aussie2002

70 '02 Headlight switch help

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Hi All,

The good news the entire rebuild is going well. Drive line all complete, rebuilt engine running and sounding good, brakes all new and up to pressure, Electrics at 90% - total rewiring.

Great feeling to see the little roundie lights come to life this week.

 

However, I'm having trouble getting the headlights to activate from the switch.

The headlights work, as I can take the red power wire and connect it to yellow or white on the dip switch and all is good.

The switch activates the park lights (right and left) no problem, and earth is good on the front of the car.

When I use a probe to check the switch is supplying power, it only supplies power to 58L and 58R - at both stages.

 

I don't get a power read for any of the other other connections when switching - so you'd naturally assume the switch is No Good. However I've tried 3 switches. The one in the picture I sacrificed and pulled it apart to see if it had a problem.

No power to yellow/white (headlight) or Grey - (Dash and LP light) via fuse box (6 fuse by the way).

I think I've got the wiring correct according to the wiring diagram, however it has different numbers on the switch. Surely 3 switches cant be stuffed, they all look ok.

Also, FYI the high beam 'flash' works when park lights are on.

 

Does the switch need a seperate earth somehow?

Have I a had a massive brain fade somehow?

All lights only work when ignition is on.

 

FYI - Once I get it all working, i'll be either setting up relays for the lights - and fuses.

 

Any help would be appreciated.

 

Cheers

Aussie02

 

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Edited by aussie2002
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Does your car have wires that connect directly to the two column stalks - or does the stalk wire to a plastic connector under the dash?  I'm betting it is the former type like my 69.  I can add some details later this morning.

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Edited by jgerock
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I'm less familiar with those earlier models, but since that light switch looks the same/has the same terminals as the wiring I am familiar with, here's what I think the problem is: Terminal #15 should have a (usually green) +12V supply wire from the ignition that is hot in run only, and it's this wire that actually provides power to the main beams/relay.  This allows you to still power the parking lights (straight from the battery via the red wire) when the ignition is off, but prevents you from killing the battery REALLY fast if you forget to turn the main lights off and park/leave the car.  Here's the snippet from the '73 diagram, but it matches with your switch AND wire colors, except for the unused 58S terminal but that's fine; you do not need that either:

 

image.png.e99362133fe100fdda2447ab212558d9.png

 

And the usual plug here, if you haven't yet, please read my tech article on lights wiring and do make sure to put in proper relays!

 

Edited by AustrianVespaGuy
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@jgerock yes, its not the connector type, quite early model. The high beam stalk drawing you did is the same wiring as mine.

I don't have a hazard light. Cheers

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@AustrianVespaGuy Thanks, that makes sense - now I just need to work out if the grey wire runs off a double spade connector to power dash lights and license plate light.

 

I could see when I put the multimeter across 15 and 56 it switched, but totally contradicted the wiring diagram for a 70 '02. Perhaps as mine was a really early 02 for Australia RHD, they had to do something different.

 

When you say 'hot run' are saying when the engine is actually running? if so, the green wire comes from the ignition switch somewhere - 

Thank you very much for your help.

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Right, the 4 switch positions (I, II, III, and IV on the diagram) are park, accessory, run, and start.  The two #15 terminals get +12V only in the 'run' and 'start' positions, and have the solid (un-fused, fused wires are the striped ones!) green wires coming from them, one of which goes to the matching terminal 15 on the light switch to provide the power to the low beams when the car is 'on.'  Again, this is how it works on later models, but since you clearly have the same switch, it can certainly work the same way.

I'll reiterate though this is slightly academic, as what you really SHOULD do is put in proper low and high beam relays, instead of running all of the lighting current through the ignition and light switches.  But I guess you still need to get it basically 'working' first, and then it'll be easier to make that next step.

 

Edit: is your grey wire perhaps actually a grey wire with a white stripe? If so, then it can either go to terminal 58S or 58K to provide the power for the dash lights, but which of these two is 'correct' will depend on what wire goes to the license plate lights, a grey/white or grey/red one. . .

Edited by AustrianVespaGuy

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Thank you very much for that explanation, I can definitely now see what you are saying, i'll get onto it.

 

Yes I will definitely be setting up the relay system / fused system. As you say, I'm checking all functionality first then will do that.

 

THanks again.

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ITS ALL FIXED......thanks everyone.

 

Now onto relays......

Edited by aussie2002
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I was just going to add. Check out the wiring diagrams on the tii registry site. It looks like you are using the diagrams in the Haynes manual which may not work exactly. 

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4 hours ago, aussie2002 said:

ITS ALL FIXED......thanks everyone.

 

Now onto relays......

I highly recommend adding relays and fuses for the high and low beam circuits. These early 6 fuse cars were woefully inadequate as far as the electrical circuits.  

 

Oddly enough, my 69 has a ground screw located behind the gauge cluster (at the metal portion of the dash) but my 73 does not.  Looks like the harness was changed so the left heater box mounting stud is the new grounding location.

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