Jump to content
Captain Manly

320 Hub Bearings Replacement

7 posts / 378 viewsLast Reply

Recommended Posts

So last month my right front hub bearings gave out which will necessitate new set.  

 

I have never replace these before especially the big brake kit.  Apart from drowning the new bearing with lithium grease (Mobil). What are the steps in removing the old bearings and installing new ones?

 

Will they require a hydraulic press or any other specialty tools?

 

Is there a sequence on order or part install?

 

Any guidance would be appreciated.

 

Justin  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
(edited)

A brass punch is usually enough, to drive the races back in.  I use a steel one to drive

the old races out, and brass for reinstallation.

 

The 2002 is the same as any RWD 'Murrikan car, so you can use 

anything on YooToob or generic ''HowToo' guides for RWD's-

 

EXCEPT

 

you don't preload the bearings.  Just barely tight enough so 

they don't have free play in them, and if you have to guess one

way or the other, go loose, and then recheck in 500 miles.

ANY preload will shorten the life of the bearings.

Use a lotta grease in the hub itself- it likes to have a reserve up there.

 

hth

 

t

 

Edited by TobyB
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I use a brass drift and place it in the notches on each side of the hub where the back side of the race is visible.

 

For installation, I use the (Lisle brand) bearing race installer, which is aluminum. But I use it a lot, so it justifies the cost. You can use a piece of flat steel / aluminum / wood to install the seal.

 

Grease is specified at a 500 Deg. F drop point with 35 g for the bearing, 20 g in the dust cap, 50 g in the area between. I now use a polyurea base grease rather than lithium, but it probably doesn't matter. I am not a fan, however, of the Red Line product; whenever I used it the bearings failed within about 20K miles, so now to polyurea.

 

You will  have enough grease to fill the space between the rear seal (which should be flush with the hub) and the bearing, and the little lip of the seal itself.

 

If you pack too much grease in the hub space, then when you install the hub it will be pushed out as the spindle is pushed through. In all reality, that interstitial grease won't do much in my opinion as the drop point of 500 Deg.F / 260 Deg. C will rarely if ever be reached on a street car. It will just sit there and also won't be centrifuged to the outer bearings because the wheels turn less than IIRC 2000 rpm and not enough spin to force it out to the bearings.

 

You can tighten the nut until you can't use a screwdriver to move it back and forth, then back off until you can fit the cotter key through one of the axles' holes. If you are the "measuring kind" like me, the runout is 0.02-0.06 mm / 0.0008-0.0024"

 

Also, use as large a cotter key as will fit in the hole. In that way, there won't be any possibility of the nut moving.

 

After bending the ears around, peen the "head" down onto the nut to secure.

 

Go easy on the dust cap when you install it, but make sure that it is snug if you are reusing it. Too much of the big hammer just serves to dent things, and it will no longer be pretty.

 

HTH

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
(edited)

 

from the ariticles section of the faq......

i use redline grease or mobil 1 synthetic.  zero issues with either in thousands of miles of track abuse with r-comp tires.

Edited by mlytle

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Oddly, I too had trouble with CV-2 from Redline.  Both oil separation

and bearing failure with it.  I even tried 2 different tubes, just

to make sure it wasn't a fluke, or something I did wrong.

I think it's the only time I've ever had any trouble with anything from them.

Mobil 1 synthetic has been trouble free- with tii bearings, I can just reload the

bearings themselves mid- season, so I only do an annual full- clean.

 

t

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 hours ago, TobyB said:

Oddly, I too had trouble with CV-2 from Redline.  Both oil separation

and bearing failure with it.  I even tried 2 different tubes, just

to make sure it wasn't a fluke, or something I did wrong.

 

Exactly, bearings and CV joints.

 

To each their own!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.