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SoKvlt

Engine modification help.

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Hey so I had some ideas to try to bump the power up a bit, not looking for a race car but looking for it to be a *more* fun canyon/mountain car but just wanted your opinions and insight into what I could be overlooking as far as extra work I would have to do with these upgrades. This is what I was thinking about doing along with upgrading my suspension set up.

 

Schrick 292 camshaft

New OEM rocker arms

Vac valve springs

Vac valve guides 

Vac Performance valve kit

*New exhaust tbd*

 

I won't be in the position to do any work until the spring, it's way too cold to be in an unheated garage right now. So I just want opinions as to what you guys would do differently or wouldn't bother doing. As well I'm still trying to sort out what my best exhaust options are. 

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Depends on machine shop but you may not necessarily need new valve guides. Seals for sure. 

 

I would do some higher compression pistons as well to round things out a bit. Between 9.5:1 - 10:1 or even a little more depending on what gas you can/want to run. 

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Quote

Schrick 292 camshaft

New OEM rocker arms

 

you can stop here.  The factory springs are fine, unless you want to rev over 6800,

which, with a factory intake or exhaust, really isn't worth the effort.

 

But you don't mention what the rest of your car is, (intake, ti, tii, etc) so beyond that,

 

I say,

 

go Megasquirt

and Turrrbooooo.....

 

t

no half- measures.

 

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1 hour ago, TobyB said:

 

you can stop here.  The factory springs are fine, unless you want to rev over 6800,

which, with a factory intake or exhaust, really isn't worth the effort.

 

But you don't mention what the rest of your car is, (intake, ti, tii, etc) so beyond that,

 

I say,

 

go Megasquirt

and Turrrbooooo.....

 

t

no half- measures.

 

 

currently:

 

Stock intake, Still looking into what exhaust system I was going to go with. The car is a 72' base   

 

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If you're gonna get the full benefit from a 292 cam, you'll need a 38/38 Weber, or a 32/36 with a modified linkage to allow the second barrel to open simultaneously with the primary (i.e. a Sync-Link).  Personally I'm happy with my 284 Schrick, 9.5 pistons and matched intake ports, which adds mid-range torque--better for daily driving.

 

mike

Edited by mike
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3 minutes ago, mike said:

If you're gonna get the full benefit from a 292 cam, you'll need a 38/38 Weber, or a 32/36 with a modified linkage to allow the second barrel to open simultaneously with the primary (i.e. a Sync-Link).  Personally I'm happy with my 284 Schrick, 9.5 pistons and matched intake ports, which adds mid-range torque--better for daily driving.

 

mike

 

Is there a dyno library on the site for M10 cams and other mods?

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1 hour ago, Jimmy said:

 

Is there a dyno library on the site for M10 cams and other mods?

 

There isn’t but it is probably a good idea. Maybe someone started a ‘show us your dyno graph’ thread?

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To the OP: adding a 292 to a stock engine will bring some benefits but you really need to look at a bump in compression ratio and improved intake (38/38 or side drafts) to get the most from it.

 

Rebuild your head with the new cam and valve gear. You can then save your pennies and get the bottom end rebuilt with some higher compression pistons. 

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Yup.  Cant just slap a cam on the car and keep all else stock amd expect a big bump in performance.  Its all a package.  Cam will allow the valves to open so you can get more air and fuel in and more exhaust out for bigger bangs in the cylinders.  But you wont have the intake or exhaust for bigger bangs.  Higher compression pistons will also help.  Also look into a lighter flywheel for better response and leas rotational mass on the engine.  Then maybe an electric fan as well.  You see it can add up and there is always something else.  Oh and what about spark?  More air and fuel would like hotter spark as well so look at the ignition system.  123Tune distributor at the least but even as far as distributorless systems as well.  

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The 32/36 with a bigger exhaust after the 2-1 collector is enough to see real gains from a 292 in a stock engine.

That 32+36 with both throttles open is BIGGER in flow terms than a 34mm choke in a DCOE.  The intake manifold

stock is pretty good, the head with stock valves breathes just fine- at this level-

and likewise, the exhaust and collector (the 2 into 1) is also no slouch.

