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Wiring harness install


mjcari

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Here are a few comments on the work I did and things I learned:

 

  1. I didn't replace spade connectors on the ends of wires unless there was a mechanical problem with them.
  2. I sprayed DeoxIT D5 deoxidizing cleaner on every connection and then followed up with contact cleaner.
  3. I removed pretty much every old plastic insulator from any wire connections and then reinsulated with heat shrink tubing.  This made very nice, neat terminals everywhere.
  4. I removed 100% of the old tape from my harnesses, cleaned wiring as best I could and then retaped with Tesa cloth tape.
  5. I removed my fuse box and soaked it in vinegar as per a post I found on the FAQ site a long time ago.  Then I deox'd it and sprayed it down with cleaner.  Be careful that the contact cleaner you use doesn't melt plastic!  I had carefully marked with wire marker numbers every wire from the fuse box so it went back together well.  This is the area that paid off best when replacing plastic connection insulators with heat shrink tubing.  So much cleaner and neater now although no one will ever see it!  
  6. If you replace female spade (I call them spade but that might not be the correct nomenclature but they are the .250 wide flat tab connectors) connectors you can get the same type as used by BMW from Digikey.  Part numbers are A27584CT-ND (18-22AWG), A27587CT-ND (14-18AWG), A27590CT-ND (12-16AWG).  The crimper plier I bought is ok but not expensive.  It is item 990170 on delcity.net.   The crimper has to 'roll' the tabs that grab the bare wire and the insulated portion behind where you stripped the end.
  7. I bought all new headlight wiring harnesses and relays from Daniel Stern lighting.  Now that I have it all and having learned a lot I know I could build the harnesses myself for about half the cost but it is still worth it.  It's nice quality stuff but requires a lot of new install work.  I'll post a photo later of my new 'relay' panel in the engine compartment.
  8. I added a relay operated aux power block with fuses (six new circuits) up under my dash so I could power things later like stereo, etc.  This eliminates having to tie into existing wires as had been done ad infinitum in the past by previous owners.  All those old wounds in original wires were cleaned and reinsulated with heat shrink by me during the rehab.  You can buy a block from many sources but the one I bought was made by Painless Performance Products (part number 70107).
  9. Don't rewrap your harness until you are really sure you have figured out all the new wiring you may want to include!  I have gone back and added wires more than once to rewrapped sections of harness.  And I am not done with that yet.  Hard to foresee everything if it is your first time or if you are designing as you build like I am.

 

That's about all I can think of for now.  I am not finished reinstalling my wiring yet but I think I have learned most of my lessons.  I'll post a couple of photos later of what some of my wiring looks like now.  I knew nothing about car wiring before I started but it has become a very gratifying part of my total refurb.  I know the car will be way more reliable now than it ever could have been without all the time and effort I put into the wiring!

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This is SO helpful. Mach Schnell, you advise is very helpful. I already unwrapped, cleaned and re-rapped my harness, and I am doing the shrink wrap on the connectors now. I feel so much better about putting this back together now. THANK YOU!!!!

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  • 1 month later...

Does anyone sells a complete wiring harness?  I have a '68, six fuse car and my harness looks to have been spliced five ways to Sunday and not sure I want to deal with sorting it out.   I've done a bit of searching with no luck, have a note into W&N to see if they have an leads.   Thanks in advance!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1968 BMW 2002

1998 M Roadster

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1 hour ago, Z3M said:

Does anyone sells a complete wiring harness?  I have a '68, six fuse car and my harness looks to have been spliced five ways to Sunday and not sure I want to deal with sorting it out.   I've done a bit of searching with no luck, have a note into W&N to see if they have an leads.   Thanks in advance!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

If they did, it would be unlikely to be a 6 fuse. There was a place that specialised in  wiring harnesses based in the UK that was making them a few years ago. A good search on here will reveal their details. 

 

Apparently these guys will make one (not listed but the other cars demonstrate pricing)

 

http://www.riwire.com/

 

 

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rtheriaque wrote:

Carbs: They're necessary and barely controlled fuel leaks that sometimes match the air passing through them.

My build blog:http://www.bmw2002faq.com/blog/163-simeons-blog/

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1 hour ago, Simeon said:

 

If they did, it would be unlikely to be a 6 fuse. There was a place that specialised in  wiring harnesses based in the UK that was making them a few years ago. A good search on here will reveal their details. 

 

Apparently these guys will make one (not listed but the other cars demonstrate pricing)

 

http://www.riwire.com/

 

 

I've personally installed the Rhode Island Wiring stuff on vintage Benzes. it is of SUPERB quality...but not inexpensive. 

IMG_3378.JPG

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Paul Wegweiser

Wegweiser Classic BMW Services

Nationwide vehicle transport available

NEW WEBSITE! www.zenwrench.com

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  • 4 years later...

BMW techs had a small box very much like Pat Allen made with the male end of the plug it would allow remote cranking of the engine and tell running voltage, dwell, RPM's and a few other things

image.thumb.png.797a8b75aa51351b130e8b2f2401d09c.png

Edited by Son of Marty
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If everybody in the room is thinking the same thing, then someone is not thinking.

 

George S Patton 

Planning the Normandy Break out 1944

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That's very interesting. I was following the blue D+ wire from the alternator and voltage regulator and it seemed to originate from that plug. It seems I need to look more closely. I was planning to install a 95 Amp unit that's internally regulated. Since I am rebuilding my harness as well I was looking to see what wires I could eliminate. 
Thank you for the info. 

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1 hour ago, Rudy2002 said:

That's very interesting. I was following the blue D+ wire from the alternator and voltage regulator and it seemed to originate from that plug.

The No 8 terminal in the 9 pin diagnostic port is just a convenient place for two wires to be joined as well as the port for diagnostics.  The other blue wire goes all the way to one side of the dash idiot light.  The other side of the dash light has a wire that goes to the ignition switch.

Edited by jimk

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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Brilliant.  Long shot here....

If i am going to delete the external voltage regulator, can I remove the blue wire from the alternator 3 pin plug and attach that directly to D+ on the internally regulated alternator, and then trace back and remove all wires going the external regulator plug?

I was doing the same with my side marker lights which were removed when the shell was painted. I can trace them back directly to the fusebox.

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2 hours ago, Rudy2002 said:

planning to install a 95 Amp unit that's internally regulated.

You can ditch the external voltage regulator.

Keep the blue wire from the D+ terminal on the new alternator connected to the dash and diagnostic pin #8. Just tape (or remove) the 3-pin original plug for the old VR.

Connect the Red wire from the battery + to the alternator B+.

Be sure the body of the new alternator is WELL grounded to the block and battery. Your stock wires are now subject to 95A loads!

John

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