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Posted

I'm currently working on my 68 02 front and rear subframes and don't have either front or rear sway bars or stabilizers so I was going to order some from Ireland, My question is I'm not seeing stabilizer bars for sale anywhere which I also need, Do these Ireland aftermarket sway bars take the place of stabilizers, If not anybody know who sell's a beefed up stabilizer bar

Posted

There's a bar front left and right, that goes from lower control arm to front corner of subframe, One on each side, Kink of a lazy z bend, maybe 2 feet long

Posted

I think you're talking about this:

31121112883

BluntTech has them. 

They also carry Sway bars. Give them a ring. I think they have a Black Friday Sale going on tomorrow.

1974 2002 Tii-SOLD

1978 911SC Coupe

1988 Landcruiser

2020 M2 CS

Posted
24 minutes ago, NYNick said:

I think you're talking about this:

31121112883

BluntTech has them. 

They also carry Sway bars. Give them a ring. I think they have a Black Friday Sale going on tomorrow.

  That's what I need , But those all say Tii, will they work on non Tii

Posted
22 minutes ago, rcf925 said:

  That's what I need , But those all say Tii, will they work on non Tii

 

It's the same part for all '02s.

Les

'74 '02 - Jade Touring (RHD)

'76 '02 - Delk's "Da Beater"

FAQ Member #17

Posted

If you have an early '68, make sure the subframes have the tabs to hold the sway bars.  The very earliest ones didn't have sway bars from the factory, and may not have the mounting tabs.

 

And if you're adding 'em to a car with no swaybars, do some research on the size you want unless you're staying strictly stock.  02's with stock size swaybars and OEM rubber mounts tend to corner on their door handles--and can really benefit from larger bars.  Generally speaking you want a larger bar in front than in the rear, but there are other ways... Some options:

  • 19mm front, stock rear (urethane bushings front and rear)
  • 19mm front and rear, using urethane bushings in front and rubber in the rear to soften the rear bar (rubber has more compliance than urethane)
  • 22/23mm front, 19mm rear with urethane bushings all around.

Any larger than that will require some tweaking, especially at the front to make the bar fit.

 

I ran the second option for many years--worked great, then I found a 22mm front bar and did the second setup.  Even better...

 

mike

'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

Posted
4 hours ago, mike said:

If you have an early '68, make sure the subframes have the tabs to hold the sway bars.  The very earliest ones didn't have sway bars from the factory, and may not have the mounting tabs.

 

And if you're adding 'em to a car with no swaybars, do some research on the size you want unless you're staying strictly stock.  02's with stock size swaybars and OEM rubber mounts tend to corner on their door handles--and can really benefit from larger bars.  Generally speaking you want a larger bar in front than in the rear, but there are other ways... Some options:

  • 19mm front, stock rear (urethane bushings front and rear)
  • 19mm front and rear, using urethane bushings in front and rubber in the rear to soften the rear bar (rubber has more compliance than urethane)
  • 22/23mm front, 19mm rear with urethane bushings all around.

Any larger than that will require some tweaking, especially at the front to make the bar fit.

 

I ran the second option for many years--worked great, then I found a 22mm front bar and did the second setup.  Even better...

 

mike

 

 

This car started as a track build by my nephew so I already have newer subframes I'm installing front and rear with Bilstein coil overs all around, LSD 3.9 rear, 245 Gertrag, I'm basically building it for street but maybe occasionally track. Bottom end is sitting on my engine stand balanced with 9.5 compression. Head is E12 heavily ported that I have to put together with dual valve spring, .292 cam, dcoe 45 webers. Just starting with all suspension to get it to roller then go to drivetrain. I'm probably buying this week IE  22/19 mm swaybar set up. I know the front stabilizer bars are a bit weak from factory so I sourcing some of those too

Posted
9 hours ago, rcf925 said:

I'm probably buying this week IE  22/19 mm swaybar set up.

Get urethane bushings for both mounts and links--no compliance so it causes the bars to start working faster, and it won't affect the ride as they're only in play when cornering.

 

mike

'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

Posted

If you're building a track car, think first about your spring rates.

 

As the springs get stiffer, the relative effect of the sway bar diminishes, 

so while 22/19 makes a huge difference for stock springs, by the time

you're up to 300lb/inch in front, you really don't notice a bar that tiny.

 

I have the old version of the Ireland relocated bar that mounts below

the subframe- it works very well on the race car.

 

t

Tires and geometry first

springs next

dampers to suit

everything else is tuning!

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

Posted
2 minutes ago, TobyB said:

If you're building a track car, think first about your spring rates.

 

As the springs get stiffer, the relative effect of the sway bar diminishes, 

so while 22/19 makes a huge difference for stock springs, by the time

you're up to 300lb/inch in front, you really don't notice a bar that tiny.

 

I have the old version of the Ireland relocated bar that mounts below

the subframe- it works very well on the race car.

 

t

Tires and geometry first

springs next

dampers to suit

everything else is tuning!

 

Does the relocated bar need any fab work on subframe to mount?

Posted

Nope- bolts to the subframe mounts, and has its own brackets.

 

t

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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