After that, the stock exhaust IS a limitation.  I haven't played around much with alternatives-

just went right to 2 1/2", since I had the tubing, and that is probably too big.   But worked great at higher rpm.

 

The stock ignition is fine for this level of performance. 

 

It's all a rabbit hole- how far do you want to go?  Sticking to a 292 keeps you close to the surface,

but gives a nice bump over stock, especially at higher rpms.

 

t

 

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2 hours ago, TobyB said:

The 32/36 with a bigger exhaust after the 2-1 collector is enough to see real gains from a 292 in a stock engine.

That 32+36 with both throttles open is BIGGER in flow terms than a 34mm choke in a DCOE.  The intake manifold

stock is pretty good, the head with stock valves breathes just fine- at this level-

and likewise, the exhaust and collector (the 2 into 1) is also no slouch.

After that, the stock exhaust IS a limitation.  I haven't played around much with alternatives-

just went right to 2 1/2", since I had the tubing, and that is probably too big.   But worked great at higher rpm.

 

The stock ignition is fine for this level of performance. 

 

It's all a rabbit hole- how far do you want to go?  Sticking to a 292 keeps you close to the surface,

but gives a nice bump over stock, especially at higher rpms.

 

t

 

I just want a slight bump in power, so I'm not looking to go too deep down the rabbit hole with the M10. I have so many beautiful, winding mountain drives right at my doorstep here and I don't think the 2002 needs much to make it that much better for them. I'm ordering the stage 2 ie spring and sway bar kit as well as some blistein sport shocks to help in the corners. So I'm just looking for a modest increase to help give it a little more pep in it's step.  I'm the kind of person who would rather drive a slow car fast, not drive a fast car slowly.

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Question for the guru's.

If he is looking for a little more grunt at the lower end and midrange, and keeping most everything else stock, wouldn't a 284 cam be a good option? 

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^It's ok, but almost like taking one step up the stairs and deciding …. "that's good enough for me."

 

@SoKvlt Here's a road map, this question comes up ALOT.  This guide is a basic checklist of parts that work well together.  Call it the STAGE 1 Street HotRod Combo (sparkle! bang! fizz! weee! wooowwww….).  It would work well with the 123 dizzy. 

 

https://adamsautosport.com/information/tutorials/bmw-m10-street-hotrod-engine-checklist/

 

The dual valve springs you list are NOT a good idea for this style engine, it's pressures are great on a high-revving race car, but in turn it's pressures would accelerate the rate at which the engine wears down (namely decreased cam life, rocker stress).  The valve guides are fancy, you don't need fancy.  Anyway, don't order guides until AFTER your machinists tells you what size he needs (and he'll likely have a source that works anyways).

 

The next step up from there (STAGE 2 Street HotRod Combo, if you will), in terms of harmonizing parts, would be 144mm rods, matching 4032-alloy pistons, 300deg. cam, IE dual valve springs (still more street friendly than VAC's spring pressures), and Weber 45's.  It would go well with a wasted-spark programmable ignition like "No-Diz".

 

Also among the tutorials I have a "Cylinder Head Rebuild DIY" for first timers (or guys who want a refresher).

 

Hope that helps you out a bit.  Best of luck!

-Andrew Adams

 

Edited by AceAndrew
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So since we're on the topic... I have an e21 head that came with a schrick 292 and a Stahl header. I want to put put them on the o2 but had a couple questions. First, is there any added gains from the e21 head? I bought new HD valve springs, chromoly retianers and rocker locks. I will never track the car and don't anticipate redlining it very often if at all so planned to reuse stock rocker arms as long as the show no defects. Whether I keep the cam in the e21 head or use my current 2002 head I will have have a trusted machine shop service the head and install the new parts. I plan to port match the intake & exhaust ports.
Second question, the header I have seems a little under sized, possibly even restricting. The 4 tubes that come off the head are 1.25" od and the main tube is 1.75" od. Is that to small to be an upgrade?
BTW, I already have the 38/38 and plan to do petronix.
Thanks in advance 69cb0f76c5922496211853233dc18725.jpg2db12e6cd08b49bbde87e609b88f68ce.jpg

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

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