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Posted
5 hours ago, Henning said:

Seems to me that there's a nut missing.

Definitely.  There has to be a thin nut on both sides of the bracket in order for it to be adjusted properly.

BMWCCA  Member #14493

www.2002sonly.com

1086238739_Logoforsignature.png.eb1354ab9afa7c378cd15f33e4c7fbbe.png

Posted

I know the switch isn't the problem ! I was just asking if this is normal as it was a project car with many parts missing . 

And it had the wrong brake switch in place before I purchased this from Rotterdam.

 

Need a servo now , and one other thing are all the servos interchangeable as in LHD and RHD being the same . 

 

Thanks Jaime 

Plymouth 

Posted

Yes there is a nut missing because I was trying to get the most adjustment possible ,this isn't the problem ??

 

Now I know the servo is now the issue which is being pulled by the vacuum .

 

Having a nut missing won't defect the brake light . 

Posted

RHD have twin servos, so not interchangeable. Lucky for you, LHD servos are waaaay cheaper.

DSCN1866sm.JPG.1509c1ca6279e418b6a1854895b95d3d.JPG

Les

'74 '02 - Jade Touring (RHD)

'76 '02 - Delk's "Da Beater"

FAQ Member #17

Posted
18 minutes ago, Jamous said:

I know the switch isn't the problem !

 

There is an easy way to test this.  Unscrew the switch all the way back out and see if the problem persists.

I could be wrong but it appears that the switch is contacting the lever on the the booster.  Maybe it is touching just enough to activate the vacuum valve.

Here's a properly adjusted switch.  Your switch is screwed all the way in in comparison.

Brake Light Switch Adjustment.jpg

BMWCCA  Member #14493

www.2002sonly.com

1086238739_Logoforsignature.png.eb1354ab9afa7c378cd15f33e4c7fbbe.png

Posted

+1 on backing off the switch and test the brakes.

The servo has two chambers.  With nothing pushing in the input rod, vacuum is in both chambers.  When the input rod is pushed in past some point a valve opens the outer chamber and air enters and pushes against the diaphragm.  The diaphragm is connected to the output shaft that pushes on the master cylinder.

If the switch is holding the input shaft too far towards the servo, the outer chamber is getting air and the brakes will be applied all the time.

Do the no switch test.  It might save some $$ 

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

Posted

So now I can shut up!

A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

Posted
11 minutes ago, jimk said:

So now I can shut up!

 

Well I doubt that.

 

:D

 

Ray

Stop reading this! Don't you have anything better to do?? :P
Two running things. Two broken things.

 

Posted

Hey,

  a quick question. does the foot pedal assembly

have it's return spring in the bottom of the pedal

box? this may be just enough tension to keep

the pedal where it should be. i can not see

the spring below the pedal at the fulcrum point.

let us know.

stone

stone racing co

phila pa 19123

Posted
16 hours ago, stone02 said:

Hey,

  a quick question. does the foot pedal assembly

have it's return spring in the bottom of the pedal

box? this may be just enough tension to keep

the pedal where it should be. i can not see

the spring below the pedal at the fulcrum point.

let us know.

stone

 

Pic for reference:

 

3C153E5E-E2A4-4FEF-9F85-6327265C8DF2.jpe

 

If that spring is broken or missing, Jimk could still be on to something.

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