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Timing chain tensioner


Leonel

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23 minutes ago, PaulTWinterton said:

I don't want to do just the head.

 

You could just refresh the eccentrics though :) 

 

(thinking small around here)

     DISCLAIMER 

I now disagree with some of the timing advice I have given in the past.  I misinterpreted the distributor curves in the Blue Book. 

I've switched from using ported-vacuum to manifold, with better results. 

I apologize for spreading misinformation.  

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2 hours ago, PaulTWinterton said:

 

?  .006 for intake, .008 for exhaust, right?  .006 for exhaust is too tight.  It might be quieter but that's not necessarily a good thing.

 

I've always been told that the valves should sound like a loud sewing machine.

 

On a similar topic, I can't seem to get an accurate valve adjustment.  I do a cold adjustment and a month later (because I'm hearing a louder ticking) I check the valves and a couple are either too loose or too tight.  What gives?  After my last adjustment they sound consistent again.  We'll see how they are the next time I check.

Blue book and owners manual says 0.006 to 0.008" of clearance.  I've always used the tighter spec.

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Jim Gerock

 

Riviera 69 2002 built 5/30/69 "Oscar"

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@PaulTWinterton , my old eccentrics when I had my head before the final rebuilt were pretty well worn, and out of round. Replacing them helped out a ton in the smoothness category. 

 

I set to .008, as that's just the smallest feeler gauge I've got. I've gotten pretty darn good at setting valve lash, and can run through my head in less than 10 minutes. I use a round bicycle spoke with a small 90 degree bend at the end of it, and it makes for a great little tension-bar. I found that using something rigid to adjust the eccentrics applied too inconsistent a load on the feeler gauge, whereas the spoke flex allows a level of damping/finer motor control. 

 

I'd be curious as to just how often others adjust or check their clearances. Whenever i start to notice the smoothness of my idle start to go south, the first thing I do is valves, and that seems to work. With my freshly built motor I had to adjust them at 250k, 500km, and then 1000km, and have been checking them every 1000-1500 km. It's crazy how minute tolerances and evenness across the valves makes for a smooth running motor. 

Edited by 2002Scoob
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11 hours ago, 2002Scoob said:

@PaulTWinterton , my old eccentrics when I had my head before the final rebuilt were pretty well worn, and out of round. Replacing them helped out a ton in the smoothness category. 

 

I set to .008, as that's just the smallest feeler gauge I've got. I've gotten pretty darn good at setting valve lash, and can run through my head in less than 10 minutes. I use a round bicycle spoke with a small 90 degree bend at the end of it, and it makes for a great little tension-bar. I found that using something rigid to adjust the eccentrics applied too inconsistent a load on the feeler gauge, whereas the spoke flex allows a level of damping/finer motor control. 

 

I'd be curious as to just how often others adjust or check their clearances. Whenever i start to notice the smoothness of my idle start to go south, the first thing I do is valves, and that seems to work. With my freshly built motor I had to adjust them at 250k, 500km, and then 1000km, and have been checking them every 1000-1500 km. It's crazy how minute tolerances and evenness across the valves makes for a smooth running motor. 

For weeks I've been trying to figure out my shaking engine at idle on my recently rebuilt motor... You name it I've tried it. Nothing worked. Today I ran across this post by 2002Scoob. He indicated that he adjust his valves whenever he notice his motor starting to shake at idle. I honestly thought it would be a waste of time since I set them all at .006. about 3 months ago. Boy was I wrong! What a difference it made by setting mine to .008. My car now idles better that it has since I've owned the car for 7 years now.  So I want to send a big thank you to 2002Scoob. 

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(1973 Fjord Blue 037) Vin 2588314- Build date February 6th, 1973- delivered to Hoffman Motors NYC February 8th.

