Tii calipers and valve cover

[Mike A]

Newbie here looking for more info on this 73 Tii.. What plating if any was used on the Tii calipers....yellow zinc, cad,,,??? Also I've seen all kinds of renditions on the valve cover. Mine is an original Tii with the short vent but I don't know what it would have looked like out of the factory. It is a Jan 73 factory build.  Thanks, Mike

[Conserv]

Nowadays restorers generally replate the calipers in yellow zinc (or yellow cadmium), and that’s what I do. But I believe these platings “over-do” the original shine. Not to worry, they’ll dull down quickly.

 

Valve covers were always bare aluminum castings from the factory: not shiny, not flashy.

 

Below: sales brochures for 1976 and 1975, respectively, and an original press photograph, ca. April 1971. Oh, yeah, and my ‘73.

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

Edited October 4, 2018 by Conserv

[RogerRamJet77]

Nowadays restorers generally replate the calipers in yellow zinc (or yellow cadmium), and that’s what I do. But I believe these platings “over-do” the original shine. Not to worry, they’ll dull down quickly.

 

Valve covers were always bare aluminum castings from the factory: not shiny, not flashy.

 

Below: sales brochures for 1976 and 1975, respectively, and an original press photograph, ca. April 1971. Oh, yeah, and my ‘73.

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

FYI, Cadmium is toxic so you will be hard pressed to find anyone that still plates this material, maybe a supplier to the military. The color of zinc plating is from a conversion coating that is added after plating. It used to come in 4 colors; clear (blue), yellow, olive drab and black. However, I have recently seen red.

 

 

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[Conserv]

14 minutes ago, rockyford77 said:

FYI, Cadmium is toxic so you will be hard pressed to find anyone that still plates this material, maybe a supplier to the military.

 

+1

 

That is my experience, as well, but a number of forum members report that they have found cadmium platers willing to do “hobby batches”.

 

Regards,

 

Steve

[Mike A]

….Thanks guys. FYI  you can get yellow cad from Imperial Plating in NJ 2 years ago ….it was going for $270/batch...as in nuts and bolts,etc in one box. 

Edited October 4, 2018 by Mike A

[Conserv]

On 10/4/2018 at 7:54 PM, Mike A said:

….Thanks guys. FYI  you can get yellow cad from Imperial Plating in NJ 2 years ago ….it was going for $270/batch...as in nuts and bolts,etc in one box. 

 

Ouch! That’s exactly twice what I paid at Metal Finishers of Atlanta for yellow zinc! But at least cadmium remains available.

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

Edited October 7, 2018 by Conserv

[Mike Self]

If you want to stick with original, the brake calipers were nekkid cast iron...no paint, no plating, so they developed a layer of rust on the boat coming from Germany.  You could wire brush the exterior, and clean it thoroughly with solvent, then spray with a matte finish clearcoat to keep 'em from rusting again, but I suspect the clearcoat would have to be renewed regularly due to heat buildup.  

 

The valve cover has a porous finish that's the very devil to keep clean.  Back in the day folks used Simple Green, or even judiciously applied oven cleaner to get the cover clean, but without a clear coat it would just absorb oil and dirt again.  I use carburetor cleaner to get the grunge out of the metal, but it doesn't stay nice looking for very long.  I suppose I should use a matte clearcoat on it, but I'm lazy...

 

mike

[Mike A]

 like the fuel injection lines"

On ‎10‎/‎5‎/‎2018 at 6:08 PM, mike said:

If you want to stick with original, the brake calipers were nekkid cast iron...no paint, no plating, so they developed a layer of rust on the boat coming from Germany.  You could wire brush the exterior, and clean it thoroughly with solvent, then spray with a matte finish clearcoat to keep 'em from rusting again, but I suspect the clearcoat would have to be renewed regularly due to heat buildup.  

 

The valve cover has a porous finish that's the very devil to keep clean.  Back in the day folks used Simple Green, or even judiciously applied oven cleaner to get the cover clean, but without a clear coat it would just absorb oil and dirt again.  I use carburetor cleaner to get the grunge out of the metal, but it doesn't stay nice looking for very long.  I suppose I should use a matte clearcoat on it, but I'm lazy... 

 

mike

  Have you tried Nayalic from Eastwood. I have used it on the rear cast iron calipers and aluminum hubs and all my original bare shiny steel parts like the fuel injection lines in the 911 engine ... Seems to be working fine. 

Edited October 7, 2018 by Mike A