment - it worked.  Then 1/4 or so and finally a 3/8 bit and then a couple whacks with a punch and the pin started to deform a bit and slide through. 

 

 

Now the fun begins with the kit.  First issue the bushings are undersized in ID.  It will need a line bore/ream - I do not have one of those!  

 

Second is the washers and follower are too thick by a few thousands (1.036) vs what I pulled out of the cadaver @ 1.020 - so I will use the old washers but still need to figure out how I am going to remove a few thousandths on the new follower so the follower will fit into the yoke.  And NO I do not have surface grinder and I am not a machinist - I sell vacuum pumps for industry.  ?

 

Next issue is how in lord am I going to flange out the axel to the follower so it does not come loose?  This is more of a difficult one.  Tig weld it with a couple tack welds?  any ideas?  

 

And perhaps the OE bushings ?  anyone have a source for them? @Einspritz 

 

Maybe a line bore and we are good to go.  Probably the right thing anyway.  

 

But that axel question is a doozy.  Need help here.  Love to hear some history on that design...

 

Edited February 10, 2020 by Markster
added the axel pics - cadaver and new from CHS...

[mac]

I think you should have "left it well enough alone" and simply sourced another  main shaft/roller. 

Contrary to what a lot of DIYer think, the ZF engineers really do know what they are doing. 

 

But what do I know. 

 

Mac. 

[Markster]

56 minutes ago, mac said:

I think you should have "left it well enough alone" and simply sourced another  main shaft/roller. 

Contrary to what a lot of DIYer think, the ZF engineers really do know what they are doing. 

 

But what do I know. 

 

Mac. 

indeed.  I wonder if I kept the follower and just replaced the worm would it be as good as new?  Been fun.  Not for the cadaver tho...  Lots to learn.  have fun.

 

[Einspritz]

You need to use the NEW washers.

[Markster]

3 hours ago, Einspritz said:

You need to use the NEW washers.

That's fine - will need to use surface grinder.  But how will I peen the axel on both ends?  I am thinking there is not a way to do that.  Unless I use a flux capacitor and inductively compress each end like they do in muffler bearings...  We are just in the wrong year...

?

 

Edited February 10, 2020 by Markster

[Markster]

On 2/9/2020 at 10:41 PM, Markster said:

That's fine - will need to use surface grinder.  But how will I peen the axel on both ends?  I am thinking there is not a way to do that.  Unless I use a flux capacitor and inductively compress each end like they do in muffler bearings...  We are just in the wrong year...

?

 

 

Well folks I guess this is a wrap. 

 

No comments on how to fix the follower...

 

Therefore the Argentinian Kit above is really not such an easy task if you do not have a means to remove the follower axle and install the new axle and follower gear. 

 

Since this is a major safety issue I am going to side with Mac. 

 

Leave the old follower and axle pressed in...Do not remove it because we have no way to install new and secure the new axle - unless you have a forge machine... 

 

I will give it a go just replacing the worm gear, races and ball bearings and see how the cadaver feels.  Gut tells me it will be fine.  My hope is it is smooth and the wheel returns to center.  We will feel that in a test drive.   

 

If someone wants a follower, spacers, axle and most likely I will not use the bushings either - PM me and we can brainstorm your fix and make it worth while.  I can even give you the cadaver if you want to give it a try and become famous!  Heck maybe just weld the axle in and we are good to go...

[Einspritz]

You are right, refurbishing the ZF boxes properly is not an easy task, and takes quite a few hours to do, in all; you need special tools, process, and specifications notwithstanding.

 

CHS told me yesterday that they include instructions for full installation.

 

Didn't they include that with your kit?

 

They reiterated that (which I already new) the bushings are oversized and need to be honed / lapped to fit the shaft. Since I have already made better bushings, I don't need the OE style. My cost to hone to specification, for example, is $100.00 per box, plus travel and time.

 

PM me about the parts you don't want..................

 

As an aside, now you know why those Ebay "rebuilt" boxes really aren't, save for the seals.

[mac]

Let me see if I can't find a good replacement mainshaft/roller for you in my stash. 

Stay tuned........

 

Mac. 

 

got lots of snow to shovel first.

[Dudeland]

I haven’t passed through the entire thread, but don’t the people that make it have an idea as to how to put the parts in? 

[RFord888]

I am organizing a "group buy" of the steering box rebuild kit complete with shims. This is the same box I purchased two years ago directly from the manufacturer. At the time, with shipping and foreign wire transfer fees, my cost was $450. The manufacturer is offering a discount of over 20% if I order 10. Combined with a bulk shipping rate and foreign wire fees spread over 10 units, I can offer each kit for $325 plus shipping to your locale. In case you are unaware, a well known supplier sells the same kit for over twice that price. 

 

Already have firm orders for 6, and possibly 7, from Chicago 02ers -  mechanics and enthusiasts. I'm only looking to get to 10 as I don't want to be in the business but will entertain a few more orders. (Offering to this thread first hoping to satisfy the 10 kit min. before going out to the community at large with true group buy.)

 

Manufacturer tells me it will take 7-10 days to complete the order once placed. Conservatively, it will take a month to get the kits in your hands (Clearly faster if you can pick it up in Chicago) 

 

Let me know as I'd like to get this going while driving season is still in full swing.

 

Rich

[Harvanj]

Thanks Rich, I would be in for a kit at $325.

 

JH

[RFord888]

Sure thing. Details to follow. 

 

Think we are getting to 10 with no sweat!

[Einspritz]

I was going to order many units from Ricardo with the same discount, but when he required that I send my bank account info AND my tax ID number (Social Security)  "for the shipper". I let it go.

 

turns out that neither my bank, the Argentinian nor US embassies knew of this requirement for wire transfers.

 

I bought  3 from W&N at their intro price, so your offering is a good buy for those who want them.....in fact, rebuilding one now.

[RFord888]

The foreign wire is a pain. 

 

Sorry I didn't do this sooner.

[halboyles]

Please include me for one kit.