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Front spindles - detachable?

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Folks. I feel like the answer is no but wanted to confirm -  are the front spindles detachable from the strut housing?  Like the more modern 80s 3/5 series? See pic of where I’m thinking they may be detachable (red arrow). Thank you. 

 

EA0-FAC7-C-C38-A-490-D-87-BC-04-EDAF05-B
DEAB07-E7-C793-4-FFD-9-DC9-B41-DD092-CDD

 

Edited by cxzsaq

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picture is not working?   Do you mean a detachable hub/bearing assembly like an e46+(and every new car on the road)?

 

I am making a billet version(not for sale).

 

 

 

 

Edited by evil02

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Thanks all. Too bad. Really don’t want to grind/cut it. Happy Holidays!!!

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Quote

Front spindles - detachable?

 

 

got lathe?

 

t

 

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39 minutes ago, TobyB said:

 

 

got lathe?

 

t

 

hahaha. i see where you are going with this. sooo tempting. i totally dont want to buy $2k setup from BC or Ground Control.

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Yeah, the stock tube is just too small for a really good damper...

 

t

 

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It doesn't help that most of these cars have heavier wheel and tire and packages than the car was designed for. Pile on with stiffer springs or bigger brakes and it just makes matters worse. I can't think of any changes that would necessitate less damping rather than more. Heck, by today's standards, even with stock 13s the cars are a little under-sprung and under-damped.

 

Does anyone make a complete strut assembly that either contains or accepts good dampers? It seems like a lot of those products are geared towards customers who are going for a particular look at the expense of function rather than improved function with stock appearance. What's roll center? ?

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 I tried making a front spindle setup out of other makes front uprights and there are a lot of challenges to overcome.  The main issue is not many use a modern day hub with 4 x 100 bolt pattern.

 

 I made one in billet instead. This is an early  concept drawing with 90% real dimensions. I need a few days to finish it with discs and calipers.. It is a true "bolt on " bearing assembly.

Upright assembly.JPG

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If you maintain a stock tire diameter your roll center is not effected by ride height. Right?  And a lower center of gravity is good? Provided you don't gobble up all of your suspension travel. But to your notion that coil over kits are marketed as appearance products.. I have to agree, although they don't have to be used this way. 
I once noodled on the possibilities of lowering the body over the stock suspension.. extending the strut top mounts, shock top mounts and altering the floor pan for the rear sub frame.. but then hit a wall at the front sub-frame and realized it was all a bad train of thought. 

Image result for roll center

Edited by eurotrash

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I am raising all my points by 2".  It is not that much work and if it is worth it is the real question. Since I never do anything without pain and suffering, I chose to do it, lol..

 

 I can do more but with the right shock/strut lengths, I can easily lower the whole car to about 5" from the rocker to the ground without any crazy suspension issues or loss of travel. I am running 15" wheels and keeping the tire OD close to stock(within 1" or so). Also, high spring rates and carefully measured bump stops.

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5 hours ago, eurotrash said:

If you maintain a stock tire diameter your roll center is not effected by ride height. Right?  
 

 

Nope. It may be true on some designs but not on a typical Mac strut car.

 

5 hours ago, eurotrash said:

And a lower center of gravity is good? Provided you don't gobble up all of your suspension travel.
 

 

Not at the expense of roll center geometry, if you actually care about handling and suspension geometry/function. People love to rationalize that lowering their car equates to better handling using the center of gravity argument. If only the stupid engineers who designed the car understood gravity, think how much better the cars would handle from the factory! ?

 

Look at this

 

https://whitelineperformance.com/blogs/whiteline-blog/what-is-roll-centre-and-how-does-ride-height-affect-it

 

Gains can be had by using stiffer springs, presuming the height reduction is minimal/reasonable, trading maximum travel for better handling within the parameters of design.

 

Think of how much your car might sag with stock springs once it has two occupants. A stiffer spring might sag less and be slightly shorter so that ride height while operating the car isn't appreciably different than with the stock springs. That's so there isn't a significant net change in where the suspension is operating, and that's why a typical OE "sport" springs tend to lower a car only a small amount.

 

Where it goes wrong is when the reduced body roll in this scenario from stiffer springs gets attributed to the reduced static height rather than the springs. Then the next stage of misunderstanding is that if two's good, five's better, dropping it to the ground will make it have all the handling.

 

Without going into damping, which is absolutely valuable, the point of coilovers (for handling) is to corner balance the car precisely. It's not about aesthetics. If someone wants to use them that way that's their business, but products developed specifically for that purpose are of little interest to me.

 

Cheers,

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On 12/19/2018 at 10:32 PM, TobyB said:

 

 

got lathe?

 

t

 

 

That's it.

No lathe- no score.

If I'm allowed to downjack.

It's decades ago that someone told me that he managed to lathe off the welding seam at the very lower end of the assembly between tube and hub base. He did this because of a rusted spring plate that he replaced by a non-tii tube including plate.

Have fun. Oh, and you'l need a hydraulic press to get the tube out.

hen

 

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