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what to do with an anemic 2002 auto


Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

Here is the thing, the stock carb (don't know what it is) is just about dead. Only the primary barrel is working. As you may have guessed, the combanation of a auto tranny and a half-a-carb spells S-L-O-W.

What can I do to fix this 2002 anemia? Would a new carb help, or should I just rebuild the one I've got? This thing is supposed to make 98 ponies, but my Porsche 914 made 98hp and it makes this 2002 feel completly gutless.

A five-speed manual is definatly coming soon, but with this engine, even that doesn't sound exciting. What powerful Bimmer engines can be shoe-horned into a 2002? oh, and how much does it cost to convert?

--Si

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Guest Anonymous

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rebuild the carb so it's spraying happy , and most important, adjust valves (to .00^" cold) and adjust the throttle linkage so when you depress the gas pedal slowly to the floow, look to see if the carb is at it's full open stop - MOST IMPORTANT !

NEXT , ADJUST THE TRANS CONTROL CABLE, MAKE SURE IT FREE TO MOVE AND ADJUSTED JUST TIGHT , FROM TENSION FREE.

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Guest Anonymous

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STEP 2 - CHANGE THE TRANS OIL AND CLEAN THE STRAINER, DRAIN THE TORQUE CONVERTER - SMALL ALLEN SCREW ON THE EDGE OF THE CONVERTER FOUND BY ROTATING AND LOOKING UP FROM THE BOTTOM OF THE HOUSING -

A GOOD TUNED AND PROPERLY ADJUSTED 2002 AUTOMATIC IS NOT MUCH SLOWER THAN A 4-SPEED . GET CRACKING ON THE BASICS

DON'T BE SO EAGER TO 'UPGRADE" & "MORE POWER MODS"

MOST CARS ARE SO MOLESTED AND OUT OF WACK, ALL THEY NEED IS TO BE PUT BACK TO FACTORY SPEC, AND YOUR BORN AGAIN.

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Guest Anonymous

Thanks. I have actually already done a lot of that. I've adjusted the valves, flushed the tranny juice, adjusted the carb as best I could, and cleaned everything. I didn't know that the torque converter had seperate fluid, I will do that next.

Thanks again.

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Guest Anonymous

I would be affraid to put more than 120hp on those old automatic tranies.

It remembers me the auto trany that was into my XR4TI, wich it blew when i raised the boost from 9 psi to 12 psi.

Now a Borg warner T5hd sits in...:)

Just a tougt...

Pat Allen

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Guest Anonymous

milage, the carb may be suffering from wear in the throttle shafts and the bores in the carb body that the shafts rotate in. If so, there's a better than even chance that you've got a significant vac. leak that can only be eliminated by rebushing the carb body and replacing the shafts - not a cheap process, and NOT a problem that will be corrected by a basic carb rebuild.

If this is the case and the carb is essentially worn out, replacing the original Solex with a 32/36 or 38/38 Weber is both cost-effective and a performance improvement. If you go with a Weber, by all means keep the original Solex and any related parts against any possibility that it's either desireable (or necessary for emissions) to put it back to original at some future date.

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Guest Anonymous

...and do what is required to make it right.

The 1974 2002a I am storing was not running well. We did all the basic things (tranmission service, tune-up, major service, etc.), but it still wouldn't run right. We took the air cleaner off -- a K&N on a Weber 32/36 -- to diagnose what we thought was a carb problem. Imagine our surprise when the engine ran about 400 RPM higher and a lot better. As it turns out, the air cleaner was dirty beyond belief. We cleaned it and now the car runs great. Sometimes... the process of simple steps will have tremendous results.

In fact, I usually opt to drive this car rather than the 1972 2002... the engine purrs, the transmission is silky smooth, and the car just runs the way it should. Except for the drastic need for shocks and brakes, this 74 2002a is a real joy to drive.

I invite you to re-evaluate your goals, do the "little" things to get it right, and then decide if you really want - or have to - pull the auto out.

Brian

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Guest Anonymous

the torque converter actually hold MORE fluid then what you drain from the pan, and should be done when you dranin the pan . When you refill , it takes a long time for the oil to circulate from the pan to refill the T.Q. . Patience and slow re-filling is required. after adding some fluid, sit in the car, and place the sear selector in all ranges for a few secs. and then return to the dip stick for level check. This is repeated many times till the level is just below the high mark . After the car is driven on the road and the oil has reached full operating temp , the oil should not be above the full mark. On rechecking the next morning cold, the level willbe near the low mark . = just right.

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