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10 hours ago, ingramlee said:

For weeks I've been trying to figure out my shaking engine at idle on my recently rebuilt motor... You name it I've tried it. Nothing worked. Today I ran across this post by 2002Scoob. He indicated that he adjust his valves whenever he notice his motor starting to shake at idle. I honestly thought it would be a waste of time since I set them all at .006. about 3 months ago. Boy was I wrong! What a difference it made by setting mine to .008. My car now idles better that it has since I've owned the car for 7 years now.  So I want to send a big thank you to 2002Scoob. 

And by contrast, my tii seems to be smoother now that the valve clearances are at 0.006".  When I checked, most, if not all had 0.007-0.008" of clearance.

 

To be fair, bleeding of the TC piston may have something to do with the smoothness.

Jim Gerock

 

Riviera 69 2002 built 5/30/69 "Oscar"

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14 hours ago, ingramlee said:

For weeks I've been trying to figure out my shaking engine at idle on my recently rebuilt motor... You name it I've tried it. Nothing worked. Today I ran across this post by 2002Scoob. He indicated that he adjust his valves whenever he notice his motor starting to shake at idle. I honestly thought it would be a waste of time since I set them all at .006. about 3 months ago. Boy was I wrong! What a difference it made by setting mine to .008. My car now idles better that it has since I've owned the car for 7 years now.  So I want to send a big thank you to 2002Scoob. 

You're welcome :)

 

Especially with a fresh rebuild, there's lots in there that need to be worn into tolerance. Valves to valve-seats, Eccentrics to valve stems, rockers to cam-lobes. 

 

 I should get myself a .006 gauge and give that a try to see if it makes a difference. 

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19 hours ago, 2002Scoob said:

You're welcome

 

Especially with a fresh rebuild, there's lots in there that need to be worn into tolerance. Valves to valve-seats, Eccentrics to valve stems, rockers to cam-lobes. 

 

 I should get myself a .006 gauge and give that a try to see if it makes a difference. 

I wish I had replaced the rocker arms, shafts and hardware when I pulled the head for machining in 2007/2008.  Don't think the PO who rebuilt the car did that.

Jim Gerock

 

Riviera 69 2002 built 5/30/69 "Oscar"

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On 10/16/2018 at 2:16 PM, PaulTWinterton said:

I can tell you that the 10mm adjuster hex bolt heads have some rounded edges.

 

If the nuts have rounded edges, it may be likely that the threads of the pivot bolt are stripped to some degree.

 

Check by taking the nut off and looking at the threads; if you see little "strings" of thread, time to renew.

 

You can do that in situ, (with that cylinder at TDC) but make sure that you plug the oil holes in the head so you don't lose any parts. OK you don't actually LOSE them, they will just be in the pan for future use.

 

....And yes, the rocker cams can wear, creating small "hitches" in the valve opening curve; but with your mileage and being a street car, probably not a discernible issue.

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  • 2 years later...

I am going to jump into this thread also! I have been chasing a ‘rattle’. I have removed all mechanical rattles (e.g. loose heat shields etc) and am now looking at timing chain. The noise is a ‘tappitity’ rattle only on overrun / lift off after throttle lift off and mostly when cold (or at least noisier). I pulled the chain cover and the pics are below. I clamped the chain with  at 3 and 9 I can lift it about 2-4mm. 
any thoughts?

Thanks

Sam

A9EEFF76-F92F-40E5-AA6C-5BDB94429202.jpeg

276673FD-48B2-41DC-8EBE-8F0F686E1E89.jpeg

5FDBEEF5-4D27-4175-B0CB-6E02C62ADE69.jpeg

C36E0929-4CF5-448E-ADA1-46D1C0FF55B1.jpeg

2022 Defender 110 30th Edition

1976 BMW 2002 - Evolving...

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  • 2 years later...

I’m reviving this old thread because I’m researching this subject. 
 

I just replaced my head and saw the burping video. Am I supposed to add oil into that cavity till the tensioner is covered? There’s no oil in it now (and I didn’t drain the oil before working on the car, only coolant). Will this cavity naturally fill with oil when I replace the oil? 

2003 e39 M5 (daily)

1986 e30 325es (sons car)

1972 2002tii (fun daily alternative)

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