jerryasi

defrost nozzle repair

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My defrost nozzles have broken fastening tabs, are they important? I could use JB Weld 2 part adhesive but the plastic is seems past its "use by date". My body is on a rotisserie at the bodymans shop and I'm sending the dash of to just dashes but it seemed those nozzles where a tight fit through the dash and may be fine without the attachment points. I've got a ton of questions . . . this just a good place to start.

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I would weld the tabs back on, using a 20 watt soldering iron and a little weed eater line as filler rod.

I have some light grun translucent line that works way better than the red stuff I tried.

 

This was a munched lawn mower grille that is now back in service.  I just welded the back, so in front there is just a little crack.  More filler is more stronger and since it doesn't show, it more's kinda better.

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The flattened tip works well, but round might too.  Once hot, you can melt a little filler against the tip, plunge it into the crack a bit and sweep the melted filler into the hole.  Repeat and move along making a bead behind you.  It is pretty neat how you can actually stir the two plastics together, to some extent.

 

This tab busted off so it was indexed with the drill and a few tack welds made by plunging the tip.  

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Thenabunchafiller.

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not that pretty, but pretty darned strong

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The Miata's air intake scoop plastic was shattered, so I did the same thing to it; welding only on the backside. 

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The missing piece was cut out of a black battery box and blends just fine, for where it lives.

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Check out a product called " Plastex "     Eastwood carries it.  It comes in 3 colors, black, white or clear.  Perfect for what you want to do. Comes with a Plasticine type of material that you use for a mold and you mix the powder and liquid. I have used it lots of times to repair broken clips, corners, edges and pretty much anything plastic.  Use the Plasticine to copy what ever you want to make, use that to blend in and fix the broken part.      

 

Thanks, Rick 

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linky

https://www.eastwood.com/plastex-rigid-plastic-repair-kits.html

neat-o

 

 

The corner broke on the Miata's heater box.  

I took some photos of the repair... to share.

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Welded both sides, since neither will show

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(you bury the tip a bit, to get penetration)

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then sanded the weld off the side that gets foam stuck to it

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okay.  I'm done... but this is really fun and costs next to nuthing.

Tom

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The problem with the defrost ducts

 

(I was really hoping for a jet engine swap here- they use 'defrost nozzles')

 

is that the 2002 is a '5 year car'- it was MEANT to biodegrade.  So the 

plastics are no longer plastic.  My solution was to use a LOT of a thick epoxy

to encapsulate as much as I could.  It looks ugly, but has held up pretty well.

I think I added a bit of glass fiber over the tabs.

 

This might be something for the 3d printing squad to start drawing...

 

t

 

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Epoxy is awsum.  Pretty thick topic in itself.

 

Fiberglass cloth is useful with thin epoxies, for the thicker stuff, 'screen' seems to work better.

(this is the same mower)

First epoxied up the crack(s) .

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One key is to clean and scuff the surface(s).

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then cloth

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more epoxy

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(this is the same Miata)  the plastic top on the radiator is dying the brown death.  (Originally black)  .

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Patched a crack with Original Formula JB Weld with a strip of sheet rock fiberglass screen tape bedded inside.

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The patch has survived  (3 months), but the replacement radiator is coming in the mail today. :) 

 

Brown death is an example of plastic failing over time.  (20 years in this case)  It is fiberglass reinforced nylon, according to Ryan's interpretation of the 'code' printed on it.  

 

I prefer the brass top on the 2002.

Glued on with good old lead solder.

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