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Vicleonardo1

Am I caught in a Behr trap?

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(edited)

It looks like there is some issue with my blower switch on my Behr AC. My AC is going through a complete overhaul with parallel condenser, sanden compressor, hobie dave bracket etc. Apparently my blower switch has croaked. I have posted on WTB looking for a replacement. 

Beginning to think I may be up the creek. 

So, without having to scrap my overhaul which included a heater box refurb etc. 

What the hell do I do If I cannot find that goofball 4 terminal switch? 

 

Would it be possible for one of you electrically inclined individuals to create a new one? (via some electrical supply company)   It would be a help for all the other Behr owners to at least have a viable option if theirs gives out. 

 

Any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated. 

 

Cheers!

 

Vic

Edited by Vicleonardo1

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(edited)

I have a four wire switch from a 74 e9, earlier switches had three wires and a separate changeover relay which bypassed the heater blower.  In 74 this feature was incorporated into the switch itself.  I’ve never seen one with soldered wires, they had a black plastic plug for the harness.  The threaded neck will be a bit longer I believe, e9s were long and e3s were shorter.  I don’t know how good the rheostat works but it works on full speed.  One of the issues with these is the thread pitch which is extra-fine and not all rings will work.  (One of the pins is a mounting pin only). Shoot me a PM.

 

Chris

8C5394BC-D95C-45DD-A878-3232C40C8D23.jpeg

Edited by HBChris
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(edited)

Any luck with Vintage Air, or any great old A/C specialist — to find a generic replacement? These were not high-tech units. What separated the Behr’s electricals from the Frigiking’s and Clardy’s were that the Behr would not work while the heater blower was on. Maybe you just jettison that feature and use a three-wire switch.

 

Regards,

 

Steve

 

Edited by Conserv

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Ok so I am going through the same process, I don't know if my switch is good.  But I wanted a backup, so I went on ebay and got this.  I have hooked it up and it works great on the fan.  If I need it I will just use a push button switch to turn on the A/C.   Somebody will be able to tell you how the original one works. There is a resistor mounted in the case, that is all I know.  I also got a 12V temp gauge for the condenser, because I am pretty sure my temp controller is toast. 

 

Regards

 

 

 

image.thumb.png.f870ef4a0e69ff8c5ded0b69e79dd727.png

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(edited)

I have two Behr switches.  One has four posts, the other has 5 posts.  You can have either one for the price of postage.  PM me.

 

I use a PWM switch bought on-line.  The PWM switch only turns on and controls the speed of the fan.  I had to install a separate switch linking the compressor and the thermostatic switch controlling the temperature.  The Behr switch does all that in one.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HEXJUX8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

IMG_4016.JPG

Edited by Tsingtao_1903
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Perhaps this guy can rebuild yours:

 

http://www.oddparts.net/exotic-switch-repair.html

 

 

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(edited)

If you can’t find another switch, you can probably repair it yourself...what exactly is wrong with it?  Did you take a multimeter and check to see if the switch is working (to weed out an electrical problem elsewhere)?  The biggest issue I’ve seen with these is corrosion from the system not being used...usually the a/c will run out of Freon for whatever reason and then the system never gets used again, so these switches never get turned and corrosion builds up and they don’t work right.  Try cleaning the switch with electrical cleaner or drill out the four rivets and dismantle the switch, cleaning or renewing any damaged parts.  The switch is a basic rheostat so you can use parts from another rheostat to fix it.

Edited by Brandon

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Yeah I also think a generic blower switch should be able to made to work with alittle look through the wiring diagram. These are not complicated, just basic resistance circuits.

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I know I am late to the disussion, but I find I need a BEHR fan blower switch for a 1976 2002. My system works great but I need a switch. Any update on the solutions you suggested?

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Reviving this topic.

After being told by my mechanic he had sourced a switch from an E9. I later discovered that he never got it working and created a work around by placing a toggle switch on the dash (when I picked up the car). 

So my BMW dash now looks like a BMW dash with a stupid switch sticking out of it that looks like it came from a B17 bomber.  (No buddy thats not nitrous) 

Not happy. I mean extremely unhappy. 

I am still not sure if it a switch to turn on the condenser/radiator fan or what the hell it is. Somehow during this 5 year process, the dash plates for the heater controls have gone missing and I am staring at two blank holes in my dash with slider switches that cannot tell me what is going on. (Luckily replacements found on Ebay and hopefully arriving in a week).  I am in a whole new level of pissed off about many errors on this rebuild I am in a giant universe of anger that I have never experienced before, and I am finding it difficult to talk to the person(s) involved with this right now. 

 

So question. Is the Behr blower switch a potentiometer (voltage) or a rheostat (current)? and from what I can gather, a beefy potentiometer could also be used as a rheostat.

Could I use a potentiometer (many types used in guitars) with built in switch or do I try and find a rheostat to try and replace the Behr Fan/blower switch knob? 

 

I am also kicking myself for passing on some offers (after being told that I didn't need the part ) from our FAQ family to send me a replacement. 

 

Trying to gather information while I sit and stew about this. Any help would be appreciated. 

 

Thank you all.

 

Vic. 

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(edited)
3 hours ago, Vicleonardo1 said:

Is the Behr blower switch a potentiometer (voltage) or a rheostat (current)?

Someone more knowledgeable will have to chime in.  According to the circuit below (and me staring at the circuit for hours in a past episode where I had to rewire the thing), the Behr switch is likely a potentiometer.  There are five wires coming in to the switch.  Two are for the thermostatic/temperature sensing switch.  These two are what your mechanic by-passed with the toggle switch.  The other three are likely for the potentiometer to vary the voltage to the fan motor.  The rheostat needs only two. 

 

By the way, I've seen both four post and five post Behr switches.  Perhaps either rheostat or potentiometer type will work?

 

image.thumb.png.f7a7b182f1ebb36b8fd9458435fb99c7.png

Edited by Tsingtao_1903
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(edited)
3 hours ago, Vicleonardo1 said:

condenser/radiator fan

 

I ran an Override switch in addition to the Radiator Thermo switch, I wired up my unused Dash Foglight switch for a Non Obtrusive look. The Driving Lights are slaved to the High beams.

 

IMG_7665.thumb.JPG.fea32ed8f185d380ebcfb8e299b9a33a.JPG

Edited by chargin
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Checking if a Power on/volume switch (potentiometer)  would do the trick?  This is just an example.

 

https://www.amazon.com/KENMAX-Switch-Potentiometer-Kenwood-TK3107/dp/B01KJZI99E

 

It  has five posts. would this possibly power on/off the condenser-radiator fan while possibly working as a potentiometer for the blower?

 

Just would have to try and figure out the right resistance range. Or am I off base here? 

 

 

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I thought (heater) motors used combinations of wire wound resistors that were switched in and out of series with the fan motor to vary speed?

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